Anyone have sailing experience with small (20 - 26 ft) twin keelers? I am aware of some of the theoretical performance considerations, just curious about real world sailing capabilities. Thanks.
I've never sailed one but a regular contributer to 'small craft advisor', Philip Teece built his Caprice class 18fter 40+ yrs ago and has sailed her all over the NW coast below and behind Vancouver Island.Another fellow ,Shane Acton, sailed his Caprice 'shrimpy' around the world.Both have written books.There is a full article in SCA about twin keel designs.Contact Josh by e-mail if you want to purchase that old issue.Great read if you are thinking twin keel.Bottom line..they DO sail very well if done correctly.
Might want to ask Cgoinggal about it... she has a Nomad, which I believe is a twin-keeler.
My little boat is a Crealock designed Clipper Marine 23 twin keel. Has a capsize ratio just a hair over 2 at 2.02. Sailing wise, its a great light air boat, and with a competent sailor (not me) I believe it'd be very comparable to a Catalina 22. Not one I'd want to take off shore, but I've been in some nasty stuff on the lake and its gotten me home. It has NACA foil design for the keels. FWIW.
If you want to see a very small twin keel... 'voyager 14ft'... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/voyager14/ ..neat little English cabin boat. Actually looks nice too. Posted a pic in gallery (left the y out of voyager..can't seem to get in to fix it...I love computers...I love computers..I lo.....)
Hello,
Two cents about my Westerly Nomad (which is the only bilge keel boat I have ever sailed so my knowlege about bilge keel boats in general is very limited and I would like to have you know up front I would be talking from my bum about other bilge keel vessles):
With modifications she comes in around 24 feet overall but from the factory came in at 22 feet. She is huge for her size down below making her a comfortable fulltime liveaboard in my opinion. After our marriage next month, Andunge will be my husband and mine's fulltime residence and neither of us has qualms about this (though we are both staunch minamalists) and she was my fulltime home while crusing her for over a year in Mexico.
As for sailing her: She is very stiff-which I love being she has minimal freeboard and while I like to be close to the water I don't feel like it needs to join me onboard. I have had her in conditions ranging from no wind and drifting to being in over 60 knots of wind and large seas (20-25 feet) for days with everything in between. She has preformed safely, comfortably, and speedily when called upon to do so and the conditions were optimal. When hove-to she tracked beautifully and the helm was left unattended for over 3 days. She has never taken water on deck from any angle including during the 60k Northerly even after I was asked to remove myself from the safety of her keep by the Mexican Navy. I am interested in turning her into a cutter and putting a bowsprit on her to move the forstay forward and then moving the baby stay forward as well. The standing rigging is being replaced with spectra and the workhorse sails will be replaced with new soft-hank on forsails and a battonless 3 reef loose footed main all in a heavier fabric. I have had trouble balancing her helm properly but am convinced that this was my poor tuning jobs and worn sails and not the boat that caused this as she was balanced with almost zero weather helm with her last owner (which is what he preferred). The one real drawback to her has been that I feel like I am almost stopped when beating into a sea. But, I don't take this to heart as being her problem as a result of her keels but rather she is simply a small boat and to beat into wind and waves is a lot to expect and get performance. So, I just don't do it unless I have to as it is slow going. I have read the mathematical statistics that are supposed to support what a good sailing/performance boat is and I think the one number people keep throwing at me is her capsize ratio or some such which is supposidly higher than preferred. I don't know about that. I have taken her through two hurricanes and the northerly and though she suffered several knockdowns, one of which was pretty hard, she never, ever felt like she was going to roll. And, frankly, if she did I am convinced that so long as the hatches were seccured she would just keep rolling all the way around as she is a bit of a hamster wheel. In the knockdowns I just put my weight to the high side of the cabin if need be and she comes up and rights herself properly (I say this having had to practice this maneuver on several occasions and it is not nearly as dramatic as it sounds). I suppose it is possible if I stayed on the low side and was in even meaner breaking seas she could go-round but I believe she can take it so long as I can. In these same conditions I believe all sailboats would be having a hard time so I can't figure out what all the fuss is about except that a larger boat in a roll would be terrifying. Somehow in Andunge it doesn't seem like it would be that bad. The main sorce of terror on Andunge in a roll as it is on all boats is her mast if it wanted to punch a hole in the side of the boat but small boats have small masts and I can't imagine it doing anything catistrophic in terms of damage. If it did come down it would be easier to jury rig something to get back to civilisation and I think that with all of her watertight compartments that she could nearly break into pieces and still parts of her will be afloat. I have sailed in larger boats, full-keeled, in similar conditions and they were heeled over farther than Andunge, took a lot of water on deck from breaking waves, and the degree motion seemed a lot more uncomfortable. If they have a faileure from the mast coming down, to a roll, to a hole, it seems a lot more deadly to me as it would be much harder to deal with on that scale. And big masts are scary if they come down. I don't know what to tell you except I personally don't care what the numbers say. Andunge is the safest, most comfortable boat I have ever sailed on. She is not the fastest but she is the smallest I have distance experience on and as such I expect a realistic hull speed for her size and design and I am not dissapointed. The freedom of choices in where I can take her is astounding as well and I never want to sail on a deep draft, single keel boat again. Because of her keels I can locate a trailer for her nearly anywhere in the world if needbe and haul her, and the anchorages she can fit into is the icing on the cake, especially since she can dry out on the bottom. She is incredible stable and easy to sail. I can't imagine a better boat for our needs but everyone is different.
