Electric Windlass

[The Edge]

     Since I sail single handed and broke my collar bone last year, I am seriously contemplating installing an electric windlass with a remote from the cockpit.  I know this is pricy, takes  a lot of juice and v-berth space and goes against my KISS policy.  But I think it will be a serious go/no go decision for me.

     Any anyone give me suggestions on make/model, installation tips?

[Skipper Dave]

This is not going to be much help.  You see my wife got me (us) a new Lewmar windlass two years ago for Christmas.  At that time we were in Oxnard, Ca and sailed out to the Channel Islands a lot, always on a hook.  Then we moved the boat south to Marina Del Rey and sail to Catalina where there are moorings so hench no real need for a windlass.  It is still in the box awaiting my installation.  I would offer it to you but my wife would kill me she still wants it installed.. Anyway one thing to be aware of is matching the windlass it to your size chain. Also I think it is better to install a battery in the bow (maybe under your V-berth) as a dedicated source.  They pull a lot of juice.  You will still need to connect to your alternator to keep it charged.  This generally means running wires to the back to the boat where the engine is. Too bad they are sooo expensive but they do save your back not to mention if you need to make a hastey departure.

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This morning it looked so nice out I thought I'd leave it out.

S/V "Tina Marie" Cal 2-27

[Captain Smollett]

Would a manual windlass be a useful compromise?  No hard drain on the batts, but it would require going f'rd.  The mechanical advantage should be large enough to not strain your collar bone.

[The Edge]

Captain Smollett,

     I thought about a manual windlass briefly.  I have a lot of windage with the Mac and I have a tendency to snug in too close to shore.  I hope my days of scrambling for and aft as I am about to hit something dangerous are over.  I finally got an auto helm .   That helps .  I would rather go the extra expense and loss of room below if I am going to do it.  It's a great idea but I can look hilarious .

[Zen]

Wow, I was just going to ask if there was a manual Windlass. Other than the going forward part seems like a good fill-in.

I think I'll look into that for myself....any leads?

[Jack Tar]

OK here is my take. #1 the battery need to be as close to its charging source as it can be. Amperage loss over distance would make it hard to charge if were in the bow.   Most of my rode is rope. If I need to I can pull most of it in using a winch in the cockpit.  I do have a manual windlass but seldom have had occation to actually crank it.  Yes it would be nice to control an electric windlass from the cockpit but it would require an all chain anchoring system. Otherwise who is going to keep tention on the capstan and rope. Can you keep that much chain in the bow of your McGregor ? + a battery and windlass.  Just a thought.

[Captain Smollett]

  Yes it would be nice to control an electric windlass from the cockpit but it would require an all chain anchoring system. Otherwise who is going to keep tention on the capstan and rope.

I must be missing something, but why do you need all-chain to have a windlass?  WM sells a bunch of windlasses that are for rope and chain.

As for manual windlasses listed in WM, the Anchorman Low Profile is listed for $649.99, can pull 550 lb, mechanical advantage of 5.5:1 and hauls 1.8 ft per revolution.

The electric ones draw 15-85 AMPS!!    (what battery can stand having a load of 85 AMPS? That one is listed for boats 30-45 ft, so it's not like it is for monster craft).

[Jack Tar]

All Chain ? All I know is when I use the windless with the Rope seaction of rode I have to be there at the windlass to keep tension on the capstan and rode. All chain you dont have to be up there if you dont want as the chain is captive in the dogs of the chain capstan.

[Dougcan]

OK here is my take. #1 the battery need to be as close to its charging source as it can be. Amperage loss over distance would make it hard to charge if were in the bow.

Hmm Jack, Actually you want the battery as close to the windlass as possible as the windlass amperage draw is much greater, so you want the cable run from the battery to the windlass as short as possible,

Charging doesn't take as much current so you can get away with a long charging run if you oversize the wiring a bit.  Up one size should work fine in most cases.

Also you don't really lose amperage, if anything, it prolly increase.  What is lost is voltage.  There is a voltage drop over distance.  How serious the voltage drop is depends on how much amperage is being carried and the length/size of the wiring.

[Zen]

This maybe silly but...
what about a BOAT TRAILER WINCH mounted on deck as a manual anchor winch?

[Pixie Dust]

Zen, I saw an article about one that was used for a cargo boom.   It was attached to a 1 1/2 " piece of stainless L shaped tubing, line ran to block and tackle.   Tube was attached to stern rail with hose clamps.   
I would be curious to know if they could be used for anchor winching too. Anxious to see what others think. 

[CapnK]

I know that some of you will know what it means to "sweat" a halyard, you can use the same technique to get your boat up over the hook without wearing out your arms and back.

Sweating a halyard is what you do to get it up those last few difficult inches when hoisting by hand. You get the sail up as far as possible by plain old pulling, then take a half turn around a cleat, or a turn around the halyard winch. Holding the bitter end of the halyard in one hand, grab the halyard above the cleat/winch, and pull out sharply 90 degrees from the mast. Pull in the extra halyard you gain with your bitter end hand as you ease the other hand back towards the mast. This 90 degree pull gives you a great mechanical advantage, and will get the sail up that last little bit. I can sweat my foresail up high enough that I almost don't need to use the winch.

You can do the same thing with your anchor rode, its especially easy to do if it leads over a bow roller. Take the rode aft around whatever big cleat you have on the foredeck, and then do the same with it as you would with a halyard, pulling up on the rode at a point mid way between the roller and the cleat. The mechanical advantage you gain will get the boat up to the anchor with a lot less effort than if you do a straight pull. Then just let the boat trip the anchor up, and all you have to do is hoist it aboard.

Probably everyone knows this technique already, but I thought I'd post it in case someone didn't. For them - I hope this helps.

[Zen]

New to me thanks!!

[geneWj]

First off, a electric windlass is a very important tool ..When u need to get u'r boat outta there quickly u need an electric windlass or a knife!  I use one on TPIII, First Born is a hand job..I am opposed to manual winches, because when u'r hook is out it jus takes too long to bring it up on deck and a lot can happen in that time.
I would put a chain anchor windlass on deck and run oversized
wire to it from a battery which was close to the charging location..I would put a solenoid in the system so u could handle the anchor forward if u chose to do that..My winch has both a cat head and a nigger head on it so I have options and it was expensive..
In your placer, I'd probably chose a winch which would handle 1/4" hi test chain..,..Good luck on u'r choices, the decision to use a electric winch is a sound one..
geneWj

[Garry]

This one is similar to what I use on my 36 footer (for sale BTW). The gypsy works with both rope and chain with the right kind of splice.

http://www.imtra.com/product/anchoring_systems/lofrans/lofrans_vertical_electric_windlasses/marlin_low_profile_500w/lw6903lp.htm

Don't let the list price throw you. I bought them from Imtra's Ebay site. They sell any that are returned from boatbuilders for even minor complaints. They refurbish them if needed. I got mine for less than half retail and i could not find a flaw.

[Joe Pyrat]

     Since I sail single handed and broke my collar bone last year, I am seriously contemplating installing an electric windlass with a remote from the cockpit.  I know this is pricy, takes  a lot of juice and v-berth space and goes against my KISS policy.  But I think it will be a serious go/no go decision for me.

     Any anyone give me suggestions on make/model, installation tips?

Sarah,

In order to keep the windlass from intruding on the interior of my forward cabin (V-berth area) I selected a horizontal windlass, at the time the Simpson Lawrence Horizon 500.  Simpson Lawrence is now apparently Lewmar and the current model is the 600:

(http://en.lewmar.com/products/index.aspx?lang=1&template_id=1&page_id=10&sub1=59&sub2=184). 

The main thing to  consider when selecting a windlass it the total load you will need to lift (rode/chain/anchor).  At the time the SL 500 was the ticket and available on eBay for a good price.

Here's a link to the Horizon 600 installation manual.  It's a .pdf inside a .zip file.  I thought it might help you see how things install and what is involved.

http://en.lewmar.com/support/PDF/horizon600_900.zip

If memory serves, West Marine had a good article on windlass selection in their catalog.  Also Sailnet has some good windlass articles.  Here's the link to them:

http://www.sailnet.com/search/results.cfm?criteria=windlass

[CapnK]

Good info, Garry and Joe - Thanks! I'm sure Sarah will be glad to see that when (if) she comes back...

[Joe Pyrat]

I be talkin' to a ghost!  It be bad luck to be talkin' to a ghost! 

AArrrrrrrgggggg!!!

[kingfish]

electric..... ARRR. I dont know about the rest of you but I always have electrical problems. Theres something about salt water and electricity that dose not get along...My last boat I installed a horizontal rope/chain windlass (craigs list $80)This was the best piece of equipment I have ever owned. 5 to 1 ratio made pulling up my 44# anchor a snap. It was easyier to turn than running my main up. and it was the size of a small winch and did not penitrate the deck. The boat I have now has a very big clumpy chain/rope verticle windlass that is far less in ease of use but could pull my boat off a reef if needed. Tomarrow I will find out what type of windlass I bought last year and post that for your research. As in all my conversations with others I always sugest keeping your electrical as simple as possible. And the more that can fail... will!!!
Cheers
D

[Joe Pyrat]

Kingfish's statement about electrics going south reminded me of a video segment I saw once on bring up your anchor when the electric windlass dies.  It assumed you had a heavy anchor/chain/rode and couldn't just muscle it up.

You are required you have a couple of lengths of line which will reach from your main winches to the bow.  Each of these is equipped on one end with a standard chain hook.

If you have a chain rode, you hook the chain hook onto your rode and use one of your winches (port or starboard) to winch in the rode along the corresponding sides deck.  You then attach the other line/hook and bring in the rode along the other side.  You then disconnect the previous side and repeat, repeating the procedure until you have the anchor ab.

If you do not have a chain rode, use a rolling hitch to attach to the rode.

Rolling Hitch: