Finally, after many years of dreaming I have got a boat!
It is an Allegro 27, a classic, Swedish double ender design and well proven sea going boat.
First launched in 1970, incidentally the same year I was born.
Masthead rig with genoa on rollerfurling, diesel inboard, good heatingsystem, refrigerator, solarpanel, simple "chemical" head.
Some things I want to fix but all in all in very good condition.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0515_zps2463bda5.jpg)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0514_zps08ccc1c7.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/100_0515_zps2463bda5.jpg.html)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0511_zps2bfe15ba.jpg)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0512_zps2f57e3d6.jpg)
What a beautiful boat! Congratulations. :)
Just looked at the specs page...
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=3222
Really like the straightforward interior layout, full keel, double-end with outboard rudder...traditional salty character. A fine boat.
Great looking and capable boat! Congrats
Interior pics when ya can ;D
Nice!!
Thanks!
Here are some interior pics that the seller took for me and one of the boat on land:
Charttable. Refrigerator is underneath.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Att-1_zps279a95cb.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/Att-1_zps279a95cb.jpg.html)
Seaberths on both sides.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Att-3_zpsbca326bf.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/Att-3_zpsbca326bf.jpg.html)
Galley.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Att-7_zps1323adff.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/Att-7_zps1323adff.jpg.html)
Head and kerosene heater with 12v water circulation pump.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/11_Toa__panna_zps34786b64.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/11_Toa__panna_zps34786b64.jpg.html)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/25_Varvet_1_zpsed08534c.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/25_Varvet_1_zpsed08534c.jpg.html)
Very nice and congrats on the boat
Fine boat, Well done! Congrats! What are your plans with her? Long distance cruising?
My plans are first to learn to confidently solo sail her and then explore the Baltic sea and all the countries only a few days sail away. Then we'll see... :)
Nice stern! ;D
Awesome! Fun times ahead there.
Sailed her home!
My friend Tommy and I drove up to where she was moored, went threw her with the very helpful seller, and had a great two days sailing her south to her new homeport.
First day was windy with 15-20 knot winds and we had some nice sailing working out how the reefing was set up and how to handle the running rigging.
The first moorings we intended to use were already taken so we had to motor up a narrow bay to find another sheltered mooring (the Swedish cruising association has a number of buoys scattered around the coast for its members to use at their convenience).
The second day started out nice and sunny so we motored back out to the fairway and learned a lesson. The channel started to look intimidatingly narrow and I couldn't see the next marker on so I idled the engine and consulted the chart. It turned out that I had missed a turn and the "marker" I was heading for was not a marker at all but some unknown pole with a box on top stuck on a rock in the middle of nowhere...
Lesson learned we motored back to the fairway and then had to make a choice, follow the inner fairway which was closer but meant motoring into the wind or take the outer fairway which meant, longer passage, open sea, stronger winds and beating against the wind. Well we had time and were out to sail and I was eager to try my new boat so we opted for the outer route.
It started as fine sailing with 20 knot winds and occasional sunshine but as the hours passed the wind picked up.
We took turns taking a short nap but mine was cut short as we had to take in the third and final reef in the main and roll in more of the genoa which turned out to have "bulge compensator" (correct term?) so it works well without much flapping even when reefed.
Eventually we were beating into 30 knots of wind with even stronger gusts, heavy seas and getting occasional rainshowers.
A lot of bouncing, healing and spraying but at no point did it feel stressinducing. The boat is evidently designed for rough weather and handles very calmly even in rough seas. One thing we learned was that as she is a heavy and wide longkeeler she looses speed rapidly when turned into the wind and in heavy winds you need to really push her over through the tacks or she will just stop pointing to the wind.
Finally we realised that if we continued like this we would not get home until after dark so we reefed the genoa completely, started the engine and motorsailed for a few hours against the weather. This is a great way to find out if you have algae in your diesel tank but the engine worked perfectly all the way and I appreciate the 16 hp over the normal 10 hp for this size of boat.
During this time we got some real squalls and passed threw the edge of a really nasty thunderstorm further inland (we were later told it had made the cars in town stop due to zero visibility) which would have been in the center of, had we chosen the inner fairway!
However when we were nearing our destination the wind died down, the sun came out and we took out all the reefs, completely unfurled the genoa and managed to dry out the sails before sailing into "Mikaja's" new home port and finding my designated slip.
After fixing all new mooring lines it was in for a pizza and then to bed but I found it hard falling a sleep after all the excitement.
To conclude she handles very well in rough seas but will also do OK in lighter airs. The sails are good with functional reefing and the engine works great.
I am VERY happy with my new boat!
Happy boat owner!
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0517_zps1487fefb.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/100_0517_zps1487fefb.jpg.html)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0518_zps97c03d8a.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/100_0518_zps97c03d8a.jpg.html)
Doing good speed even when reefed and Close hauled.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0521_zps96dcd0de.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/100_0521_zps96dcd0de.jpg.html)
Tommy at the helm looking salty.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0520_zps647a5bfc.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/100_0520_zps647a5bfc.jpg.html)
Congrats on getting her home. Glad you had a chance to experience her in varied conditions and are satisfied. Keep us posted on future adventures or upgrades. Have fun
Yes, congrats on sailing her to her new home. Thank you for sharing the experience, including the photos. Nice to have a boat sail as well as she looks! :)
I bought the boat loaded with some equipment and ready to sail so now I've spent a couple of days clearing out and cleaning the boat so see what I have. Some things are useable and some are past their working life or not to my liking and will be replaced.
I pretty much new the condition of the boat and even had her surveyed before buying her and the most urgent issue was: Old hoses and rusty clamps - should be replaced, and the cockpit drains lack valves.
When I had emptied the cockpit lockers of anchors, lines, jerrycans, cockpit table, bow ladder and an assortment of other things, I was able to maneuver out the pieces of plywood cut out to fit around fittings and shapes creating a flat bottom in the lockers.
It was now possible to closely inspect the threw hulls.
If you look closely you can see a crack in the hose just above the screw on the clamp.
When I touch the hose water seeps through!