;)
Geesh, just hit the publish button and saw what I typed. Yak-Yak-Yak and on and on. Sorry-I just like Andunge.
:D
Absolutely no need to appologize for loving your boat. I enjoyed the read very much, so I don't think it was at all "yak-yak-yak."
Always happy to learn things about boats I'm not familiar with.
I saw a Westerly 22 in Florida 2 yrs ago...that is a HUGE 22. Post a few pics please..in and out if you can. good post ;)
LOL :) I think we are all like that about our boats. :D
Tell us how you really feel about your boat... ;) I thought what you wrote was pretty well written, and a lot of it applies to many other small boats...
Quote from: cgoinggal on October 10, 2007, 05:37:22 PM
;)
Geesh, just hit the publish button and saw what I typed. Yak-Yak-Yak and on and on. Sorry-I just like Andunge.
Thank you all for your replies, especially cgoinggal. I am keenly interested in some of the smaller, older British twin keelers and hope to be owned by one at some point in the future. Thanks again everyone.
One of our new friends heading south is aboard a westerly (26' i think). The boat, 'Nazdavi' is one of the saltiest small cruising boats I have seen. It has a great tabernackle that looks like it would make dropping the mast a piece of cake. He had also rigged rat lines to the shrouds and had a home made wind generator.
He said that the twin keels opened up lots of anchorages to him, and his draft was something like 28". Lots to be said for 'thinking differently. ;D
cgoinggal-
Did you say you are to replace all standing rigging with Spectra? Why? Lines are far more prone to chafe than ss wire.
I would be interested to know what thoughts made you take this decision. I would not do that myself, that's why it's interesting to hear your reasoning...
fair winds
M
I'd have to agree with MaxiSwede. Going with all spectra rigging sounds like a bad move. Spectra lines are far less chafe resistant and most spectra-based lines suffer from creep—which means you would have to re-tension the rig occasionally. Also, Spectra is affected by UV, while Stainless Steel is not.
Also, I would like to point out that a small bit of weather helm is generally a good thing. That generally means that the boat will round up, head-to-wind, in the case that the tiller is let go. This can be important if you've fall overboard when singlehanding... especially if you're tethered to the boat. If you leave a trip line for the self-steering, you can trigger it and then easily climb back aboard. If the boat has no weather helm, or worse yet lee helm, then the boat may either not change course or run off. In either case it would be far more difficult to climb back aboard.
Funny thing about the spectra coming into play on Andunge...
Ever since I started sailing on my own boats I have really hated wire rope. I hate the toggles, turn buckles, pins, rings, tape, tensioning, the look, the snags, and all the failure points. I hate the prospect of the rig coming down and having to deal with all that stuff. I hate having to hire a pro-rigger to use his superdooper spinny thing to make the swages properly stong. I hate the fact that if you kink it it is worthless. I hate having to stow an entire extra rig to use in the event I need it. Even on a boat with a small rig that is a lot of extra poop (wire rope, turnbuckles etc.). I hate having to carry a swage kit, tools, and wire cutter to handle an emergency. I would like to be able to bring Andunge's mast down and raise it with minimal fuss, not so with all the wire rope.
Enter spectra...
I got to know a guy while cruising in Mexico who captains a 120 foot fishing boat up in the Bearing Sea for a few months a year (which he has been doing for over 25 years) and the rest of the time he sails with his family on a variety of boats he has stashed throughout the world; one of which is in the Sea of Cortez. I got to know he and his family a bit and he started talking about doing rig's in Spectra. It seems that on his fishing boat all of the cable has been replaced with spectra (for the nets, etc.) and that it has worked out beautifully. As a result, this gent and one other guy decided to put together a rigging business using the newest (as far as the general public knows) generation of spectra which was designed for military applications and is just now becoming available to joe public. The guy I am working with deals with a company that only sells to Him and to the Military as far as he knows. (I don't know all the details, only that this guy is standup and God fearing and he has a wonderful family and tons of experience so I take him at his word). His partener and he have come up with a line of custom cast deadeyes, thimbals, etc. to work with this line of spectra to do custom rigs. I have seen the documentation from the spectra company about this spectra's capabilities and it is not the spectra of days gone by. It is almost as abrasion resistant as the wire rope, and it's also much more UV resistant than prior generations and it has next to zero streatch. Basically, all the problems of old generation spectra have been addressed and the tinsel strength is almost 4 times greater than the same size wire rope. They guarentee it under load, in a marine environment for 10 years. I would not even use my wire rope that long.
So, I said, great. Lets do it. I want a whole new set of cruising sails for Andunge and am considering changing her to a cutter. Reguardless, the rig will go something like this. Top of mast: spectra line spliced around thimball at pricise angles that do not deminish the lines strength. Bottom of rig: spectra line spliced at the tip to seal it going to a specifically angled dead eye designed to go on Andunge's existing deck hardware and then lashed. That is it. The head sails will have specially designed soft hanks. That is it. Simple. I will have a little bag down below of replacement stays that have a thimball spliced on one end of them and that can be cut to any length to replace any stay that may need it and some extra deadeyes. That's it and it will maybe weigh a few pounds at most thereby elliminating a lot of poop to be stored.
I am also replacing my lifelines with spectra so Andunge will have zero wire rope aboard. Good riddance I say. I really like the idea that the boat will look old school going back to the early 'technology' of sailing. Early like pre-1940 back until the dawn of sailing sort of early. Whoever came up with wire rope being used as rigging should be taken out and hung by the stuff as far as I am concerned (thought that would be very hard to do being that if you bend it back on itself too hard it comes apart or kinks thereby creating a nearly impossible way of hanging someone) ::). I realize that at the time better technology didn't really exist or support better ideas but that time is over now. I think the name of the guy's company that I am dealing with is called "Back to the Future" or something like that. :D
ok, that was quite an answer... thanks for that! :D
I can see your point, and to some degree, share it.
It definetely reduces weight up in the air, and the sheer strength wouldn't be a problem.
The ease of DIY jury rigging repair/replacement at sea just might be an advantage. Personally I consíder rigging work with /Norseman/StaLock type fittings quite straight forward and easy. I have done some rigging work on other people's yachts too. Obvíously I could ditch the giant cable cutter i carry onboard and hardly ever use...
But when you talk about chafe... I just can't believe that. I wouldn't even change running rigging from rope/wire configuration to rope only due to the chafe factor. Albeit I know people who choose the other road, so it could be a matter of personal choice.
The cost for all spectra rigging would be a fair bit higher too, right?
I am curious as to what the Spectra is going to cost you. I would be a bit leery of using essentially experimental rigging on a boat going for a long-term cruise. Also, what kind of guarantee does he give the rigging and what kind of support will he give you if you have a problem.
The new generation is somehow made to combat the chafe issue better than older gererations. I don't know how it does it but I have seen the data.
If you pay attention to some of the big dollar racing vessels, they are making the change to spectra riggings. There is something to it and you will see it becoming more common over the coming years.
As for the cost. Yeah, it should be very expensive. Especially considering that the deadeyes are are specially cast for my application but the guy running the company made me a deal as I am his first customer. He is doing my rig, splicing, casting of hardware and the entire spare rig and lifelines and is only charging me for the hardware and the time for his splicing. He got the roll of the line that he is using for my rig as a sample from the company :-) and did not know what to do with it as it is so small so he has been using on his catamaran (Piver) as lifelines and using it for other small applications. He is a standup guy and he said I did not have to pay for it so why should you. That and it's his first paying job. My quote came to less than $500.00.
