Am I losing my mind, or what?
I swear I read a thread/post (with pics) here on SailFar about someone building or rebuilding their bridgedeck. I can't find that thread. I used the search function - which I like very much, by the way - without success.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks.
Bob,
Don't remember it, but I will look,
Bob,
Don't remember it, but I will look,
(on edit)
Take a look at this thread. (http://sailfar.net/forum/index.php?topic=835.0)
Craig,
Thanks for looking. I remember (and re-read) that post because Prelude (being a flush deck design) shares many of the Tartan-Ten issues and concerns.
The thread I remember had pics showing the installation of an access hatch in the top of a newly constructed bridgedeck. I sure wish I could find that thread. I'll keep looking.
I'm not ready to start another project - I've got several in the works already - but the ideas keep coming whether I'm ready or not! In the meantime, I have plenty to keep me busy.
Thanks again.
I think I know what thread you're thinking of. However, I believe it was a new cockpit sole locker that had the new access hatch that was pictured, not a bridgedeck. I'm in the process of designing a bridgedeck for my boat, since she doesn't have one at the moment, and I think it is a good idea for several reasons.
First, installing a bridgedeck will make the volume of the cockpit smaller, which reduces the amount of water it will hold if the boat is pooped.
Second, it will help prevent water from downflooding into the cabin from the cockpit.
Third, it will give me a fair amount of additional storage, which is rather scarce on my little boat.
I will probably use 1/4" plywood as the core and then build around it. I was planning on glassing in the two vertical dividers first, then mounting cleats to them, and then screwing down the top to the cleats and then glassing over the top.
Dan,
I agree with you on the advantages of a bridgedeck. I've had water back-flow into the cockpit when on a broad reach (the boat really squats down) and had to bail to keep water out of the cabin. Watching that happen, I wondered what to do about it... sometimes the obvious isn't. My thread (more specifically, I think one of your posts in that thread) about the design "flaws" of the Columbia Challenger and the thread (Kevin's?) about the Tartan-Ten (with similar "flaws") brought the realization that I could solve the problem by building a bridgedeck. In conjunction with a new bridgedeck I plan to reduce the size of the companionway from its current 36" x 30" cavern-like dimensions (for obvious reasons).
I'll be interested in following your design and build project so I can learn how it should be done.
Thanks.
Quote
I'll be interested in following your design and build project so I can learn how it should be done.
Bob-
You're being far too kind.... more like what mistakes not to make... ;)
I converted our Lindesey 21 from a conpanionway that went to the bottom of the cockpit, to a bridge deck. I don't have pics of the project, but I can describe it and or email you a scanned sketch.
I also reduced the companionway opening on Tehani from 32 x 32 down to a reasonable 24 by 24, and added a seahood. Those pics I do have.
CharlieJ-
I'd love for you to send or post a description or sketch. :D
Thanks,
Dan
Quote from: AdriftAtSea on April 30, 2007, 10:11:38 AM
CharlieJ-
I'd love for you to send or post a description or sketch. :D
Thanks,
Dan
Add me to the list of watchers looking for info.
A bridge deck is high up on the list of updates on my Gramp.
Ok- I'll work on putting something together as soon as I can- it'll take a couple of days. Monday and Tuesday is our weekend, so I'll be busy on weekend type things ;D
Charlie,
I'd appreciate seeing the pictures and reading your description of how to go about constructing a bridgedeck. I look forward to your post.
I've got a 3-step project in mind: Reduce the size of the companionway. Install a bridgedeck. Install a seahood.
Quote from: BobW on April 30, 2007, 09:45:52 PM
I'd appreciate seeing the pictures and reading your description of how to go about constructing a bridgedeck. I look forward to your post.
Ditto.
Kevin
Here's a picture of Prelude's companionway. The opening measures 36" across the top, 35" across the bottom, and 30" high. The cockpit seats are 11" high at the forward end.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/BobWessel/Companionway.jpg)
I'd like to reduce the size of the companionway to roughly 24" wide by 24" high (take out one hatch board plus a little), and then build the bridgedeck between the cockpit seats. I think I'd use the space as a third cockpit locker - maybe stow the fenders and dock lines there while underway.