I was hoping to get some sailing, and a little fixing done before I lift her for the winter but I will have to reprioritize and lift her a s soon as possible.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0524_zps03221e7a.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/100_0524_zps03221e7a.jpg.html)
THAT needs some sort of seacock. Hoses should NEVER be clamped to threaded fittings, especially under the waterline.
Yes, I would for sure haul the boat and fix that
I am not sure if the fitting is threaded or flanged for a hose. Either way it is long overdue for replacing and I will put in threaded brass threw hulls with valves. Then I will make sure these are easily accessible even when the locker is loaded.
BRONZE, not brass. Brass has no place in fittings like that in salt water.
Typo, but thanks for the reminder!
Quote from: SeaHusky on August 31, 2014, 10:49:02 AM
If you look closely you can see a crack in the hose just above the screw on the clamp. When I touch the hose water seeps through!
Yikes...that you were at sea with those.
If there will be any delay in hauling out, you may be able to plug/cover the through-hulls from the outside and at least replace the old hoses and clamps as soon as possible.
As a precaution, you might want to keep a tapered wooden plug nearby and ready to drive into the inside of the through-hull...until you get a seacock installed?
That is an option, thanks for the tip.
Quote from: Jim_ME on September 01, 2014, 08:58:01 PM
As a precaution, you might want to keep a tapered wooden plug nearby and ready to drive into the inside of the through-hull...until you get a seacock installed?
That was the first thing I did!
Every cruiser needs some sort of dingy and as I am also an avid sea kayaker I thought I would try something a bit different so today I bought this.
It is a kayak that splits in half and although they do not nest, the pieces should fit comfortably in the V-berth when necessary.
As long as I am alone it will carry me and some load and beats pumping an inflatable every time and then trying to row in a strong wind.
It will also be a nice way to explore the nooks and crannies of the foreign shores I hope to visit.
Should heck freeze over and I was to find some company to sail with there is also a midsection that can be added making it a tandem or any number of seats you wish.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/kajak_zps32f0e071.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/kajak_zps32f0e071.jpg.html)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/kajak2_zpsccbb47ae.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/kajak2_zpsccbb47ae.jpg.html)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-ZWA0-U-ao
Like a glove!
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0532_zps93614dba.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/100_0532_zps93614dba.jpg.html)
Having a bad through hull means you really need a dependable bilge pump.
Unfortunately while I was cleaning out the bilge the bilge pump also sprung a leak...
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_0530_zpsef1e8428.jpg) (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/snowhound2/media/100_0530_zpsef1e8428.jpg.html)
The bilge pump leaking is not cool. :(
The kayak looks awesome. I considered a kayak for awhile; but I couldn't figure out a way to get in and out from the mother ship without going swimming!
During this winter I am going through the different systems on this old boat and upgrading or replacing them as needed.
It turns out that a lot of things that I thought were OK actually need replacing or fixing. More work, time and money then predicted but this gives me the opportunity to make it to my liking, or at least to what I think I will like.
Not much to show yet but the engine panel was originally set up for an Albin petrol engine and later patched up to fit a standard Lombardini panel which was starting to look rather worn.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Startpanel1_zps10ec7942.jpg)
This will make the cockpit look a bit nicer.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Startpanelny_zps5b53e06e.jpg)
Ooooo shiny.
Hallo, this is Klaus,
I have seen you bought a very nice boat. I have got a storefidra and is very similar to yours. I did a big restoration. By boat has had osmosis. Did you look for that? What kind of kajak did you buy. It is nice as a dingy. It is fast, strong and you need no motor.
Best regards
Klaus
Hello Klaus and welcome!
Yes, the Storfidra is very similar and I understand a great boat.
I have heard that the Fisks?tra shipyard did not have a heated rooms for manufacture and therefore the humidity during the laying up of the hulls has made them prone to osmosis. Have you fixed yours?
I have started a rather complete restoration on most of the on board systems, through hulls, hoses, batteries and electrics, water and plumbing and will continue with insulation etc. when I get the necessary stuff done.
One of the good things with my boat is that ten years ago the previous owner epoxied the hull below the waterline and repainted it above so I have no risk of osmosis.
The kayak is a Point 65 "Martini" which is more of a play toy than a real kayak but I hope it will do well as a dingy between boat and shore.
Do write a little about yourself in the "Introductions" thread!
I guess you are familiar with the process.
I needed to replace all through hulls and hoses. I also needed a new bilgepump with hoses and outlet.
Then I wanted to move the batteries to a diffrent location to make room for a better fueltank.
When you alter the interior you want to replace the old carpet used as lining and then you want to remove all the old glue before painting or adding a new insulated liner. When you do that you find that the bulkheads are not properly attached to the hull and also some spots where you may have water coming through holes for wiring and you realize that most of the wiring needs replacing anyway.
Eventually you reach the obvious conclusion to put off sailing for this year and do it all right once and for all!
Note the longitudinal stringers and how the chain plates are attached to the hull. The hull itself is 6mm thick at its thinest and 8mm for the most part. You can also See the row of bolts where the cabin top is bolted onto the hull. She is built like a tank!
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1030_zpsz6deswd0.jpg)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1032_zpslwwdej58.jpg)
Rofl.
You are preaching to the choir. But it's all worth it
After many miles of cruising ;D ;D
Crikey mate. If your going to dive in, you may as well dive in the deep end!
Did you take templates from the old fittout or are you changing things up a bit?
Quote from: matt195583 on May 26, 2015, 08:43:23 AM
Crikey mate. If your going to dive in, you may as well dive in the deep end!
Did you take templates from the old fittout or are you changing things up a bit?
A few of the bulkheads around the cockpit lockers and engine were so full of holes and cutouts that it was easier to replace them then to patch them up, which is what started the whole deconstruction process. That and the fact that all were incorrectly attached to the hull.
Most of the other bulkheads will be reused as is or slightly modified after sanding down, epoxied and either varnished or painted depending on their placement.
Wow, what a nicely constructed hull!!! 8) ;D Your level of interior finish closely resembles that of Katie Marie at the present time. I think we have the same decorator. ;)
As was common in the seventies, my hull was built by a shipyard and the interior was then built by the owner according to detailed instructions.
