Our little Optimist, s/v eclipse
, had sustained bow corner damage accumulated from both previous and current owners. A short section, only a few inches, had rotted and via collisions (with docks, generally) been knocked away.
After chiseling out the damaged section:
The filler on the hull under the corner was from a PO's previous repair. That needed some tending as well.
To repair this, my daughter liked the idea of using a piece of teak from Gaelic Sea
's old sea hood frame, so I cut a piece off. To fit, the piece had to be cut on a compound angle, but the problem was evident that the Opti bow curves just enough there that a straight piece of wood this short would not bend into place without splitting something (either the repair piece or something on the boat that it was being clamped to).
So, I decided to try my hand at steam bending.
I transferred the shape of the hull at the repair location to a piece of scrap plywood, and used that to make a mold to bend on the repair piece. I simply laid the plywood template of the curve onto the edge of my mold piece and chiseled away until I got to a final sanding stage. The two pieces fit pretty good for 'hand shaping.'
The plywood template and the pine mold piece:
The straight repair piece clamped to the mold showing how much bend is required. It may not seem like much, but the teak just would not make that bend.
It took me a few tries to find a way to steam the repair piece; one attempt had the piece steamed (in the pressure cooker) and clamped directly to the mold piece, but all that did was bend the mold piece even though the teak was steamed!
So, I put a 1" thick mahogany scrap backing block on the mold and used that to clamp the (re-)steamed teak repair piece to it. Left-to-right: mahogany backer, pine mold, teak repair piece. Two big screw clamps were used as primary shapers and one additional c-clam was used to pull in the back corner (c-clam barely visible behind second screw clamp):
Pulling the teak off the mold after 'setting,' it did not seem bent but fit the hull quite well (MUCH better than before bending). The piece was then epoxied in place using WEST thickened with silica; the surrounding plywood was also "sealed" with the epoxy mixture at this stage:
After curing, I shaped the piece with a combination of hand chiseling and a hand plane, and once I got 'close,' I went after it with a sander.
After final fairing and sanding to 180 grit and ready for paint, I was quite happy with the joint lines: