Before painting on Mariah can begin I need to decide on certain deck hardware. The PO had put 3 (count them #) deckplates on the bow.
(http://www.pbase.com/morningdove/image/116087427/medium.jpg)
One I have used for my solar vent, and another I had planned on my Hawse pipe. But the 4" hole will be too large for the pipe, so I need to decide whether to put another hole in the center (where a dingy chock is presently) or go to the trouble of filling then cutting a new sized hole where one of the existing ones are. Keep in mind I have a complete lazzerette rebuild to do already.
I hate to say it Tim, but since you asked....
I would fill in all 3 of the holes. >:(
I can't imagine what the PO was up to with all those holes in the foredeck, but to two forward seem too far fwd, and too large. The hole for the chain ought to be small so water does not pour through when you are on the hook and it rains.
The original Ariel set up with the air scoop was a reasonable compromise, and it allowed the chain to stow easily. If the third hole (not really visible in the picture) is for an air scoop then you can use that. I went with the 1.5" chain opening with the cap that has a cut out for the chain to pass through.
Like this one from Go to Marine (http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=100009F). For 20 bucks it is better then what I have since the cap in hinged (mine is on a chain).;
(http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structure/1/0/0/0/100009F-f.jpg)
I struggled with the idea of going with this one;
(http://www.go2marine.com/docs/1/1/5/3/115359F-f.jpg)
The larger one is better to prevent the chain from getting twisted below decks and requiring a trip below to sort out. This has only happened once aboard Faith, so I am pretty happy with my choice.
Does your dingy actually ride on the foredeck there?
Pretty cool.
:( Darn right out of the gate I hear what I don't want to hear ;D
Here is another shot with the hawes pipe I intended to put in, my understanding is it is the original..?..
I put the solar vent in last year when it was sitting down on the bay.
(http://www.pbase.com/morningdove/image/116093233/medium.jpg)
If you don't want to fill in all of the holes.. you can always mount the hawse pipe in one of the deck plates. That's what I've done on my boat and it seems to work fairly well. I'd point out that if you're planning on adding a windlass, the windlass location will often determine where the hawse pipe has to go.
Hey! What a timely post. I have to say, Tim, that is a lot of big holes up front. Once you get some cleats, chocks a couple of lines and your own two feet how in the world would you be able to use any of those deck plates? Being the pipe will essentially always be 'open' allbeit only to a small extent wouldn't it be wise to go with the smallest hole practical? Craig's on the mark. Fill 'em in then cut you own hole as you want, where you want.
Where are you planning on storing her rode? Are you going to use the original locker as set up? Maybe drain it overboard like Geoff or Frank did? What about 'pipe' it to right about where the factory water tank sits. Nice and low.
I opted for Craig's 'other choice' but only out of dumb luck on my part. I don't think your hawse was a factory option on the Ariel, but I have been wrong before.
Now if someone could just lead me through the whole pipe and locker part with pictures of course.
Quote from: AdriftAtSea on August 14, 2009, 06:34:02 PM
If you don't want to fill in all of the holes.. you can always mount the hawse pipe in one of the deck plates. That's what I've done on my boat and it seems to work fairly well. I'd point out that if you're planning on adding a windlass, the windlass location will often determine where the hawse pipe has to go.
The problem is the existing holes are too large for the hawes pipe I have already.
(http://www.pbase.com/morningdove/image/116093233/medium.jpg)
Quote from: Capt. Tony on August 14, 2009, 06:38:41 PM
Where are you planning on storing her rode? Are you going to use the original locker as set up? Maybe drain it overboard like Geoff or Frank did? What about 'pipe' it to right about where the factory water tank sits. Nice and low.
Now if someone could just lead me through the whole pipe and locker part with pictures of course.
Shoot Tony I was hoping you would get yours done so I could copy it ;)
I have pretty much resigned myself to filling in holes as they were not done properly and would be a place for core damage if left. I guess I will probably fabricate a locker shelf with a drain, I would like to have something that could be removed and still be accessible from inside.
For what it is worth.... ( you know I was gonna say something...) ;)
I had planned two different designs... one I tried and was not happy with. The other (thankfully) never got past the design stage.
I think the standard Alberg drawn design is pretty functional.
Some move (or propose moving) the rode aft to distribute the weight (sometimes going with a couple hundred feet of chain). I like it in theory, but it had better work without a hitch in execution. If the rode is stowed below decks you had better be able to get to it easily. The more room it has (especially with chain / rope) the better.
Our SOP was to raise anchor and leave the rode on deck for a little bit. A rinse with a bucket left very little to need to drain.
I did use the extra volume of the locker to stow my extra rode, and my storm rode. I kept them in bags so they would not tangle with the working rode.... after using it like this I do not think I will change it. Might add a door to the locker at some point in the future but that is about it.
-------------------------
In case anyone recalls my prior plan to divide the locker fore and aft with a small area for wet foul wx gear.. the mock up proved the idea unusable if not down right dumb. Hope no one ever tries to borrow THAT one.. :P
You're missing the point. The hawse pipe generally doesn't have much reason to be all that structurally solid... so you can cut out a section of one of the deckplates, that go in the holes you've already got in the deck, and then mount the hawse pipe in the deck plate itself. My hawse pipe is mounted in the deckplate that is shown in this photo, which was taken about a week before I added the hawse pipe to the deckplate.
(http://dankim.com/assets/tackle.jpg)
Quote from: Tim on August 14, 2009, 07:04:21 PM
The problem is the existing holes are too large for the hawes pipe I have already.
(http://www.pbase.com/morningdove/image/116093233/medium.jpg)
I see now Dan, you are suggesting I mount the hawes pipe into the deck plate itself. the concept of being able to close it off entirely during storage is a good one.
Unfortunately the current pipe I have is too large for the plate but too small for the hole. (http://www.pbase.com/morningdove/image/116093233/medium.jpg)
Quote from: Tim on August 14, 2009, 08:03:17 PM
........I have pretty much resigned myself to filling in holes as they were not done properly and would be a place for core damage if left......
I think you hit the nail on the head here. Fill them in Tim. You may well really regret it later if water gets into the foredeck core.
Yes, I am fortunate my Ariel has never seen core damage and I want to keep it that way ;)
I have anchored in places and pulled up my anchor and the mud stunk so bad that I would not want to have that stuff inside my boat. My anchor chain/rode locker is not inside the boat.
I know of a lot of people who put their chain on deck and rinse off before putting below deck.
When underway in seas - your bow will be underwater far to much. You do not need anything that will come loose up there where you will have to go forward to plug because of great amounts of water comming in. How strong should it be, Hmmm 5000 pound boat going 5 mph into 4000 pounds of water every 15 seconds for hours.
The "Flicka's" have the fuel inlet at the bow and are always getting water in there fuel.
I hope you are plaing on staying coastal.