Of course narrowing the companionway means rebuilding the hatch, but then I'll have room to install a seahood. :-)
Bob -
Just a thought here: what about if you made a 'semi-permanent hatchboard' to accomplish making the opening smaller?
A squared-off "U" shape, the vertical arms being 6" wide, the bottom being the height needed to raise the sill an appropriate distance, with a mounting flange around it's outside edges. Remove the wood slats the current boards sit in, and screw-and-glue it into place against the current companionway opening edges.
You could do a similar thing with the sliding hatch, making the seahood a part of the new construct.
It seems that it might be easier to construct them off the boat and install with screws/bolts and 42/5200/PU than it would be to construct them as an integral part of the house.
BTW, I have a nice bridgedeck on the Ariel, but will be building a locker in at the forward end of the footwell. It'll stow the propane tank, and cut down on how much water can be scooped up by the cockpit. Since I don't anticipate hosting large cocktail parties, I think I can get by just fine with a little less foot space. :)
Just build a lower hatchboard and caulk it into place for a passage. It would be good to add a crossbar securely fastened to the companionway sides to strengthen the cabin top a bit.
I thought about doing a permanent hatchboard, but decided that I wanted to reduce the cockpit size a bit and give myself a bit more storage space. Trimarans are generally short on storage, since the bilge on my boat is about two inches deep... The cabin settees are built on the hull flare and have basically no space beneath them either...
Okay, I really am getting ahead of myself. I need to be planning another project right now like I need another root canal... But I've got so many works-in-progress, one more isn't going to hurt - is it?
Kurt, your suggested "squared-off U" is exactly what I've had in mind. I don't need to build a flange into the insert as there already is one in the companionway. This is an old pic, and much of the mess in the pic has been repaired.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/BobWessel/Companionway3.jpg)
I figure 3/4" ply cut to size and epoxied in place. I can cut the existing hatch boards down to the new size.
What I hadn't figured out was how to narrow the hatch. Charlie did a good job explaining and illustrating how he did Tehani's hatch, but I've been leery of trying to lay up FG. Your suggestion of using the same technique for the hatch as the companionway is a good one. I can cut a piece to rest on and span the existing hatch slide rails (see the pic) and brace it in the middle to eliminate sag. I'll then have a good platform to install a sea hood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/BobWessel/102804CabinTop.jpg)
Ignore the disgraceful condition of the cabin top - I had just removed the hatch to find that mess. Rainwater collects there and in the right conditions spill into the cabin! That problem will be eliminated with this project.
Thanks for the idea, and solving a problem. :)
A permanent bridgedeck might be nice to have--on rare occasions. The rest of the time its going to be an inconvenience getting in and out of the cabin.
I would go with a removable "storm board." Cut out a piece of plywood the height of your two lower boards. When needed, you could secure it in place with barrel bolt locks or something.
On the sea hood, you can see some examples I came across when I was building mine here
http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=948
Its going to be a problem on your boat because a sea hood would limit how far you can open the sliding hatch, and you'll bang your head more than usual
(http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussion/attachment.php?attachmentid=3450&stc=1&d=1152544775)
Bob- I haven't forgotten about ya on the sketches. It's just been a really busy week, and now it's the weekend and the Duckworks Messabout is cranking up at our beach, 5 blocks from the house. If you'll remember, down by the cabanas. The first boats began rolling in last evening, so I'll be looking at and messing with boats this weekend ;D
I narrowed Tehani's companionway from 32 inches square, down to 24 inches square. When the slide is all the way open, you have about 22 inches- no problem whatso ever. Also, when we added the bridge deck on the other boat, we found it gave us MORE room. More sitting room in the cockpit and more room inside the boat. So it's a difference for sure, but it's really not terribly inconvienient.
Quote from: CharlieJ on May 04, 2007, 09:42:53 AM
Also, when we added the bridge deck on the other boat, we found it gave us MORE room. More sitting room in the cockpit and more room inside the boat. So it's a difference for sure, but it's really not terribly inconvienient.
