sailFar.net

Gonna start out with my list of things that need to be addressed before I start my adventure.

List:

Anchor and rode (Manson Supreme)
Stove (propane) Camping stove to start
Water tankage increase 5 5gal flex jugs
Line (various lengths/sizes as utility)
GPS x2 (basic models)
Depth/fish finder
Fishing gear (pole/net/reel/filet knife)
Galley supplies (Pots/pans/pressure cooker/food storage containers)
Battery (have 1 need another)
Solar panel and mounting system
Voltage regulator
Snorkel/dive gear
Cruising guides (Chesapeake/Bahamas)
Dinghy
Self-steering system (vane/sheet to tiller/ etc..)
LED cabin lights (Bebi)
Tools (any must haves?)
Tether/harness system

Would like to have a nice custom bimini and dodger, but budget does mot allow for these luxuries at this time. Gonna go with tarp over boom and bungees at anchor for a poor mans bimini.

Unsure of my power needs? Currently my demand will be from running lights/cabin lights and charging phone. Currently 1 battery on board with no charging capability and I will add 1 more. Anyone have an idea what size solar panel would keep up with my demand? I was thinking around 40-80 watts would do the job.

What spare parts does everyone carry onboard? Such as blocks/line/fastners/etc...

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated

I do not have the expertice to guide you, so I say Good luck with everything. (And I will keep a close I to this tread to learn)...

Quote from: Chattcatdaddy on February 25, 2012, 05:29:33 AM
Gonna start out with my list of things that need to be addressed before I start my adventure.

List:

Solar panel and mounting system

Here's the basic design I am planning.  James has also sent me some ideas for modifying to suit my larger panel.

http://atomvoyages.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=222:the-solar-tracker&catid=91:cys&Itemid=527

Quote

Unsure of my power needs? Currently my demand will be from running lights/cabin lights and charging phone. Currently 1 battery on board with no charging capability and I will add 1 more. Anyone have an idea what size solar panel would keep up with my demand? I was thinking around 40-80 watts would do the job.

If all you need to power is LED cabin lights and your navigation lights, you won't need that much charging.  Let's say 1-2 amps for 8 or so hours....call it 10-12 amp-hr per day.  You get roughly 5 hours of charging from a panel per day, so, a 2 amp panel should be enough....a 35 Watt panel should be more than adequate.

Here's a thought just for pondering.  When designing the electrical system, most people make a list of everything they want to power and usually include losses and stuff like that.  This yields the energy budget (amp-hours per day).  Then they design a storage + charging system to meet that budget.

I took the opposite approach.  I decided first what charging capability I wanted (did not want) and set my budget around that.  That forced me to "fit" my "wants" into a budget I could realistically provide given the charging limitations I was imposing on my boat.

Other extreme?

Spoke to a fellow last year, a power boater who is thinking of making the move to a sailboat, and he was talking about putting multiple 300 Watt panels on his boat so he could operated an industrial deep freeze cooler.  Just wow.   :o

Some answers, based on 2 1/2 years recently of cruising, Chesapeake, Bahamas, Gulf coast

Anchor and rode (Manson Supreme)-

No experience, but carry a second, different style anchor. Occasionally you run into area where one type won't work, but another will- a Danforth would be fine

(edited to add)- I carry 75 feet of G4 chain (plus nylon) on my main anchor, and was very glad of it.


Stove (propane) Camping stove to start----

Walmart sells a single burner Coleman propane stove that works well. We used one on the recent delivery trip. Just store the canisters outside once opened, and don't remove the one in use from the stove and it should be fine- cost $23.00

Water tankage increase 5 5gal flex jugs-

Plus some one gallon jugs stowed here and there. Much easier to use day to day than a five gallon, plus can be used to trim the boat. Be warned that the flex jugs ( I use Coleman's) don't last all that long. easy to hole, but sail repair tape works well as a patch.


Line (various lengths/sizes as utility)-

Yep- I carry a small bag with all sizes and lengths of line.


GPS x2 (basic models)-

Currently using the Garmin 76 Cx. I like it. Didn't bother with the charts sold seperately. I use chart books, etc


Depth/fish finder-

MUCH better deal than a dedicated depth sounder. Shows type of bottom.


Fishing gear (pole/net/reel/filet knife)-

Yep- and a rod holder for trolling. I have three rods aboard- a heavy one, a light action, and a collapsible ultra light. LOTS of fun in the Bahamas, casting to fish you can see swimming around the anchor chain.

Galley supplies (Pots/pans/pressure cooker/food storage containers)-

Pressure cooker for sure- can be a secure pot in rough stuff- lid locks on. Also a teapot for heating water. For food storage- definitely the very best is the Lock and Lock containers-

http://www.locknlockplace.com/index.php/food-containers/plastic-series-airtight.html

Expensive and worth every penny. I store electronics, batteries, food, spices, in them. Completely air tight.


Battery (have 1 need another)- Maybe, maybe not. Had two, dropped back to one.


Solar panel and mounting system-

Yep- used a 32 watt panel mounted on Bimini. Only had to use battery charger 4 times in 2 1/2 years- two
of those on my single hand trip back home- winter low sun angle, bad weather.

Voltage regulator-

Charge controller? Definitely. I used a Morningstar controller. When it conked out , 5 days before warranty did, they shipped me a new one. Good folks.

http://www.solar-electric.com/mochco.html


Snorkel/dive gear-

ABSOLUTELY


Cruising guides (Chesapeake/Bahamas)-

For the Bahamas, the Explorer chart books are THE best.


Dinghy-

One with a small outboard is the best. Lots of dive, anchoring, fishing places are a long row. Not that you can't row, but a small, OB is sure nice- I used a 2.2 HP.


Self-steering system (vane/sheet to tiller/ etc..)-

And a tiller pilot if you can manage it. Sheet to tiller works very well, and once you work things out, easy to use- Good website here-

www.jsward.com/steering/index.shtml

(Edited to fix above link)

LED cabin lights (Bebi)-

Bebi anchor light for sure. Also for cabin lights.. I got all my interior lights from Defender.


Tools (any must haves?)-

Regular mech tools, plus electrical stuff- wire stripper, crimper, etc. Plus heat shrink tubing. extra wire.


Tether/harness system-

For sure. I have a hard point in Tehani's cockpit just outside the companionway. My tether reaches below, and to the mast with out unhooking. For going forward I rig a jack line and clip to that, but usually don't bother inshore (yeah, yeah- but- my life, my rules)

Would like to have a nice custom bimini and dodger, but budget does mot allow for these luxuries at this time. Gonna go with tarp over boom and bungees at anchor for a poor mans bimini.-

For several years, including two trips Tex - Fl and back, I used a bimini with a frame made from EMT tubing- cost about $30 bucks, not counting fittings. Finally rusted, but held up ok for about 3 years. Sailrite sells a CD on sewing a bimini. Try your best to get one- worth as much as the main sail-(seriously) Tarp for an awning is ok for at anchor- cruised several years in the 80s with that setup

Unsure of my power needs? Currently my demand will be from running lights/cabin lights and charging phone. Currently 1 battery on board with no charging capability and I will add 1 more. Anyone have an idea what size solar panel would keep up with my demand? I was thinking around 40-80 watts would do the job.--

See above. You'll also need power for a VHF and depth sounder (fish finder) but you're thinking is good.

What spare parts does everyone carry onboard? Such as blocks/line/fastners/etc...-

I  set up a plastic box- one with dividers inside, with an assortment of screws and machine screws. I settled on three sizes of machine screws- 14-20, 10-32 and 10-24 -carried a tap and die for each. Also  an assortment of various lengths # 6, 8, 10 pan head and flat head screws. All in one box about 6 x 10 or so.

Spare sail  slugs or slides for main, spare jib hanks, extra shackles for anchor (galv) and for rigging (stainless)

Rebuild kits for pumps- galley foot pump, bilge pump

add a decent pair of binoculars.

Also- I use a pump-up sprayer, which lives in the cockpit, for many things- rinsing dishes, showers, etc. Mine came from Duckworks- comes all set up-

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/gear/shower/index.htm

REALLY like mine and use it nearly every day.

Oh- and have fun!!

Quote from: Captain Smollett on February 25, 2012, 09:53:01 AM

Other extreme?

Spoke to a fellow last year, a power boater who is thinking of making the move to a sailboat, and he was talking about putting multiple 300 Watt panels on his boat so he could operated an industrial deep freeze cooler.  Just wow.   :o

I've seen more than one boat out there- with TWO wind generators, and 4 or 5 solar panels PLUS a generator. Makes me just shake my head in wonder.

If you haven't come across this pdf then give it a scan.

I didn't look around to check if this is covered anywhere else (I'm sure it is) but some things bear repeating:
http://sfbaysss.org/tipsbook/

Quote from: jpfx on February 25, 2012, 11:32:17 AM

If you haven't come across this pdf then give it a scan.

I didn't look around to check if this is covered anywhere else (I'm sure it is) but some things bear repeating:
http://sfbaysss.org/tipsbook/

Wow, what a great resource!  Grog for posting that.

In my first quick scanning read, here's my favorite part so far, founded tucked away in the chapter on electrical systems:

Quote

So the singlehander faces two options: first is to
attend university for four years to receive a
degree in electronics engineering; second is to
drastically reduce the amount of electronics on
board. I prefer the second option.

I AM A SAIL BOAT. I NEED ONLY WIND
TO MOVE MY MASTER SAFELY AND
COMFORTABLY TO ANY PORT IN THE
WORLD.

This should be engraved on a bronze plaque and
mounted inside every singlehanders boat.

IMO a Dodger well worth some effort.

For a poor mans Dodger (a Sprayhood over here!) instead of using s/s ($$$  :() use Aluminium as cheaper and easy to bend by self  - or even plastic tube!......won't be as strong as s/s of course but will still be as rigid when deployed (and it doesn't have to be capable of folding down) - won't be able to sit on top of the Dodger frame, but the easy answer to that is - don't sit on top of the Dodger frame!

Sewing will still be a PITA  ;D......................but if you sacrifice some beauty for functionality (and use a bit of cunning - and a Hammer! - to knock in pop studs) then perfectly doable .....you can upgrade to a s/s frame later. or not. Same for parts of the Dodger itself that may not have turned out as hoped - especially if you luck onto someone with a sewing machine  :).

Have Fun  :)

Quote from: jpfx on February 25, 2012, 11:32:17 AM
If you haven't come across this pdf then give it a scan.

I didn't look around to check if this is covered anywhere else (I'm sure it is) but some things bear repeating:
http://sfbaysss.org/tipsbook/

Strangely enough it seems I have already downloaded the pdf and completely forgot about it until my pc reminded I already have a file with the same title. ???

Getting some really great advice and cant thank everyone enough.  I am busy making notes and trying to get ready to place some orders here in the next week.

Quote from: David_Old_Jersey on February 25, 2012, 01:28:09 PM
IMO a Dodger well worth some effort.

A dodger would be wonderful. Might have to give the poor mans dodger a good long look. A nice dodger will be my first big project when the time/money is right.

Quote from: CharlieJ on February 25, 2012, 09:57:09 AM

http://www.locknlockplace.com/index.php/food-containers/plastic-series-airtight.html

Expensive and worth every penny. I store electronics, batteries, food, spices, in them. Completely air tight.

Charge controller? Definitely. I used a Morningstar controller. When it conked out , 5 days before warranty did, they shipped me a new one. Good folks.

http://www.solar-electric.com/mochco.html

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/gear/shower/index.htm

Thanks for the advice and links. Solar panel prices are not as high as I imagined. Guess prices have gone down over the past few years.

I really like those containers and the price is not all that bad considering they have locking lids. Problem is trying to figure how many I will need and what sizes to order. Can always supplement with some from Wallyworld if needed.

Also if anyone is interested Wallyworld has 3/8 100ft braided line for $5. I snatched a couple never know where I could use it.

Quote from: Chattcatdaddy on February 25, 2012, 05:29:33 AM

What spare parts does everyone carry onboard? Such as blocks/line/fastners/etc...

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated

Spares - Anything consumable / within my (limited!) skillset for the engine. I also have a box of screws / nuts and bolts / washers etc plus various bits & bobs collected over the years that may be useful for fixing stuff (or cobbling up a temporary fix) - but in practice probably most won't ever be used.

Tools - mainly the basic stuff (Screwdrivers / pliers etc - plus a socket set) but including any special tools for items onboard (my engine has a couple). Am presently finishing off the refurb / refit so the boat is fairly well loaded with tools - certainly far more than will be kept onboard, what I found surprising was when I set up a day to day toolbox that the tools collected in it (as I used them) were fairly limited - except for specific jobs (hopefuly most of these can be dispensed with)......might want to do the same and see what you actually use, in addition to those that would be nice to have onboard "just in case".

Quote from: David_Old_Jersey on February 26, 2012, 06:06:42 AM

Spares - Anything consumable / within my (limited!) skillset for the engine. I also have a box of screws / nuts and bolts / washers etc plus various bits & bobs collected over the years that may be useful for fixing stuff (or cobbling up a temporary fix) -

At the risk of being seen as ALWAYS counter-pointing, I did want to mention one caution.

It's VERY easy to accumulate too much "junk" on the boat, especially in the form of "I might need this some day."   I'm trying to do better with this.  I'm thinking in particular of the box of screws/washers/nuts I have that does not have any two of the same thing it and I don't know what half of them are material-wise.

Quote

but in practice probably most won't ever be used.

This part needs to be repeated to oneself very often.  True, it's better (to a point) to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it, but with some careful thought, "need" can be contained to a rather small set of spares.

Having a KISS boat in the first place helps, too.  Removing things that spares are needed for and you remove the need for spares!  Cool!

That's another reason the "need 45 feet" crowd has gained traction.  Showers, chartplotters, refrigerators, engines, get-sets, wind generators etc all need "time" to maintain but also "stuff" to maintain.  Since it can break any time, and we tend to operate in a state of fear of having some perceived "need" break unexpectedly, we have to be able to repair on a moment's notice.

Hence...two tons of "spares" and the requisite space to store it all.

This is another area where I'm trying to take a backward approach...like the electrical system.  Instead of thinking about what I "need" to carry...I'm defining a space to put it in.  That's the designated "spares" locker, and it must all fit in there.  Period. 

Do I REALLY need to carry x, y and z, or what can wait until I get into port?  Is that for a 'critical system' that the boat must have to operate safely?  I think it was Lin and Larry that advocated the notion of putting off non-critical repairs until they were 'convenient' to do...not to think the everything on the boat had to be "100% system ready" at all times.

I'm taking a hard look at engine spares in this latter category and thinking once again about the concept of pretending my boat is engineless.  I remove a whole bunch of spares and do-dads and tools if I adopt the mindset that "well, if the engine dies, I'll fix it when I get there" rather than trying to have a full-on mechanics shop on board with me.

Truthfully, if I'm motoring and not sailing anyway, I'm most likely near enough to repair facilities and stores to get what I need.

Also, think of all the money tied up in "spares," all that stuff that will likely never get used.  My approach requires the discipline of having a "kitty" for urgent repair parts to be purchased that is never touched....

I'm not talking about a "nothing" approach...just, well, minimalist.  What do I think I will REALLY need?

Engine:  Spark plugs, spare fuel line fittings (those little snap on things tend to wear out a lot in my experience), spare fuel line pump, spare sheer pins, maybe a water impeller and that's about it.

Accommodations: Rebuild kit for the head, bilge pump and waste pump and I cannot think of anything else right off.

The Rig and Ground Tackle will comprise the bulk of my spares I think:  I have two sizes of turnbuckle in the rig, some rigging wire and spare sta-locks, a small set of shackles and similar hardware.

Like Charlie, I like the small set of fasteners approach vice "one of every conceived size, shape and design."  Some wood for emergency repair of a hatch of portlight would add to peace of mind.

There's probably some other stuff, too, but that's the bulk of it.

Compared to the stuff I recently off-loaded from the boat, that's a VERY spartan list.  I threw away probably close to 200 lbs of junk, and I was amazed at how much of my available space that junk was consuming.  99% of it I had not touched since purchasing the boat five years ago.

I like the idea of the "I am using it" toolbox being developed/maintained. I also recall reading an article - it may have been by the Pardey's - in which such a proposal resulted in the sudden use of a whole range of tools that had been gathering dust for a while. As a former backpacker, I am big on the idea of bringing along things that can have multiple uses, but wary of things that purport to do everything, but in the end do nothing very well.
Spares, tools, questions etc. prompts me to ponder whether or not I really need something. Is the system really critical to operation or is it just "nice to have"? A coffeemaker is not a critical system, so long as I have SOME method of making coffee. Steering is critical. So is some method of propulsion... and on and on. Size/weight of "spares" makes a difference too. I can more easily carry 2 extra washers than I can 2 extra anchors.

Here's much great info! A question: How long can I "store" water in the boat? Is there any "risk" of "old water" if keept dark and a bit cold???

With a few drops of Clorox in the tank, I've kept drinkable water for over 6 months. Any longer than that, I prefer to empty the tank, shock it with a heavy dose of Clorox, pump it dry, flush it and start over. Of course it's pretty warm down here most of the time.

One thing I forgot in my earlier post,

I ALWAYS have a quantity of underwater epoxy aboard. What I have is known as "Black and Yellow" and gets mixed with wet hands.

When we slammed bottom in a squall and cracked the hull, I dove under and almost stopped the leak with a handful of it. Kept it under control til we could haul.

I don't keep many spares on the boat, but I do have an extra fuel filter on board.  Even though it's a sailboat I do motor in and out of the ICW.  A motor quitting while your trying to enter the channel the night can offer quite a bit of excitement - trust me  ::)

Greg

Quote from: tomwatt on February 26, 2012, 11:58:53 AM
I like the idea of the "I am using it" toolbox being developed/maintained. I also recall reading an article - it may have been by the Pardey's - in which such a proposal resulted in the sudden use of a whole range of tools that had been gathering dust for a while.

I would like to say that my "I am using it" toolbox was the result of lots of thinking, but really only came about because I got peed off with never being able to find things!

Still, have lots of refining down on the tools front (am intending a day to day toolbox, Engine work, Socket set, Electrical box and rarely used but damned useful!)  - but my transition to living aboard (end of March?) will involve keeping access to a workshop / store (aka a garage, sans car!), so I don't have to make any hard decisions initially and can revise my onboard toolbox(s) as I go along.

And on the keeping stuff "just in case"? Lol! I understand that only too well! (you should see the garage), I am a magpie, but can also be ruthless on de-cluttering.....we'l see how that works out.