Quality and workmanship varies depending on the skill of the owner.
The beam below the mast step cracked early on and was then reinforced with an iron "L-beam".
The cracked beam
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1060_zpsbjad2rjd.jpg)
It is not hard to understand why it fractured. Plywood with equally thick layers has 50% of the fibres oriented in each direction.
Stand it on end and only half of the fibres will take the load at a right angle. The other half will not have much strength.
Using plywood with more fibres in one direction than the other is an improvement if you orient it the right way.
Turn it the wrong way and there is no strength at all...
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1061_zpsbfmnbhoc.jpg)
The iron beam was rusted but as my original intention was to get her seaworthy an sail her this season I cleaned and painted it in order to use it for the time being but as i now am doing a complete refit I will also replace it with a new wooden beam.
A long time ago, when some of the moderators were young, ships were built of wood and a surveyor would go through the oak stands looking at the trees. Depending on their curves and angles he would decide what part each tree or branch was suitable for or "wanted to be".
In an attempt to pick up this tradition I have felled and cut an oak that "wants to be" a new mast support beam.
What dimensions do you think I need to cut it to? Will 2"x2" be enough or should I add an inch on the height?
It is supported by a post on either side of the companionway.
My aim is to use the arc to increase headroom and keep it an equal thickness all the way and not taper like the original.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1068_zpsls9og6l6.jpg)
The last item left in the hull was the engine so with the help of some "technically fluent friends" we lifted it out of the boat and have taken it to a friends workshop. During the winter and under his guidance I will do a complete overhaul in order to get to know even this part of my boat.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Motor%20001_zps3usd09sn.jpg)
Looking good!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Looking at your boat's hull in the background, noticed that the propeller aperture/void is located entirely within the hull, allowing the attached rudder and its post to be continuous. Must be a strong design.
Quote from: Jim_ME on August 05, 2015, 12:17:59 AM
Looking at your boat's hull in the background, noticed that the propeller aperture/void is located entirely within the hull, allowing the attached rudder and its post to be continuous. Must be a strong design.
The whole boat is said to be one of the strongest designs. I don't know if there is a continuous post through the whole length of the rudder but the absence of a cutout in the rudder for the propeller is said to make the rudder much more efficient compared to similar designs.
An update on my progress:
Earlier in this thread you can see what I started out with. Realizing that this was going to become a complete refit I took her home.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Mikaja%20hemma_zpsnmprsh9v.jpg)
As I had to sand away all the old glue residue from the lining I went all the way and removed all the topcoat from the interior.
This revealed some previously hidden flaws to attend. I also cut away some of the interior fiberglass lining
which had no apparent function but came in good use later on.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Urslipat%20skrov%20foumlr_zpsfmo61gg3.jpg)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Urslipat%20skrov%20akter_zpsrcwaljie.jpg)
The foredeck had a water inlet and a ventilator as well as the boltholes for mounting the pulpit and the main pollard.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Haringl%20i%20foumlrdaumlcket_zpstmsyz3es.jpg)
Where the pulpit is mounted the foam core of the deck is replaced with plywood.
The fore ones were dry but the aft ones, where the wires for the lanterns go through, were soaked.
I removed all the plywood, filled the void with thickened epoxy and glassed over(under) it.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Foumlrstaumlrkning%20under%20pullpit_zpsyqreloqs.jpg)
The foredeck will, apart from the pulpit and main pollard, have a windlass and a hatch for the chain locker.
I felt that trying to glass it from underneath to get it all strong enough was above my current ability so I used the part of the interior lining I had previously removed and glued and screwed it to the underside of the deck. I could then fill up the holes from above with core material and glass it over.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Foumlrstaumlrkning%20under%20foumlren_zpsyjzd2uik.jpg)
You can also see the sharp angle at the front of the hull which I have filled in with thickened epoxy and glassed over.
At this point it is only one layer of glass but I plan to add a number of layers making the whole front in effect a triangular beam from the top,
all the way down to where the exterior cast iron keel begins. This I think will give me an advantage if I have a head on collision with something.
I cut down a naturally curved oak tree...
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1068_zpsls9og6l6.jpg)
..and shaped it into a mast support beam with the grain following the curve for maximum strength.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1084_zpstbj6ygui.jpg)
The mast support bulkhead and beam in place supported on both sides by solid mahogany posts.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1097_zpscljxxfol.jpg)
The aft bulkhead was so full of holes and cutouts that I discarded it and made a new one from half inch plywood.
All bulkheads are attached to the hull with a fillet with a 40mm radius and two layers of fibreglass on both sides to ensure a good load distribution.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Akterskott_zpscveqdgoi.jpg)
This is the planned layout. I have omitted the "hanging clothes locker" opposite of the head in favour of a king size birth for when moored. Fuel- and water tanks and batteries are shown. All other areas, except beneath the chart table, are storage areas.
Comments are welcome!
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Layout%20foumlrraringd%20engelska_zpsrsbp3ngz.jpg)
That looks really nice
I love your workbench- guess why ;D
I like the layout, similar to what I did with the Ariel
http://www.pbase.com/morningdove/mariah&page=3
Temperatures are now far below freezing and too expensive to keep the boat heated enough for glassing bulkheads so time for something different. With the help of a friend the engine, a 20 year old Lombardini LDV 602 two cylinder, common rail, 16hp diesel, has gone from being just a noisy lump of wizardry located in the most awkward space to an understandable, functioning integral part of the boat.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1159_zpsx6sy4pnu.jpg)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1160_zpsol8k19z9.jpg)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1161_zpsy1hmwune.jpg)
Nice to see you are making progress. The weather has turned cold here too. Keep up the great work!
Nice boat Many years of pleasure with her
Ordered spare parts for rebuilding the engine. Less then 2000 hrs of run time but 20 years of corrosion still leaves a mark.
Also my new boom with single line reefing arrived.
The easier it is to reef and unfurl the more likely you are to do it in time.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1175_zpsbpsljkaz.jpg)
Engine rebuild continued. Main parts sandblasted and painted.