That's kind of what I was hoping would be the case on my boat. :D
Both the ariel and suncat had bridgedecks...the flicka's is so short its useless.I quite liked that larger erea and found it handy for many things..charts,wine,sitting,wine,cooking,wine,books,wine and a variety of other wine based functions ::)
Cmdr Pete -
Thanks for the comments, link, and pics. Gives me another perspective and something to think about. Last night when I Googled "sea hood," one of the hits was the link you included with your post.
I realize a sea hood will marginally reduce how far forward the hatch cover will slide. But I already bump my head on the hatch cover, particularly when I forget to stow the padlock!
Charlie -
Enjoy the Duckworks Messabout! Yes, I remember the beach and the cabanas just 5 blocks from your place. Hopefully, the weather cooperates and it'll be a great weekend. Take and share lots of pics. :-) The sketches and your input can wait. I'm not building this project this weekend!
Quote from: Frank on May 04, 2007, 05:20:57 PM
...and a variety of other wine based functions ::)
LOL, Frank! Gotta have priorities, right? ;D
Got started on the bridgedeck today... bought 3/8" plywood for it and cut it up for the two major pieces of the bridgedeck. Originally, I was going to have the bridgedeck be the same height as the cockpit seats, but have since decided it would be easier and better to have the cockpit be the same height as the cockpit step, rather than the bridgedeck. This way it'll close off less of the companionway, and be easier to build. I'll post some photos once I've gotten it roughed in.
Dan,
Glad to hear you got the project started. Looking forward to more on your progress - construction details - and the pics.
Yes, Dan - do post some pics. Try as I might, I can't get my head around your description, lol. I need to go look at some pics of the cockpit, maybe then I'll understand. :)
Capn K-
If you look at this photo (http://telstartrimarans.com/Images/P8141100.JPG), you can see the water deck fill on the second step. The port first step has the port genoa sheets piled on it... that would be the level of the bridgedeck I am planning on building, instead of making it as high as the cockpit seats...which is about six inches higher than the step.
I hope that helps a bit.
Well, played hooky from work today to get started on the Bridge Deck project. Here are two photos of what I've gotten done so far. I still have to screw the cleats to support the structure in place, and then glass it in, but this should give you an idea of what I'm doing.
The structure in the photo is not going to be the final Bridge Deck, as I am going to do something slightly different for the final installation. Instead of using the smaller piece you see for the top of the bridge deck, I'm going to use a single 1/2" sheet of plywood that goes all the way across, and fills in both step areas... as this will add a lot of strength and rigidity to the cockpit area and help reinforce the aft aka beam.
However, it still means moving the deck fill for the water tank, but that was going to be the case any way I did it. I hope this clarifies what I meant by making the bridge deck the height of first step, rather than the cockpit seats.
I will be installing the cleats and hopefully glassing in the whole thing on Saturday.
(http://flauntintimates.com/assets/07Projects1.jpg)
(http://flauntintimates.com/assets/07Projects2.jpg)
I also have a photo of my cockpit stereo speaker installation.
The speakers aren't behind deckplates as I originally planned, but the space they open over does not let water into the boat, but into the rudder quadrant space, and doesn't really cause any danger of flooding, if the speakers should be punched out if the cockpit gets pooped. The stereo system has a cockpit mounted waterproof remote, which you can see on the starboard cockpit seat.
(http://flauntintimates.com/assets/07Projects3.jpg)
Dan -
Looks good.
How wide is it between the seats? Good idea to run that top piece all the way across the steps.
Do you plan a frame or other support in the middle?
I'd like to extend the top piece on mine across the top of the seats but then I'd have a ridge on the seats...unless I could fair it into the seats... I'll have to give that some thought.
BobW-
The top piece in the photo is 48" wide. I'm not going to use a frame, but if you look in the companionway, you'll see that there is a 5" piece going across the companionway, which will be epoxied and glassed to the top piece as well as the companionway frame itself...so that should provide plenty of support and eliminate any need for a frame or support in the middle.
I only thought of running the piece all the way across after seeing how the preliminary model worked out. By running the top piece across the entire width, I gain a inch of height in the locker, reinforce the boat for the ama-related stresses, and eliminate the need for putting in cleating blocks for the top, since it is fully supported by the steps already—simplifying the installation.
I am going to epoxy coat the top board, which will be 1/2" plywood and then glass it in as the first step. It will be glassed in to the top of the steps as well as to the lower steps underneath.
The companionway piece will be a 1/2" piece of plywood which will be routed along the edges, so that it is flush with the interior of the cabin side of the companionway. This will be the second step. It will be glassed to the back and front of the companionway, as well as the top and bottom of the deck piece.
The last piece will be the slanted piece that seals off the cockpit from the bridgedeck/locker. I plan on installing cleats on the port and starboard sides as well as one on the cockpit sole. These cleats will be made of either Starboard or composite decking material. They are going to be temporary, until the external glassing and epoxying is done. I plan on glassing the interior after removing the cleats.
The last things I have to do are to figure out how to extend the deck fill for the water tank up through the bridgedeck and what kind of closure/doors to install for the new bridgedeck locker in the cabin. I also have to either paint or gelcoat the bridgedeck. Originally, I was thinking of gelcoating it, using a mold I'm going to make of the non-skid surface of the same pattern as the cockpit sole, using a silicone mold.
Well, the fiberglass and other supplies I needed to start glassing in the bridge deck arrived UPS this morning, so I'm off to the marina to start on the installation. I hope to finish most of it this weekend.
Dan -
I'll be interested to see how your plan works. The distance bewteen my cockpit seats is about the same as yours. I was/am planning to use at least one frame and maybe two to keep the top of the bridge deck from flexing too much. Maybe I don't need to worry about that... but it will be walked on and sat upon so I want it to be sturdy.
Post pics of the progress.
BobW-
Since, I couldn't find a piece of 1/2" plywood that I liked, so I ended up using a piece of 3/4" plywood...technically it is 23/32"—whatever.
This should stiff enough to bridge a 48" span and support pretty much any weight I would put on it... given that I am fiberglassing over it and adding a lip to the companionway edge of it and supporting the aft edge of it by the aft panel of the bridge deck locker—effectively making it an laminated angle, rather than just a flat span.
According to the Sagulator (http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm), a 5.5" x 23/32" x 23" plywood board on edge—which is the measurement of the companionway edge coaming—will deflect less than 0.01" under a 500 lb. load. The aft bulkhead of the bridgedeck is a 5.5" x 3/8" x 29" plywood board at a 17˚ angle from vertical—and if it was vertical it would deflect 0.04" under the 500 lb. load.
Several people I've spoken to about it have said that 1/2" plywood would have been more than sufficient for the job, and 23/32" plywood is going to be overkill.
For the lamination process—I am adding three layers of 6 oz. fiberglass cloth to the bridge deck top surface, and two layers underneath. I plan on using three layers of 6 oz. fiberglass cloth on the aft bulkhead as well. The joints will be filleted with thickened West Systems Epoxy. The top board will be bedded in thickened epoxy with the edges filleted in as well. Each panel will be laminated to the cockpit on all four sides—effectively creating a hollow three-sided beam across the front end of the cockpit.
Today, I sanded the gel-coat in all the areas that will be laminated over as well as removing the non-skid surface from what will become the interior of the locker. I picked up a Hitachi random orbital sander to do the work with—it's worth every cent. I also finished cutting the top piece of the bridge deck to size.
Dan -
Those numbers are convincing. Makes me rethink the need for frames to support the top piece.
My original thought was to use my bridge deck as a cockpit locker inaccessable from the cabin. That means adding a hatch with attendant hardware. I may change that plan, eliminate the hatch and hardware, and take advantage of the storage.
Thanks for the information. I'll look forward to the pictures.
BobW-
Got the bridge deck top board glassed in with the first layer of glass. I wish it were warmer, since the epoxy is taking forever to cure.
Unfortunately, I won't be able to work on the project for a couple of days... which means I have to wash the amine blush off the epoxy and sand it lightly before I can continue.
I also cut the companionway rails down to fit the new, shorter companionway. It looks like it will come together nicely.
Next time I go out to the boat, I will add another layer of glass to the top, add a layer of glass underneath the top, and install the three temporary cleats that will support the angled aft panel of the bridge deck. If the epoxy cures enough, I will do the second layer underneath and the third layer on the top.
