Single hand in the Gulf of Mexico

[CharlieJ]

May have posted this before, but browsing around, just found it, so gonna post it again. This was in 2011 when I was bringing Tehani back singlehand from the Chesapeake

Tarpon Springs to Apalachacola.. Or "crossing the armpit"

Also known as "the missing link"..Because of the very shallow waters that extend a long way off shore there is no Intercoastal Waterway between these two points. Actually between Tarpon Springs and Carrabelle, but it's just a short distance more to Apalachacola, so I chose that .

You can short hop from place to place, but that would take 4 or 5 days. I chose to cut across. I had wished for crew but not finding anyone, I did it singlehand.

Let me say here that although I had more wind than forecast, and larger seas than predicted, I wasn't in any serious danger, just quite uncomfortable at times.

So- on to the crossing--

Awoke Saturday morning, my day of departure, to almost no wind, cloudy skies and drizzle. Made ready to leave anyway. Got the sail covers off and all below stowed for sea, and at 0830, cranked the engine and dropped the dock lines. Began motoring out the long channel from the dock and at 0930, reached the open gulf, set the sails, engaged the tillerpilot (Albert), and shut down the engine, as the winds were now blowing N at about 8-10.

At noon I had to begin motor-sailing again. Winds had dropped away and I needed to maintain about a 5 knot speed so as to reach the Apalachacola channel in the daylight the next day. What wind there was was now N, instead of the forecast NE-E.

By about 1700 the predicted  5-10 knot winds had increased to 10-12 and I shut down the engine again. By 1930, the wind still increased, now maybe 12-16 or so, on a close reach. Was  of course dark by now and the seas were building. The boat was sailing pretty fast, I couldn't see the waves, so I reefed the main to slow us a bit. GPS still was indicating 6-6.5 boat speed. Later on, as the wind built even more (forecast was for "moderating") to somewhere around 18, and as the seas were continuing to increase,  I decided to drop the main. Still making 5.5- 5.8 under just the jib.

Up until around 2200 the winds stayed quite stiff and the seas continued to increase, and began to crest. Awful sounds when one comes up behind you and crests RIGHT off the transom!! I was , at this point just about at the half way point.

Between 2200 and 0500 at times I was seriously concerned about losing the dinghy I was towing. I had it snubbed up very close to the transom which kept it from sliding past me on a cresting sea and jerking to a stop, at which point it could have easily capsized. Even at that, at times I could see the entire floor of the dink as it was up on a sea, then it would go totally out of sight on the backside.

Sleeping during all this time was in 15 to 20 minute snatches, using a timer to wake me to check course and surroundings. Albert thankfully continued to do a fine job.

By 0530 things were settling down. Winds were dropping, seas were no longer cresting, although still large. and my speed was way down. Cranked the engine and motorsailed on a very broad reach. No main since that would have just blanketed the jib and it was to rough for me to want to set the pole. Could have-didn't want to. Probably too tired ;)

At 0700, with 50 miles to go I watched the sun come up over the empty Gulf. At 0800 discovered that the forward foot of the jib track had torn away from the rail and was bent upwards, with the jib car out at the end. Got it pushed down far enough to get the car moved aft of the bend. Would work for off-wind- NOT for beating.

Winds continued dropping and came way aft. almost no wind in the sail, so I dropped the jib and continued with just the engine. BORING!!! At that point I was about 25 miles out from the seabuoy.

By around 1400 I spotted buildings ashore, called "land ho!!" and at 1500 I passed the seabuoy and entered the channel into Apalachicola Bay with a large following swell running. (more on that later) That channel is NOT a great one and had the seas been any larger, could have been really nasty. As it was, it was a TAD squirrely. ;D Has rocks along each side and is quite narrow. Fortunately only about a quarter mile long and you're in Apalachicola Bay.

At 1705 one tired old dude tied up to the docks at Water Street Marina in Apalachicola. Laura and I had been here in 2009. Nice friendly place. Got a hot shower, fixed a sandwich from leftovers, and crashed. Slept 10 solid hours which is a rare event for me.

On those swells- When Laura and I left here in 2009, we were bound for Cedar Key. The very large swells running were then on our beam causing the boat to roll miserably, so we altered course for Tarpon Springs, which put them on the starboard bow, and made for a MUCH more pleasant ride. This time they were dead on my stern and large. But strange. I was running in mostly 2-3 foot seas, but looking aft, could see a set build- maybe 5-6 waves just rose up and rolled towards me.Can't really say how big, but when you are sitting in a cockpit, with your eyes about 5 feet above the water, and you can't see over the waves, they damned sure ain't 3 footers!!  I'd guess most were 6, with the very occasional  7-8.  Smooth though- no breaking, no cresting.. I was in 150 feet of water, so they weren't feeling bottom. Couple of folks I talked to here commented that that happens often.

Anyway- this was my first singlehand, overnight , open ocean passage. I'm glad I did it, glad I had the experience, but really don't want to do it again. Much much better with two aboard. I admire the long distance single handers, just don't want to BE one. Overnighters are enough for me and I want someone to talk to. Nearly went nuts those last 25 miles, motoring in;D

Over all the trip was 177.7 miles, took 29 hours seabuoy to seabuoy, and 32.5 hours dock to dock. Almost exactly the same time as when L and I sailed the other way in 2009.

Oh- and when I got in and tied up, reached into the icebox for a beer- and it slipped out of my hand??? Found that a jar of olive spread, made in olive oil, had had the lid come off! The entire interior of the icebox was liberally coated with olive oil. So the next day I soap and water washed all the contents, and after picking all the bits of olive out, washed the box interior. What a MESS!!

[Frank]

Enjoyed reading your account CJ.
Yes.....long, multi mile overnight solo passages are unique.
Having done a few, I can attest it's both easier and more enjoyable with a partner. When "total exhaustion" sets in.....a mind does wierd things...
Can't discribe...Ya have to have "been there" ....and I know you have...

[CharlieJ]

Well Frank- the premise of the site is small boat, long distance.

Sadly, we have lost many who (through death in some cases) who originally were here-
Connie,, S/V Faith, and others. We've now got many want to be's ( and I assure you that's not a derogatory term, cause I was a wanna be once, as were you) .I just hope the tale inspires a few to go DO it

Better to be a wanna be, than an  I don't care :)

[CharlieJ]

Picture for Jim, on chat

[CharlieJ]

An other- tiller pilot driving, under sail first day,, 100 miles offshore