I chose yellow to make the whole engine room lighter and for any leaks or beginning corrosion to be easily visible.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1186_zpseghhrasv.jpg)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/100_1191_zpsm3x2g3me.jpg)
Progress is slow but it is there!
Underneath the births there will be three storage compartments on each side.
On starboard there will be one for batteries and two for storage and on the port side will be one with mainly a water bladder and two storage.
The birth tops were not reusable so I am making new ones which will have top loading hatches for each compartment.
I tried to adapt and reuse the original bunk fronts but it didn't work so they will also be replaced with new ones and will have the radiators for the heating system inset.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/006_zpsn6ebbi4y.jpg)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/004_zpsy5znt1ld.jpg)
Now, as I am making completely new bunk tops and fronts they will not have any holes unless I put them there so now I have the option of either creating ventilation to the compartments or making them all separate and watertight (as James Baldwin, Atom suggests).
My concerns are condensation and mold, as well as ventilation of the battery compartment so -
what are your ideas and suggestions?
I think you need some kind of ventilation. Especially for the batteries.
For storage lockers perhaps you can get away with some kind of desiccant and a schedule of regular cleanings. Or perhaps you can somehow route ventilation through a pipe to a higher output location? Without a fan to boost airflow it might not be too effective, though.
Risk management. Hmm. Ideally, multiple water tight compartments could help save the boat in the unlikely occurrence of a hull breach. Mold is a constant battle, and without decent ventilation (and thereby compromising water tight integrity of a compartment) it is likely to be a losing one. Sinking could be fatal. Mold could be annoying, damaging and unpleasant and if ignored a health concern. Choices, choices.
Personally. I think any locker likely to have clothing, food, paper, etc... really needs to have decent ventilation, or quality of life is going to suffer. If you have space that isn't necessary for stowage (like Bigfoot, such a concept has been suggested by the occasional blurry picture; but never definitively proven), perhaps sealing it and filling it with foam would be a good idea.
Another thought, I guess, is if you were planning on a serious expedition (where the giant ice cubes float, for instance), then the unpleasantness of completely sealed lockers would be overridden by an increased likelihood of hitting something hard and sharp.
So ventilate. Or not. I could be wrong.
Quote from: Godot on March 31, 2016, 09:41:39 AM
If you have space that isn't necessary for stowage (like Bigfoot, such a concept has been suggested by the occasional blurry picture; but never definitively proven)
Oh come on, you can't seriously believe in that stuff? Next you will say that rum may cause headaches.
Thanks for the suggestions! Although my current charts do cover Spitzbergen it is improbable that I will go there any time soon. Having all compartments watertight is a fun idea to play with but as you say not really practical. I think I will go for adequate ventilation.
Tremendous progress! Access from the top can be annoying when the cushions must be raised, but in a sever heel or knockdown, everything stays in place. I have also found that it is easier to fumble around and find the items in the corners from above!
Batteries vent corrosive and explosive gasses, hydrogen and oxygen, in perfect ratio to ruin your day. Fortunately, most of the time, in small quantities. The battery compartment should be as near air tight as practical to the interior, and have two small vent tubes to the exterior. 1/4 inch or 1/2 cm should be adequate. One end should be near the top of the compartment to vent hydrogen, the other at the bottom for the oxygen.
Two will encourage circulation, preventing build up of gasses. Small thru hull vents similar to fuel tank vents would be suitable, on a vertical surface, and turned differently so they will not have the same air pressure, no matter the wind direction.
The tubes should each run up above the vents, the back down, to discourage splashes from running into the battery compartment.
Make the compartment(s) - the ones which you are otherwise thinking to put a bladder into - into sealed water tanks of their own right, and if you get a hull hole there, no big deal, except for the lost water. ;)
Top-loading access basically creates a lot of little coffer dams in the space below, each area of which would then become (sort of) sea chests in the event of a holing, right? So make the 'lids' seal-able, maybe with gaskets and a way to tighten/lock them down if the hull below is breached. That was a thought I've had.. :)
We did top-loading compartments for all of our lockers with the exception of a few small lockers in the galley. Almost all of the top-loaders could be made water tight with the addition of gaskets and latches on the lids as all of the seams were filleted and taped during construction. I am watching for signs of mold but I think it is just too hot in the yard and the addition of cooler water on the outside of the hull may start something. The starboard setee lockers would be easy enough to add vents to, but the v-berth lockers are a different story If it does change considerably what desiccant would you guys recommend?
Thanks in advance.
I'm not sure that desiccant is a typically recommended solution. It's just my idea, and seems to make sense to me. Try Indicating-Desiccant-Silica-Canister-Pelican (http://"http://www.amazon.com/Indicating-Desiccant-Silica-Canister-Pelican/dp/B0018O035O"). I haven't used it; but it appears reusable which is good.
Since I made my comment, it occurred to me that I have lockers without decent ventilation, and so far I haven't had too much trouble, although they aren't tightly sealed, so maybe I overstate things. I think lockers containing clothing would be the biggest risk. If you can put things in plastic totes with tight sealing lids it might even be OK. Maybe.
ALL of the lockers on Tehani are top opening, and under settee cushions, or berth cushions.
They are totally sealed off at each end. I have had zero problems with things getting moldy. I do have the lower part of all lockers lined with that waffle weave rubberized material used as shelf liners.
Launched after rebuild in 2004, and have spent many many days cruising
On the previous boat, Necessity. I had the same, but I cut a small hole in the front of each locker, up high and pushed in one of the sink drain covers- the kind with three spring fingers on the back. Never had a problem there either. And remember- I live where 95% humidity is pretty normal.
I do get mold on the inside of the cabin top, and sides. I keep a container of the Clorox wipes, and use those every once in a while to wipe down. Keeps THAT mildew in check
I am slowly creating and dry fitting the jigsaw puzzle that will be the interior.
The bunks have been lowered 2" and have got new fronts, made from recycling
the mahogany ply that was the old bunk tops, and a stern facing nav-station is coming together.
A large part of the chart table will be hinged and can be folded up to give access to the area underneath
where perhaps I can later fit a life raft in a soft pack or something else useful?
I have also taken my Short range certificate so I can legally mount my VHF.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/KojSB1_zpsvrsmj4tr.jpg)
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Nav2_zpszsfqcji2.jpg)
The cooler used to take up all the space where the nav-station now is but I have managed
to squeeze it in to the aft part of the pentry.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Pentry1_zpsrhhaonuv.jpg)
As always any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated as I am more or less making things up as I go along!
Nice work. I like the way the aft end of the settee/berth does double duty as a seat at the chart table. Good use of space. :)
WOW
What a great boat and the progress you have made is fantastic!
You should be very, very proud.
Thanks Bud!
Are you doing any work on your boat that I can steal some ideas from?
Quote from: Tim on November 18, 2015, 07:08:02 PM
I like the layout, similar to what I did with the Ariel
http://www.pbase.com/morningdove/mariah&page=3
Tim, what kind of head is that?
It looks like a Porta Potti but is the hose for emptying or for ventilation?
It is a Dometic 965 MSD. There are two hoses plumbed to the outside, both emptying and ventilation
.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Yl27i%2BkaL._SL1000_.jpg)
(http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server3900/88d88/products/133/images/239/230378jpg__15866.1321908182.1280.1280.JPG?c=2)
I have a Dometic also. Smaller model. Been very pleased with. Had it plumbed for pump out since 2010.
Thanks!
I have the Dometic 972 but I didn't know they offered versions with plumbing. Can't seem to find them in Sweden either but it is a possible upgrade for the future.
Quote from: SeaHusky on May 10, 2016, 03:51:43 PM
Thanks!
I have the Dometic 972 but I didn't know they offered versions with plumbing. Can't seem to find them in Sweden either but it is a possible upgrade for the future.
Don't know the model numbers on mine (papers on boat), but it "swings" either way ;)
In the Bahamas I had it set for dump over board, since there ARE no pump out stations, or there were none in 2010. Otherwise,, I switch it back.
My vision was the possibility to either "pump out" or "carry out" depending on if there is a pump out station available or not but maybe that doesn't work?
Yes, you can do either. The connections are accessible on mine (just remember to keep the caps that come with handy).
There is a bracket that holds it down that comes off with two screws.
Quote from: SeaHusky on May 11, 2016, 04:00:36 AM
My vision was the possibility to either "pump out" or "carry out" depending on if there is a pump out station available or not but maybe that doesn't work?
Before I plumbed for pumpout, I found many places that frowned on carrying it to the head and dumping. I've been treated like a criminal in a few places. Some even had signs saying no porta potty dumping. And very few places that were set up for porta pottis. Can almost count on one hand here on the Texas coast, all the way to Annapolis.
Offshore it's legal to dump- East coast and Texas coast-3 miles out, Florida west coast- 9 miles
On the other hand pumpout stations are not hard to find, many are free, or a minimal charge. I've never been sorry I switched to pump out
Edited to add- I've looked into Composting heads, but they are all too tall. I'd have too rebuild my forward cabin to fit one in. NOT gonna happen ;)
Yeah, its illegal to pump out in Swedish waters also so If you have a fix-mounted head it is mandatory to have it plumbed for pump out. That is why I went with a Porta Potti.
My marina doesn?t allow emptying of the Porta in the bathroom because of previous messes but we have a pump out station and are advised to use that for emptying the Porta. Just put it on the dock and stick the hose in. It just seems easier to have it plumbed like you have and not as prone to failure as most heads seem to be but my future home port will be a private mooring with no facility what so ever so I need the option to "carry out".
Quote from: CharlieJ on May 11, 2016, 10:59:49 AM
I've looked into Composting heads, but they are all too tall. I'd have too rebuild my forward cabin to fit one in. ...
Charlie, maybe you could build a custom Low-profile version for smallish SailFar-sized boats? :)
Quote from: Jim_ME on May 12, 2016, 02:56:52 PM
Quote from: CharlieJ on May 11, 2016, 10:59:49 AM
I've looked into Composting heads, but they are all too tall. I'd have too rebuild my forward cabin to fit one in. ...
Charlie, maybe you could build a custom Low-profile version for smallish SailFar-sized boats? :)
Thought about it earlier, but I'm very happy with my Plumbed MSD. No smell, easy to use and I already own it :)
Back rest trial.
All comments and ideas are as always most welcome!
The back rest is held in place by four sliding bolt latches which double as hinges.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Ryggstoumld3_zpscz8j1xgl.jpg)
Folded down to give access to storage compartment.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Ryggstoumld4_zps2kur05is.jpg)
Folded up to allow use of the full width of the mattress.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Ryggstoumld5_zpsxkztuk22.jpg)
Another option is to fold it partly backwards, like the original design. This would reduce the storage volume behind the backrest but allow a sea birth using a traditional lee cloth. The original design did not allow access behind so that area was effectively wasted.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Att-3_zpsbca326bf.jpg)
Only problem I see is holding what ever is stowed behind that back in place when used like in third pic. What are you planning? Nets
I'm not sure. I was thinking maybe a plywood front with large cut-out openings, possibly with nets over the openings. What would you do?
Something like this could be easily made out of very light plywood....even thin mahogany underlay ply. On Allure I keep light weight items there...extra TP, paper towels, pillows etc. There was no need for netting as the raised edge seemed to hold everything in. Would be simple to make. Just a thought.
Thanks Frank! That is what I meant.
Do you have any sections or is it all one compartment?
All one
Stuff jammed in doesn't move. I guess it all depends what you plan on putting there. I keep heavy things under the settees and light items up in those pockets.
Your use may be different and deviders needed.
Nice to see yours coming together!
Have fun
That is a sweet boat! I somehow never made it past the Allegro 24, but the 27 footer looks like an ideal small boat cruiser. Congrats to you.
Thanks Tony!
Jut to clarify, I think you are confusing the "Allegra" by Fred Bingham and Lou Nagy with my "Allegro" by Lars-Olof Norlin?