I'm still debating on how to finish the top. Right now, I'm leaning toward going with a polyureathane paint, instead of gelcoating it. I still have some time to decide though.
Dan -
You are making great progress!
When you commented earlier about glassing both sides of the plywood I pictured you glassing before installation. I haven't much experience with fiberglass, so I am at a loss to understand how it is done on the underside of a panel. Help me out with a description of that process, please.
I'm just a bit jealous as a few small emergencies have kept us from getting out to the boat to work on it. While it feels like time is slipping away, life is too short to get worked up about delays to my boat projects. We'll get out there and get everything done... it'll just take a little longer.
BobW-
While I could have just fiberglassed the exterior of the board, it would not have contributed as much strength to the installation as laying the fiberglass up into the existing cockpit surfaces. For the bridge deck top board to flex, it now has to flex the entire cockpit—which really isn't possible. Likewise, for the cockpit to flex, it has to now bend the 7/8" thick cored laminate bridge deck top panel.
A good way to imagine what I am doing and why is to think of making a very simple wooden bookshelf...
QuoteCut a sheet of 1/2" plywood into eight 4' x 1' wide strips. Take two of them and use them as vertical supports. Now attach three of them as shelves, spaced every 23.5" using simple butt joints and nail them through the vertical sides...
It is a book shelf with three shelves, but not one I'd put much weight on. Also, if you were to push on the top from the side, the thing would not stay square—as it currently is the bookshelf won't resist lateral forces very well. The shelves are dependent on the strength of just each sheet of plywood not splitting where the nails enter them and probably don't support all that much weight. They also don't have any way to resist lateral forces very well.
Now take some thin sheet metal and cut it into strips that measure 3" x 12". Make 18 of these strips and bend them in half length wise and make right-angle braces out of them. Now use twelve of these braces of sheet metal both above and below the shelf, and nail through the sheet metal into the vertical supports and the top and bottom of each shelf. All of a sudden, the shelves aren't dependent on just the physical limits of the plywood not splitting to bear the weight... it is a much sturdier shelf. But it still doesn't resist lateral forces all that well—as not of the components of the shelf can resist the lateral loads in torsion.
Now, take one of the remaining boards, and put it along the center of the back side of the bookshelf and attach it to the three shelves using the remaining six small sheet metal braces. Now the bookshelf is even stronger at resisting weight on the shelves, since they're now supported in the middle as well as the ends...and the entire unit can resist lateral forces much better since the panel going vertically along the back of the bookshelf resists lateral forcdes in torsion.
By epoxying in the board and then adding fiberglass that covers the board and attaches the board to the exisiting cockpit, I've effectively created the same type of support—where the fiberglass acts as the sheet metal braces in the example above. However, to do this, the glassing has to be done with the board in place, which makes the glassing of the board a bit more difficult.
This takes the open cockpit step area and converted it into a large box beam—with two of the four sides being from the existing cockpit—that of the forward bulkhead/companionway and the sole, and two from the bridge deck installation, the aft cross panel and the top cross panel making up the four sides of a laminated fiberglass box. The box beam can't flatten under load, since the cockpit sides, acting as ends on the box beam, prevent the box from changing shape under load.
The board is not only epoxied to the two steps, but filleted along the outside edges, so that the board and the existing cockpit have a solid thickened epoxy connection along the entire perimeter of the board, and then finally, the board is fiberglassed into the existing fiberglass, which was sanded as part of the preparation. I am taking the fiberglass and lapping it up against the sides of the existing cockpit fiberglass. This will effectively turn the board in to an integral part of the cockpit, which can't be removed short of using an axe.
The first layer of the fiberglassing extends up about 1-1/2" along the existing cockpit surfaces, and continues over the entire top surface of the bridge deck board. The second layer will extend up about 3" and the final layer will go about 4.5".