Quote from: David_Old_Jersey on February 27, 2012, 05:05:32 AM
And on the keeping stuff "just in case"? Lol! I understand that only too well! (you should see the garage), I am a magpie, but can also be ruthless on de-cluttering.....we'l see how that works out.

Magpie. Sounds like a good name for a cruising boat!
;D

I have been preparing to place an order from Defender and they may make me customer of the month. ;D

Here is the order cart so far:

Manson Supreme 25 lbs
G4 HT chain 3/8" 40ft
Braided Line 5/8" 150ft (would 1/2" be suffice?)
Shackles
Locking wire (cotter pins better?)
Harness/Tether
Padeyes x5 folding (jackline set-up)
Nylon webbing 1" approx 40ft
Sailpatch/tape/thread

Comes to around $1100 w/shipping

Order to placed in the next 7-10 days

The padeyes seemed a little pricey at $28 a piece. Any other alternatives?

Quote from: Chattcatdaddy on February 27, 2012, 12:27:53 PM

I have been preparing to place an order from Defender and they may make me customer of the month. ;D

Fun Times!

Quote

Here is the order cart so far:

...

G4 HT chain 3/8" 40ft
Braided Line 5/8" 150ft (would 1/2 be suffice?)

...

Locking wire (cotter pins better?)

...

Padeyes x5 folding (jackline set-up)

...

The padeyes seemed a little pricey at $28 a piece. Any other alternatives?

Questions/Comments:

Do you really need 3/9" G4 chain?  I'm only using 5/16" G4 on the A-30 and she's almost twice the weight on an Ariel.

5/8" vs 1/2" for the line is to a degree personal preference.  Some will say that going too large will decrease your "stretch damping" effect that the nylon gives you, but then you lower breaking strength, too.  I've got 5/8" on the primary (35 lb Manson) but 1/2" on the secondary (33 lb claw).

By "Locking Wire," do you me for the shackles in the ground tackle?  If so, I personally would stay away from cotter pins.  I use nylon zip ties to secure my shackle pins.

In fact, I've even used those little mild-steel but coated twist ties that come on stuff like a loaf of bread or holding a wire in a bundle.  These are cheap (free) and since they get inspected often, no biggie.  I had several sets stay submerged for 18 months in brackish water and were still intact.  I threw them away at that time.

For that matter, I've even used ordinary fiber string or twine, though not recommended.  In this case, I 'backed it up' with several wraps of duct tape.

I've come to conclusion to generally avoid folding padeyes...I think it was Dan/AdrifAtSea that convinced me a while back they have some big downsides.

Good luck feeding your hole in the water!  ;)

Capt Smollet

Do you thank 1/4" chain would be suffecient? Just trying to err on the side of caution.

Deleted the wire order, now that I know its not necassary. Zip ties it will be.

Whats the issues with folding padeyes? I was trying to avoid as many things as possible from sticking out of the deck.

Updated my order:

G4 5/16" 40ft
Braided line 1/2" 150ft
Deleted padeyes
Deleted webbing
Deleted locking wire
Added Jackline premade system (easy to add/remove as needed)

Saved about $150 (glad I didn`t place the order ;D)

Still might add padeye for harness attach while in cockpit.

Just Googled up a Pearson Ariel - my eyes not quite good enough for your Avatar!.....and first hit was of your boat on Facebook!

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.207534552627563.44316.190796814301337&type=3#!/media/set/?set=a.207534552627563.44316.190796814301337&type=3 (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.207534552627563.44316.190796814301337&type=3#!/media/set/?set=a.207534552627563.44316.190796814301337&type=3)

Very pretty  :)

Not sure where / how you are intending to rig up your jacklines (Deck or Coachroof?) - but if on the deck, could use the cleats instead of padeyes (and anything folding is usually weaker than solid - and IMO more likely to corrode), downside is need a few more feet of jackline - upside is that the cleats will (hopefully!) be stronger and are already onboard! in the cockpit I would use a simple U bolt (a decent size, through bolted somewhere solid - and out of knee reach / range!.....just under the hatch would be ideal as allows clipping on when still down below).

Given that folks seem split on whether to go forward on the uphill or downhill side - if money an issue, put a jackline one side only - and do both, as needed  :P

Still undecided on the jackline system. I would ideally a coachroof sytem with lines on either side. Although a deck system would be an simple install and cost less with existing cleats. Either way it will get a lot of use seeing that my headsails are hank-on.

I think i will start off with a deckstyle and change if I do not feel comfortable with that set-up.

Quote from: Chattcatdaddy on February 27, 2012, 01:16:16 PM

Capt Smollet

Do you thank 1/4" chain would be suffecient? Just trying to err on the side of caution.

I don't know.  I went upsize on everything in the ground tackle "system" so I guess that means I read that 1/4" G4 was "recommended" for an Alberg 30.  Best bet would be for the Ariel guys to chime in on that, but if weight and/or cost is an issue, 1/4" may suffice.

Quote

Whats the issues with folding padeyes? I was trying to avoid as many things as possible from sticking out of the deck.

David mentioned a biggie with the loss of strength for a given size.  Another issue is the increased 'hassle' in using them.

That said, I did purchase folding padeyes to lash the dinghy down.  I figured I could accept the strength trade as while I don't want to lose my dink, it's also not a "life" so I view it differently.

Finally, I use deck rigged jacklines tied to cleats, but I do have a big, mondo heavy duty, non-folding padeye in the cockpit for use while in the cockpit.  It allows just getting into the cabin while staying clipped in and we can thus clip in while inside the companionway.

This turned out to be a big psychological plus for my wife (and me, too), as we could implement an SOP with the children that they clip in BEFORE leaving the cabin.  This gives that little edge in the "peace of mind" department, and every little bit helps when venturing "outside" ... especially with little ones.

I mounted it on the aft vertical surface of the bridge deck with a rather large backing plate.  I put one on each boat in the same place, actually, since fortunately both boats have proper bridge decks.

Another mod I've made (but yet to use for jacklines specifically) is I went up in size on the foredeck cleats, and changed style.

The boat originally had 10" "yacht" cleats, the ordinary aluminum kind that have a kind of thick-ish base.

(http://www.defender.com/images/612954.jpg)


  I changed to 12" Stainless Steel Herreschoff's, and MAN what a difference these make.


(http://www.defender.com/images/000409.jpg)

What I mean is that even with 10" regular cleats, I quickly ran out of "cleat;"  they filled up.  You really want to rig your jacklines BEFORE getting underway rather than trying to do it 'at sea.'  This means a rather large piece of (line in my case, though webbing is on the list to buy) material on the cleat, then dockline(s).  Underway, you might want to secure a line to the cleat for various purposes...a halyard while you hand a sail, for example, or maybe even the rode to a sea anchor/bridle set-up...and those would be large diameter, too.

So, the usual horn cleats were, in my opinion very inadequate.  Hard to tell even from that pictures, but notice how much more line the Herreschoff's can take.

Food for thought, as they say..,.if you do decide to go the "use the cleats that are already there" (a sentiment with which I agree, btw, why add additional hardware to the boat..more points of failure and leaks, etc), make sure they are up to the task, which may mean "room to grow."

I hope that makes sense how I explained it. 

I use 1/4 G4 on Tehani- figure 7500 pounds loaded.

Used 5/16 G4 on my 35 foot trimaran. Not a really heavy boat, but much windage at anchor

Used 5/8 nylon on the tri, 1/2 on Tehani. And on Neccessity ;)

I'm in total agreement with Smollet on the cleats.. Most boats come from the factory with woefully inadequate sizes. If you can't get at least three of your normal lines on a bow cleat, it's too small. And the Herreshof style is all I use.

This is Necessity's bow- those are 10 inch cleats on a 21 foot boat

OK I have now switched the order.

Chain 1/4" 50ft
Line 1/2" 150ft
Price difference saved me a little so I added some Hereshoff style 10" cleats.

Whats everyones thoughts on braided vs. twisted line?

Twisted is easier to splice and braided is stronger. At least thats how I come to understand the differences.

I've always used 3 strand. I understand about braid being stronger, but 3 strand is plenty, and easier to splice. Braid is very difficult or impossible to splice once it get old- 3 strand can be spliced forever.

I use a back splice on the chain/ nylon connection too- not a shackle.

I highly recommend quality 3-strand nylon for anchor rodes.  Beware some cheap 3-strand nylons, though.  "Commercial" grade nylon sold at Hamilton Marine seems a good compromise between quality and price, even though I spring for New England Ropes 3-strand nylon myself which is very nicely laid.  Double braid lines may be stronger, but don't have as much resistance to chafe, nor do they stretch as much to absorb shock.  Both are desirable for an anchor rode, dock lines, and snubbers.  If you have difficulty fitting as much rode as you like in your bow and have the extra $, single braid nylon ropes designed for anchoring are good options because they stow more compactly, e.g. Yale Brait and many others.

I also agree that a tight backsplice over the last link in the chain or a shackle is an excellent way to join your chain to rope rode and Brion Toss' preferred method (search spartalk if you want more such info.)  I splice to a shackle instead of the chain directly because it alllows me to have a very short chain lead on my anchor for most anchoring conditions, and add lengths of chain when I feel conditions warrant.  Of course, any anchor shackle should be moused with wire.

Things are moving along nicely and I`m a $1000 poorer courtsey of Defender. The money sure goes fast.

My order:
Tether sytems (harness etc..)
Hereshoff cleats 10"
Anchor systems: Manson Supreme, chin, line
Sail repair tape

Ordered $100 worth of containers.

Also orders for Explorer charts for Bahamas, Gunkholing guide to Chesapeake Bay, and This Old Boat. ($225)

Still need:
Solar Panel ~40w and charge controller
Battery
Dinghy..still undecided on what type
Pressure cooker
Foul weather gear(coastal)
GPS

If i can get out of this fitting for around $2000-2500 total I will be happy. $1325 so far and still without a dink. Either way I`m excited about the future.

Any suggestions on some bargain foul weather gear?

QuoteAny suggestions on some bargain foul weather gear?

See this thread: http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f2/new-foul-weather-set-85-great-76236.html

I have no personal experience with this set, but the comments are good.

Thanks Jeremy

Exactly what I was looking to buy and $85!

Have a grog!

Direct link for anyone else interested.
http://www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys/Nautical-Foul-Weather-Set/6358934/product.html?AID=10668447&PID=5509592&SID=skim21873X801234X98723ebbf07cad67005ae9fbc993e917 (http://www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys/Nautical-Foul-Weather-Set/6358934/product.html?AID=10668447&PID=5509592&SID=skim21873X801234X98723ebbf07cad67005ae9fbc993e917)

Also ordered US/Bahama/quaratine flag.

Quote from: Chattcatdaddy on March 08, 2012, 11:59:38 AM
Thanks Jeremy

Exactly what I was looking to buy and $85!

Have a grog!

Direct link for anyone else interested.
http://www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys/Nautical-Foul-Weather-Set/6358934/product.html?AID=10668447&PID=5509592&SID=skim21873X801234X98723ebbf07cad67005ae9fbc993e917 (http://www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys/Nautical-Foul-Weather-Set/6358934/product.html?AID=10668447&PID=5509592&SID=skim21873X801234X98723ebbf07cad67005ae9fbc993e917)

Also ordered US/Bahama/quaratine flag.

That's an amazing price--roughly the same as my Grundens jacket alone.

Still, I'll stick with the Grundens, even though I have to wear polypro under it, even in summer.

--Joe

Well i tried out my propane camp stove tonight and its not going to work. Well it worked, but its got a small base and is unsteady not to mention that the watchamacallit  that the pots/pans sit on comes off easliy while cooking. So now this is going to be a back up unit. I seen another unit while shopping around with a much larger footprint/base. I will give it a good inspection and see if it will work.

Live and learn.

If this is the only thing I buy that doesn`t work out I will be a happy sailor. Since I was planning on a bck up unit anyway its not a real big issue.

Side note: The burner sucks but the tacos were delicious! ;D

Defender order arrived today! ;D

Manson Supreme is a big hunk of steel! Im glad that I do not have a larger boat and have to lift anything heavier than that baby up with a long length of chain.

10" hereshoff style cleats sure are pretty.

This is a fun thread to follow, Keith. I'm getting anxious just reading and imagining the excitment of slipping the dock lines.  Sorry to hear about the short comings of your camp stove.  It sure would be nice to get back all the money spent on 'less than ideal' purchases...  Cap'n K had a thread about a particular camp stove that may be an option for you.  If you haven't read the thread already it is searchable (sorry for not having the link here). 

You are doing a heck of a job outfitting Seahorse frugally.  If you can finish her for another $1,200 you are in an elite group.  I thought I was doing an exceptional job of hunting for deals and waiting for sales, but you sure could show me a thing or two! ;D

Thanks Tony

It is an exciting time for sure. I really cant take credit for all the deals as others have lead me to the great deals. Esp the $85 foul weather gear! Rest has come from Defender as they seem to have the best prices around. Still got a lot of stuff to purchase including solar panel/charge controller, dinghy (leaning toward inflat kayak as dual purpose to start), GPS, and parts to start experimenting with sheet-to-tiller steering.

Sheet to tiller system will determine if I will attempt THE SCOOT after a cruise down the Chesapeake. Chesapeake will be the testing ground/shake down trip.

Explorer charts arrived yesterday and I am having a great time just browsing thru all the cool places I want to sail. Didn`t realiise they would be as big as they are which is good. I got all 3 covering the entire Bahamas and Turks&Caicos... $150 well spent. Also got the large scale chart of Bimini that comes when ordering 3 or more chartbooks. Having a little trouble with the scale of the charts as I keep looking at them thinking that one anchorage looks to be real far away from the next when in reality its only a few miles. ???

Solar panel 40w and charge controller ordered along with the pump shower/sprayer thingy from duckworks. Going to pick up GPS units in the next week or so. Gonna go ahead and order a portabote 8` model as they are having a spring sale(selling car for portabote funds).