Modern yacht care products are amazing! I was pretty sure that the state of my gelcoat was so bad that I would have to repaint the whole top side if I ever wanted it to look decent. Turns out it can be restored to look great for being 45 years old.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Gelcoat1_zpsva5fadzn.jpg)
Quote from: SeaHusky on May 23, 2016, 08:22:16 AM
Modern yacht care products are amazing! I was pretty sure that the state of my gelcoat was so bad that I would have to repaint the whole top side if I ever wanted it to look decent. Turns out it can be restored to look great for being 45
Hi there, which product sid you use? I am looking at reviving my chalky gelcoat myself and found a product called " Poli gloss". Apparently fr.o.m. Canada that promilles a LOT.....which always makes me suspicious :o
Congratulations on a great projekt you are undertaking, sorry I haven't noticed before, but I have spent but very little time on forums and internet lately.
The Allegro brings back memories indeed, used to be a dream boat for me a long time ago. I actually worked at the yard in Nyk?ping a few months glassing hulls together with the owners. Interesting to get an insight in the process but a terrifying working environment had me moving on rather swiftly to teaching ;-)
Hi and welcome back maxiSwede!
For my gelcoat I simply wiped it down with acetone, which actually dissolves the top layer of the gelcoat, and then used Hempel rubbing liquid.
Cool that you worked with the Allegros! It was a dream boat for me to for many years but completely out of my price range and then the recession happened and prices were cut by more than half so now I have one.
It has progressed slower than I had hoped but I am finally getting some paint in the aft lockers and engine compartment and the engine is almost ready to put back in.
Your doing a great job. She will end up better than new!
Aceton and rubbing. I believe that's just fine if you wax once a year in Sweden. Our current boat has spent quite a few years on the trio is and while I cam still get a decent result "buffing and waxing" it lasts only a couple of months. Since we are on a budget haul-outs are not very frequent so by the time we do haul her out the looks are quite sad....
I do not want to do a paint job as long as there is still gelcoat thick enough....since once you start down that road you will have to repaint every few years, and it s not easy to patch up with two part paint either....
LOL a copy and paste from a post I JUST made on the trailer sailor board five minutes ago.
As an old boat builder, I disagree with using acetone, for several reasons. First it flashes off so quickly it really doesn't "clean" It just smears things around, unless you use a bunch, on very wet rags or towels
My wipe down of choice, when using a solvent, is denatured alcohol. But I really don't have a problem with clean towels and water.
I almost never use Acetone in my shop.
Added here-
Oh, and I've never found that Acetone does much of anything to gelcoat, except wipe off the crud. It removes the dullness, but no harm to gelcoat itself that I've found
Still don't much use it. I do have a quart in the shop :)
Quote from: maxiSwede on October 31, 2016, 05:12:11 PM
Your doing a great job. She will end up better than new!
I do not want to do a paint job as long as there is still gelcoat thick enough....since once you start down that road you will have to repaint every few years, and it s not easy to patch up with two part paint either....
Agree there BUT- Tehani was painted with a 2 part poly in 2005, and has been really used since, and never waxed. Many docks, lock walls, and dinghies banged alongside, etc Looks like this, from BEER in Florida last year
So depends on the paint
Quote from: CharlieJ on October 31, 2016, 10:31:08 PM
Agree there BUT- Tehani was painted with a 2 part poly in 2005, and has been really used since, and never waxed. Many docks, lock walls, and dinghies banged alongside, etc Looks like this, from BEER in Florida last year
So depends on the paint
Charlie, that's an interesting comment, and no doubt you know what your talking about!
10 years is good already, and I believe there is about as much UV at your location as in FrPol. May I ask which paint you used? Sprayed or rollers/tipped? Obviously the prep job is 90%
Sorry of hi-jacking the thread, Mod may well move it or start a new thread,
Cheers
Starting a new thread.Will call it "Paint work on Boats"
Now I am all confused and don't know which thread to reply in... ???
The gelcoat had lots of stains that didn't go away with denatured alcohol but acetone worked. Charlie is probably correct that it is more smeared than removed but at least it looks less eye catching.
ROFL- your thread amigo, do what you want.Didn't want to hijack it onto an off thread, so started the new one to be just about paint
Sorry about the drift Husky!
This thread is about your b?t! ;-)
I have heard that if you don?t update your thread people will get bored and start talking about paint drying so here is a short update.
Progress is slow but steady. The engine has been completely disassembled and reassembled. My friend who has guided me and also done a lot of the work is an aircraft technician who leaves nothing untouched if it can be improved upon so I am confident that i will not share the engine problems which seem to be mandatory for long distance cruising. We actually found that the gasket for the internal water pump was rotted and the exhaust port on the aluminum heat exchanger was eroded so, left untouched, either of these would have caused a failure in the future at the most inconvenient time.
Some updates on the boat.
The ?engine room?:
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Uppdatering1%20001_zpsci97iqu1.jpg)
Port lights:
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Uppdatering1%20003_zpsigejlkp2.jpg)
Battery compartment:
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Uppdatering1%20002_zpscgz0sg0j.jpg)
3x95Ah + 70Ah starter:
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Uppdatering1%20004_zpsd61fyyfg.jpg)
Also the road toward cruising is not straight but even unplanned detours may become shortcuts. Due to health issues I am moving up to my parents and have booked a slip for next season in a marina close to where I will live. This is a 25 minute drive to the boat as opposed to the present 2 hours and also a much better sailing area:
https://www.google.com/maps/@58.6567463,17.1122494,14.5z
That is a very impressive battery box, and it doubtless will be easy to maintain the bank. All of your work on the Allegro is top quality.
The one weakness that I see is the strap to hold the batteries in place. It would be adequate for a single battery, but your 4 units are very heavy. The span from the attachments is also a weakening factor, and the 2 inner batteries will have a much higher force on the strap than the outside ones.
You have a lip on both sides of the battery box, and a rigid wood or fiberglass bridge across would be much stronger, and easily removed for service and removal of batteries. I used a 1/2 by 3 inch wood slat for my single battery. I have a removable pin that prevents the slat from moving unless I want to take it out.