On the underside of the bridge deck board, I am coating the board with epoxy and then adding a layer of fiberglass cloth to the surface... which will go from 1-1/2" vertically along the existing cockpit fiberglass, and then run along the entire lower surface of the bridge deck board and across to the other side and then down vertically 1-1/2" along the opposite side of the cockpit. The second layer will extend 3" along each of the existing sides of the cockpit steps. While this is not really necessary, and a bit overkill... it does effectively turn the plywood into the core of a 7/8" thick fiberglass laminated beam.
Then, the two other pieces, the companionway threshold and the aft angled panel will both be glassed in the same way.
This also makes it far less likely that the bridge deck or bridge deck locker will leak at all.
Dan -
Wow! Didn't expect such a detailed explanation of the "why." I appreciate the time and effort to provide the information.
My question was really more mundane... How do you apply FG cloth on a horizontal overhead surface, particularly when working in such a restricted space?
I won't be starting my bridge deck until after completing the motor lift (no, no progress on that this weekend), but your experience and information will be invaluable when I do start. Thanks.
BobW-
The epoxy resin is fairly viscous and a thin enough coating will stick to the underside of the bridge deck board and will effectively hold the fiberglass to it. Too much resin will cause it to sag and drip... so applying just enough to wet out the glass is the trick. The cloth adds support since I run it down the sides of the existing cockpit, and that helps quite a bit too. I'm doing about half the depth of the cockpit locker at a time, one half at a time, so the glass I'm using is about 9" wide by 42" or so.
BTW, was down at the marina today and got the aft panel in, with one layer of glass. Unfortunately, I don't have the fast hardener, just the slow... and curing times are running a bit longer than I'd like. If it doesn't warm up a bit, I might have to go get some fast hardener. :D
Small cheap fan heater.
Lowest heat setting. Works a treat. Get a humidity meter, different humidity when hand laying up glass layers between layers will cause more delamination then anything else that can lurk and be scary with fibreglassing.
Alex-
Would use a heater if I had a good AC source there, but I don't. At least not one that would work reliably, since any extension cord I had would be constantly unplugged and re-plugged in as they move other boats around in the yard. My boat is about as far as you could possibly put it from any outlet in the place... so any way I run a cord, would be the long way around.
What do you mean by humidity meter.... like an atmospheric humidity meter, like a sling hygrometer??
Dan,
If you're using WEST epoxy, and not trying to get a heat cure (as used in carbon/epoxy masts) the requirements for external heat should be rather small. You only need to get the reaction started. If its a sunny day, you probably can get enough heat inside the closed box just by taping a black trash bag or two over the outside and letting the sun beat on it for a while. Once the WEST epoxy starts to kick, there's no stoppin' it!
Kevin
Good to know... thanks Ol' Coot.
I've gotten the beast all glassed in and hope to have it faired and sanded this weekend. I just ordered Interlux Interdeck paint for it, and hope to be painting it on Wednesday or so of next week.
Good for you..the worst is over.Painting is the easy part....its that darn prep work that kills ya :-[ If, in final sanding you get frustrated...go away for a while...it always seems easier after. Pictures...we NEED pictures ;)
Oh, if only it were true... :( Painting, varnishing - heck, any finishing work is the bane of my existance. I guess I need to repeat the mantra...
- Painting is the easy part...
- Painting is the easy part...
- Painting is the easy part...
How long will it take for me to believe this to be true? ;D
Frank-
Unfortunately, I'm not done with the fairing and sanding yet... :( I've got the camera charged up and will try to remember to take some photos of the setup. I'm headed back down to the marina tomorrow. :) Paint won't be in until Tuesday from what I've been told—so I've got until then to get the sanding and fairing done. :D
I haven't finished the painting, but I did get to try out the bridge deck yesterday, since I put the Pretty Gee in the water and went for the first sail of the season. The taping of the new water line seems to be about perfect, but I have to re-apply the tape on three of the six sides... since some of the tape decided to come off while we were sailing... it was a risk, but one I was happy to take. :D
To say the bridge deck has worked out well is an understatement. I love having a fairly large storage area right by the cockpit and galley. It also works quite well as additional seating in the cockpit, and looks like it will have solved all the problems I had previously with water entering the cabin. I am hoping to get the exterior of bridge deck painted and coated with anti-skid this week, but the weather and work may not cooperate. I'll finish up the interior of the bridge deck locker next week, after the boat gets soda blasted.
The construction methods I ended up using is very solid... and it doesn't flex or bend at all. There are no cleats in the final construction, as the only cleat I ended up using was a temporary one to connect the aft panel to the bridge deck top, and that was only needed until the epoxy fillet between the two pieces cured.
Glad it worked out. I miss having a 'usable' one.They really are handy....and safe.
Frank-
I'll try and get some photos of the bridge deck, once I've completed the painting and anti-skid on it. I also still have to fair the interior and paint it, but that's a lower priority, since it isn't as weather dependent.
Dan -
It sounds like a very successful project. I'm looking forward to the pictures.
Unfortunately, the painting keeps getting interrupted by thunderstorms... really good thunderstorms... so I've been working on other projects. I hope that next week will have a few dry days in a row that I can get to the boat during to finish the painting.
Besides the head pumpout project, I've also re-routed the water deck fill. It is now located on the angled aft portion of the bridge deck, and looks quite good there. Having it on the angled section prevents water from pooling around the deck fill, which was a problem where it was located previously.
As part of the bridge deck project, I rebuilt the companionway drop board rails, and added a hand rail to the starboard side of the companion way entrance, as well as added internal fast pins sockets to the drop board rail. This allows me to "lock" the drop boards in the drop board rails. On a monohull, this would be a great addition, since in the case of a knockdown or capsize, it would prevent the boards from falling out. I mainly did it as an additional security measure.
However, in the course of working on these other projects, I've found that the bridge deck, with the additional storage it provides the cabin and the seating it provides the cockpit, has been a great upgrade to the boat's design and functionality.
I still have to make a new companionway ladder and fashion a door for the new bridge deck storage locker. I think I'll make the door for the locker serve two purposes—act as a door, but also function as additonal counter space for the galley when opened.
The work was also delayed by having to do a clean up of the interior of the boat. Soda blasting does a wonderful job of cleaning up the hull's surface and prepping it for painting, but it also finds small vents and can make a major mess of the interior of the boat if you're not careful to seal all of the vents... including small wiring conduits. Oh well, chalk that up as another way to learn about my boat.
Frank-
Should have some photos of the finished bridgedeck for you this week. :D Got it painted this weekend but forgot the camera. :(
Great.looking forward to viewing. nice feeling to get things caught up a bit..sailing is more fun, but dreaming up 'mods' is great too....it's just the 'doing' part that gets ya
Dan - Glad it worked out so well, looking forward to the pics. :)
Sorry the cockpit is such a mess—it is in dire need of cleaning. :D but, here are the photos I promised... The bridgedeck's new companionway threshold comes up to almost exactly the same point as the lowermost drop board used to. Obviously, the lowest drop board isn't used any more.
(http://www.flauntlingerie.com/files/bridgedeck3.jpg)
(http://www.flauntlingerie.com/files/bridgedeck2.jpg)
I had to relocate the water tank deck-fill, and decided to put it on the angled portion of the bridgedeck, since no water will pool around the deck fill, and it is much less likely to get any salt water in the tank.
(http://www.flauntlingerie.com/files/bridgedeck1.jpg)
Looks really sharp, Dan - good job! :)
Thanks CapnK.
A while back, right after I had finished building the bridge deck, I went out sailing with a friend and he had said that the bridge deck really looked like it belonged in the cockpit...not like it was an afterthought... which was important to me. The new locker, being right by the companionway, the galley and nav station has been very convenient.
You can reach in from the cockpit and pull things out of that locker without having to go down into the cabin, which is what you used to have to do, since all the other storage is much further away from the companionway. I was really surprised at how much space is in the locker too.
Q: Wondering - You just reach over and around the forward lip at the C-way to access the space?
Yup...the space under the bridgedeck is open to the cabin. At some point, I plan on adding a door to it...so that I can stuff it full of things and not have them fall out. ;) But I haven't gotten around to doing that or building the new companionway ladder. :D
LOOKIN GOOD !!! Safer-usable ext 'counter'-more interior storage =WIN WIN WIN !! Nice job.