Hopefully be with Seahorse in the next week or two. Marina is slow on launching boats and Seahorse is behind all the other boats in the yard.

Porta-bote 8ft ordered for $1450. I think its my best choice for an Ariel with capability to store below during passages. Not a big fan of inflatables and a hard dinghy unless nesting is a issue for passages. Either way one type or another is a compromise in some ways.

Porta-bote arrives tomorrow the 18th. I will be departing this coming sunday for MD for a monday boat launch. Then its get the boat in some sort of order and some shake down sails. After that its time to start a sail down the Chesapeake Bay. Plan is to hopefully be at the mouth of the Chesapeake around the first week of May give or take a few days or weeks. ;D

Will update with a new trip thread once I actually get started.

I will be interested in your review of the porta boat.  Most folks seem to love or hate them... very few in between.  Will also like to see it stowed aboard SeaHorse.

Well one thing about portabote...its heavy. Listed as weighing around 60 lbs without seat...well it sure seems to be heavier to me. Could really be a challenge to get this thing out the water for a passage. I figure I will be towing it a great deal of the time so therfore weight will not be much of an issue.

"Will update with a new trip thread once I actually get started"
looking forward to it!

Did you end up getting another primary stove ?
I have seen a few portable stoves by Coleman that run on pressurized petrol I have often wondered if they would be any good ... I figure you would be carrying some petrol for the OB so it would cut down on one type of fuel carried and is not stored pressurized like propane .

Made it to the boat in Chester, MD. Very busy unpacking and sorting thru all my supplies and trying to create some sense of order. Still alot to do, hopefully out for a test sail by the weekend or sooner.

Just for fun mother nature decided to drop the temp to 41F overnight and breezy as well. Temp in 60`s today and the wind has eased with occassional gust.

So many things to do I get sidetracked easily...must focus

Question: How to raise deck to the height of tow rail to mount anchor roller?

Looking for the simplest solution. No experience laying up fiberglass, but I`m heck with 3m 4200/5200.

Maybe an inch thick hardwood mounted to the deck as a base? Would not have that fine fit and finished look but would it be suitable reasonable solution?

I used a 1 inch thick piece of Mahogany, with another doubled on top. Those pics aren't on this computer, but later this evening I'll put up a pic of the bow, with the anchor platform and roller

here's a couple of pics

From the side and aft

and two more-straight down on it, and from the front

Thats some nice work. Well beyond my skill set.

I`m hovering between using some high density filler such as West System 404? by building a dam and filling the area for the base. Doesn`t sound too hard, but I can visualize a huge mess if it went wrong.

I have been getting advice over on another forum about using polethylene cutting boards. Isn`t starboard polyethylene?

Really can't answer on the Starboard- never used it.

I had  to cut the deck edge, move the pulpit aft a good bit and move the chocks aft in that set up, but it's worked quite well

Basically it's a chunk of mahogany caulked and bolted to the deck, with the anchor roller platform bolted atop that. Not really a major job, if you take your time.

mate dont use the polywhosawhatsit cutting board stuff it yellows from UV and looks terrible

I used Starboard for a spacer on a motormount application, you could probably do the same under the roller, assuming it was trimmed to the outline of the roller.

I agree that Starboard would probably not weather well, so making something like what Charlie did wouldn't be advised.

The stuff does not glue well so lamination would have to be done mechanically to get adequate height.

Here is what I think I`m gonna end up trying:

Marine ply 1/2 2 pieces stacked and epoxied to the correct height and shaped to make as clean of a look as Im capable.. Then cover with fiberglass and paint white. doesn`t sound all that hard to do even though ive never done it.

Any recommendations on what type of fiberglass/resin combo would do the trick?

I`m also got a week or 2 to get this done. Mainsail is at the sail loft getting reefs added and will not be back until sometime next week. Reef points x2 for $300 didnt seem to bad and was by far the lowest quote by a hun. North sails is doing the work.

Also pickded up some pulleys, snap hooks, etc for a try at sheet to tiller set-up.

Hope to be cruising in two weeks.

Sounds reasonable.

10 oz Cloth, and epoxy resin. Any of the majors are fine- RAKA, MAS, Sys 3 are all 2-1 mixes. WEST is a 5-1 mix and quite expensive, though readily available (West Marine has it)

Personally, I use a 2-1 from B and B  Yacht Designs.

And I'd bolt it to the deck. Look at the pics I posted and you can see the bolts. BIG backing plates under deck. Good bit of load on the anchor platform.

Most definitely bolted to the deck with some nice sized washers and of course backing plate of most likely the same 1/2 ply.

nice to see! The "funny" part is... I've done the exact same thing, ( teak instead of mahogny) under my anchor roller ;D