Some firm compressible foam on the underside of the bridge to take up any looseness for each individual battery helps keep all exactly in place.
When you move the boat, will your friends still be readily available to assist in your boat work? They have done impressive work with you so far!
Thanks Norman!
The strap is mainly for the truck move of the boat to my parents house but your suggestion is great!
My friends have helped with the engine but the rest is all me. That is why it is taking so long.
So clean and shiny! It must be satisfying to get to go over everything so thoroughly. I fantasized a lot about ripping some things on our boat apart entirely so I could have them just so, but I think we'd have cracked if we spent more than 2 years working on the boat everyday. Anyways, looks very nice.
Clean and shiny is nice and It is satisfying to see things finally start coming together but more then that it is a boat completely tuned to my needs! What I am trying to build here is a boat specifically for poor health, single handed cruising in the Baltic and possibly for a few people to do some north sea cruising in the future.
It has turned out to be much, much more work and a lot more money than I had thought and planned but as this is probably my last, big project I am OK with it because what I am getting is a boat that is completely to my own preferences and specifications. Imagine what that would cost if I had ordered a new boat like this (maybe Frank has?)
Also everything is better than if I had bought it new because I know every last detail and it will be done to the best of my knowledge and ability. Granted I am learning as I go and have made many mistakes and would have done some things differently had I done more research but at least all flaws are due to my shortcomings and not because someone, somewhere was cutting corners.
I had hoped to have glued the insulation to the hull this season but winter came early and we now have subzero temperatures so that will have to wait.
I admire what you are doing! Will be well worth the work and whatever frustrations you may encounter in the end.
To have a boat exactly what you want and to know its inner workings so intimately is a huge bonus!!
Keep the faith 😄😄
I join in here with the hoorays!
Very nice job indeed. Ditto on the battery strap comment.
No progress on the boat as I have moved in with my parents and got dad home from the hospital with a replaced knee. As it was rather windy but still a nice day I took a drive to my designated slip for next season to check things out. I thought I would take the opportunity to post some pics before Frank starts flooding the forum with rum soaked images of turtle infested beaches. (no no, not jealous at all...)
Standing by my slip looking in toward the sailing club house
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/023_zpsvuaglebp.jpg)
This is why I am adding a full inch of insulation to all of the hull. If you are OK with using gloves when drinking your sundowner and prolong the season you get the archipelago pretty much to your self!
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/024_zpsilceicno.jpg)
Looking the other direction, all I have to do is turn starboard around the wave breaker, aim for the gap, set the tiller pilot and settle in the cockpit until I see Finland.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/028_zpsebkqcg3t.jpg)
To paraphrase Monty Python: "No one expects the Swedish coast guard!"
At least I should not expect to out run them even though I do have a rebuilt engine.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/031_zps7n0kzbgb.jpg)
Nice views out!
Geez...700hp on that boat....it must do 45knots+
Boat has now arrived safely at new location (parents garden) outside the town of Nykoping where she was built 46 years ago.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Mikaja%20ny%20003_zpsako9c62d.jpg)
Had to take a picture before the cover goes on so I remember what she looks like.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Mikaja%20ny%20002_zpszjm3zuf1.jpg)
Hi all!
I haven't been here for a few months. Life happens and I have spent my time managing health issues, both mine and in the family, so no sailing this season either. The boat has been neglected for a while but I have finally got around to varnishing interior wood and started lining the hull.
Due to the hulls construction it has to be done in many small pieces so it will take some time.
(http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag441/snowhound2/Liner1_zps4ps41f3h.jpg)
Glad to hear you have again found some time for the boat.
Good luck with it, and most of all, good health!
I seem to be repeating myself but.. progress is slow but steady.
The main part of the galley is don and I am working my way up the port side.
As photobucket have decided to start charging for their service I expect my images to disappear shortly so I am trying the "attachment option". We will see if it works.
looking good
Quote from: SeaHusky on August 14, 2017, 03:33:45 PM
I seem to be repeating myself but.. progress is slow but steady.
The main part of the galley is don and I am working my way up the port side.
As photobucket have decided to start charging for their service I expect my images to disappear shortly so I am trying the "attachment option". We will see if it works.
I am using Flickr since over ten years, there are other free options too!
I have been able to put in some hours and it is finally starting to resemble a boat again.
I have been forced to stray somewhat from the KISS-principle. There was simply not enough room for a conveniently placed porta-potti so I have installed a pump out head with holding tank. I realized that the soundproofing of the engine compartment I had used, the foam with aluminum foil type, was so 1990:s and is actually scientifically incorrect so I ripped it out and replaced it with state of the art space age material (actually the space age was the 60:s and 70:s. Since then we have not gone past low earth orbit) which is a foam with a lead/bitumen backing that absorbs the vibrations in the bulkheads. Now starting on the V-birth with the intention of getting the whole hull insulated before it gets cold. This way I hope I can work on the interior all winter.
Will be nice if you get it insulated so you can continue wo4king on her.
How are ya insulating?
Where did you get the soundproofing?
And....pictures!!!
😄😄
I hope the pictures in my last post are showing!?
I am gluing a 10mm closed cell foam mat to the GRP surfaces and covering that with a vinyl liner which has a 5mm foam backing. The decks and cabin top have a foam core laminate and I will cover the deck areas with a 6mm rubber/cork composite. I think she will be quite cosy.
The soundproofing is from a Swedish company called Karnag. http://karnag.se/ljudisolering.html (http://karnag.se/ljudisolering.html)
Yes....pictures show fine when you are on your thread.
Looking good.....and very 'tidy' for a work in progress.
Thanks for the link.
V-birth coming along.
I made a sort of A-frame of wood resting on the hull reinforcing stringer and filled up the voids with foam which I then glassed over creating a flat ledge all around the hull which I can make a watertight seal against.
I also cut some holes for the windlass and chain locker. Always nervous to make big holes. Measure twice, have coffee and then measure again before cutting.
Wow looking good. I like the idea you had to make a sealing surface in the v-berth. 8)
Making progress.