Thanks Frank... I'm very happy with it.... :D Don't see a downside to it...since it actually provides more seating in the cockpit from what I've seen. It was really important to me that the bridgedeck looked like it was part of the design of the boat... rather than just tacked on. I think I've succeeded in that. :D
Dan,
Your bridge deck looks great! I only hope mine turns out as well.
Thanks Bob.
If I had to do it over, I think the only thing I'd change is the anti-skid. I think it would have been a lot more work but it would have looked better if I had molded in the same anti-skid pattern as the rest of the cockpit... but that would have been a lot more work and I don't think my gelcoat skills are up to it. :D
The Ariel has a nice bridge deck as is, but I have extended mine about 2' aft for the last several months to see what it would be like. I like it, lots. So do the CrewDogs. ;) They can sit more comfortably to stare down at me belowdecks... It'll make the amount of water the cockpit can hold a lot less, and still leaves a sizeable space for the feet, if you wanna sit up.
Right now I have just extended the top aft with some wood, basically bridging the cockpit. I have been going back and forth with internal dialog on whether to make the space an internal space (accessible from the cabin) or an external space (accessible from cockpit only).
Maybe I'll just put a head there. Great views! ;D
Hmmmm, extending the bridgedeck really isn't an option with mine because it would then require a contortionist to get below ;D The hard dodger requires bending over as it is.
Aren't your cockpit drains forward also Kurt? I guess you would have to redo them for sure. I am considering adding some in the rear since I will be reworking the laz for the propane locker.
Quote from: Tim on February 26, 2009, 01:03:35 AM
Aren't your cockpit drains forward also Kurt? I guess you would have to redo them for sure. I am considering adding some in the rear since I will be reworking the laz for the propane locker.
I see a couple options for Kurt's bridge deck re-work. The original drains could simply be re-located (new drains attached to the original through hulls). THey could be moved aft like CJ has done, or a combination of the two. Someone on the Ariel site had added a single drain aft, which IMHO is a good place for a drain.
Keep in mind that stern squat underway is pretty common on Alberg drawn boats, and I suspect also on Rhodes. The overhangs do not really produce much buoyancy until they are under water. If the boat floats level, sailing into chop will tend to raise the bow slightly, and motoring certainly lowers the stern (worse if you are throttled up). Crew in the cockpit will be a factor also.
It seem to me that it is more likely if you block off a couple feet of your cockpit well, since you will tend to sit aft. One other concern with extending the bridge deck is your 'driving' position. I tend to stay forward, both for trim sake and to take advantage of the dodger. For me, the stowage behind the bridge deck was not a good fit, I sure like the idea of it though.
When we are in a situation where we'll be motoring long distances, we carry a pair of 5 gallon fuel jugs forward in the cockpit. One each side of the compass. Otherwise that space is empty.
We both hate having them there but I absolutely refuse to set any kind of jugs on the side decks and lashed to stanchions.
On one trip to Florida, we carried the jugs while crossing La, then gave several away in Florida. That was back when we had a 2 stroke engine and HAD to carry a bunch more fuel than we do now, with the 4 stroke.
And My Bad- ::)
I just realized reading this that I never posted the pics I promised, although I did post pics of the companionway rebuild somewhere. I'll see if I can get them together later today.
One thing I've found with my bridgedeck is that it gave me more usable seating in the cockpit. Where the steps were located, wasn't usable since they were too narrow for most people. The bridgedeck added a four-foot wide bench at the front of the cockpit that is out of the way of the helmsman.
Yep, sticking them aft, a la Tehani. Big ones, too! :)
Also going to build up the forward edge of the remaining cockpit floor to help the water go that way. Side bonus - it'll stiffen up the floor (not that I have noticed any flexing, but other Ariel owners have remarked on that...)
Tehani's were originally aft, in each corner of the cockpit- tiny ones. They drained into the well. Here's a pic of the original hole I think it was 5/8ths, maybe 3/4. The new ones are 1 5/8 ID.
The boat came with two 1.5" cockpit drains, I've increased it to three. The newer Telstars have a really nice cockpit drain—a 8" wide x 1" high slot that passes through the transom to the swim platform, which probably drains even faster than my three drains do. :)