Bow is duly compartmentalized (is that even a word?) and the electrical systems are coming together.
Looking good!
Sounds like a spelling bee word to me 😄
A small update.
Everything takes much longer than anticipated. Dad says make an estimate and multiply it with pi, seems rather accurate. Working on the boat during winter is difficult so not much happening. Before it got cold I managed to complete the bunks in the V-birth. I got the hardware on the foredeck installed and also did a test with the cork-rubber composite on the foredeck and in the cockpit. It is an easy way to cover up the old, dirty, scuffed deck and both looks and feels great!
It does not stay cool in the sun as I had hoped but this is probably because I use the industrial quality with more rubber than cork while the ridiculously expensive yacht quality has more cork content.
The first picture is on its side...
That's 16 gallons of water under the V-birth. Not an ideal placement for weight but it makes for good floatation if I get holed in the bow. When I get time I will make an integrated water tank under the cabin sole. I estimate it will be around 20 gallons, exactly where I want the extra weight, and then the forward tank will be used mainly when I need to maximise the amount of freshwater carried.
I have a 15 gallon flex tank of water under the V-Berth in Tehani she seems to like it, Have another 25 gallon flex tank under the cockpit
Looking good by the way
Wow, a tank with sensible access for inspection/cleaning - who'd have ever thought someone would start making that? :) Looks good.
As does the cork. Is the cork stuff UV rated, designed for constant exposure?
I thought I had posted this but I can't seem to find it so forgive me if I repeat myself.
At a farm a miles walk from where I live there has been this mystery boat that I have found very intriguing.
Yesterday I finally got to meet the owner.
The boat is a gaff rigged Colin Archer. 35' by 13'. GRP hull, one inch thick, 11 tons.
He is restoring it and plans to circumnavigate but going round Cape Horn rather than the Panama canal.
Love those Colin Archer lines; even from under a tarp!
That paint job looks very classic. Befitting. :)
She reminds me of "Fugacity", an old wooden ketch abandoned and slowly dying here in Georgetown. She was sailed over from the Olde Worlde on her own bottom. Like a museum inside...
(Note: Photo not mine; most likely originally by a gent named Ed Waldrop.)
Here is a double ender challenge!
A Simrad TP32 tiller pilot is 595mm long.
It is to be mounted perpendicular to, and at a point 460mm from, the rudder axel.
(If you click the pictures they level)
Wow, not much room there for all that. And it looks like you need a degree in math to figure it all out. ;D
Plenty of room since the entire tiller pilot will be outside of the hull.
But I have already come up with a cunning plan...
Not as easy as I thought it would be ::) but finally the engine is back in its mounts.
(Why do pictures end up tilted but when you click them they are the right way up?)
Something to keep in your pocket:
When I cut out the forward end of Katie Maries cockpit, it included the cockpit scuppers. They drained straight down into original, factory made fiberglass thru-hulls, w/no seacocks. These structures were too too tall, and likely not strong enough to withstand, the forces of a pounding of a wooden plug into them to keep water out.
So after some thought and research, I bought a couple cans of that spray expanding urethane foam. The tops of the hose from the thru-hull were above the at-rest waterline, but as soon as I pulled them off the thru-hulls there would be a 1"+ hole below waterline. I got everything ready, put on a pair of rubber gloves, and pulled the first hose. Water immediately started gushing into the boat, so I clamped my hand down over it, sealing it with my palm. Then I worked the nozzle of the expanding foam into the mouth of the thru hull under my hand, and let 'er rip with the foam. As it flowed in and expanded, it filled the tube side to side and also outwards towards the water beyond the thruhull, sealing it off very effectively and quickly. It will solidify under water, so in no time at all I had both thru hulls permanently sealed off.
Might not be a bad idea to keep a can or two of this stuff nearby your thru-hulls, just like we do the traditional wooden plugs. :)
Good tip CapnK! I will add it to my bag of "never to be needed" tricks.
"Tiller pilot on a double ender" equation solved.
Also the refrigerator wasn't working and to be able to get the box out so I could fix the problem I had to rip out the original gally module . I am not putting that back so I took the opportunity to replace the Origo meths stove with a propane hob/oven combo. It increases the chance of cooking past pot noodles and hotdogs.
That is a very well designed piece of stainless tubing. Wide radius turns, attach at logical points, and the tiller socket at the ideal location. A difficult challenge neatly overcome.
Do you have a wired remote control, or tie into your GPS to remotely "push the buttons"? Mine did not connect to a GPS, but I did have a remote push button, which was particularly useful when motoring in truly foul conditions.
I do not put a lot of faith in "sealed water tight" equipment, and make a practice of passing a very long, slim plastic bag over the pilot, from the ram end, and securing the open end with a strong rubber band near the opposite end. The tiller pin simply punches in. This provides a very effective rain coat to keep spray, rain, and fog from getting to the unit and testing whether there is any leak path. A single bag lasts a whole trip for me, 3 to 5 days. My source is the bag my morning paper comes in when rain is expected, so recycling!
Mine has served me well on 3 boats, and is still like new.
The galley plan is promising! An oven is a pleasant luxury.
.
Norman
Thanks Norman!
The plastic bag is a great idea that I will copy! I haven't read up on the specific functions of the TP but it connects to my chartplotter so it can steer along a plotted course. The remote control is an optional extra that I may get when I feel the need.
I have obviously completely abandoned the KISS-principle in exchange for all the comforts and necessary aids that my health requires. My excuse is that I will be in the north sea rather than the Bahamas.
It is absolutely astonishing both how much more space than anticipated things need but also the amount of different systems that go into a small sailboat! Fresh water, sea water, drains, propane stove, refrigerator, head, holding tank, bilge pumps, electrics, solar panels, navigation, navlights, VHF, heater, engine, fuel, windlass, anchors, running rigging...
I feel I could just as well be building a space shuttle.
Engine is back in place. It's heavier than I remembered.
Plans are being made...
Model tweaked to final size and shape.
Looks good
Always best to mock up" to get the look right,
Will be neat to see the finished product
Have fun!!
I am in complete agreement with Mr Frank. :D