He guarentees the spectra for 10 years. Sounds too good to be true...but it is-thank god.
maxiSwede-
I forgot to mention that I am one of those people that runs with all line for my running rigging; 3 strand New England ;D
and I LOVE it!!! And the stretch does not cause me a problem. I am not sure that would be the case on a larger rig though.
and have never had a failure of any kind.
and I will not change to anything else as it is soooooo easy. I don't even have snap shackles on the ends going to the sails-only bowlines tied and my lines aren't even spliced on the ends-only heated up with a lighter. :o
One more thing I will point out about my rig for anyone freeking out about my decision to go to spectra for standing rigging: my mast is less than 25 feet high and I have 8 stays going to hurricane straps. I can fit some of my sails by pairs in a single standard size pillow case. The odds of failure is pretty slim and even if the rig comes down I have lots of options so long as it does not kill me in the process.
Andunge is a small, simple, sailing machine.
Period.
We use 3 strand dacron for main sheet and halyards on Tehani also. I have a shackle on the jib halyard but the main is tied directly to the head of the sail with a buntline hitch. I also use the buntline to tie on that shackle and for the dead end of the main sheet. No splices.
But on our jib sheets I don't tie knots anymore. I have double length sheets and use a toggle in the center. And obviously we use braid for jib sheets. ;)
Toggle closed, in use-
(http://downloads.c-2.com/photos/1192243599.jpg)
Toggle open-
(http://downloads.c-2.com/photos/1192243672.jpg)
We went to this setup since we have a reefing jib- this allows us to just switch the sheets from the regular clew to the reefing clew in a heartbeat.
Quote from: cgoinggal on October 12, 2007, 08:57:31 PM
maxiSwede-
I forgot to mention that I am one of those people that runs with all line for my running rigging; 3 strand New England ;
That definetely does NOT make me freak out ;D, Literally everyone used it in the 'good old days' and quite a few cost-conscious cruisers (aren't we all?) still do as far as I know.
And I DO know that the big racing boats use spectra and the likes... they also use carbonfibre masts and sails and swinging keels. Not really within my budget for a simple, secure, comfortable crusing boat ;)
Anyway, I understand that you are getting that new rigging on the cheap. Congrats and please report back to this forum after testing it out.
Fair winds//M
CharlieJ -
Please forgive an ignorant pagan, but what is a buntline hitch? Nothing my english teacher back in school did mention ;) I don't want to bother you, but IF you have a pic, it would be nice. I am quite certain that I will recognize the knot upon eyesight.
Great idea with that jib sheet toggle! I am going to adopt it right away. I am a big fan of reefable jibs myself. Haven't yet had to reef it in 2500 miles this summer though. Went with jib and mizzen(main lashed to the boom) a couple of times and storm jib alone one time... But even if it won't be reefed that often, it's a great option instead of changing during a sudden squall IMHO
Sure- here's a wikipedia link to a description but it's basically a clove hitch tied toward the load point. It was used to secure the bunts to square sails and I guarantee if you tie it correctly it WILL NOT come loose. A bowline can shake out - I've had them do it. A Buntline hitch jams and if it has had a lot of load you'll need a spike to untie it. Perfect for halyardsl I tie directly to the main sail because we've had shackles come open and drop the sail, requiring a trip up the mast- now I don't worry about that on the main. The halyard stays permanently bent on.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buntline_hitch
I use the buntline hitch for several lines on my boat. My one caveat about the knot is that it is very, very, very difficult to untie if it has been sitting under a load for any extended period of time. I would not recommend using it to tie to the head or clew of a sail, since it tightens up significantly under load and would crush the sail fabric. It is a very good knot for use with shackles, and due to the shape of the knot, tends not to get stuck in sheaves at all.
well- since our main is jib headed and has a honkin' big grommet up there I don't worry over much about crushing the fabric. ;D
But that is a good point- I made it in my post also- the hitch tightens HARD so it isn't gonna come undone. A bowline, particularly one tied as a loop, can and will shake undone. It is really NOT a safe knot for something that flogs- even on jib sheets there are better choices.
My point is that if you're using it for the halyard, to attach it to the head of the sail, you'll probably want a shackle there instead of tying directly to the sail. If you have to change the sail, you'd generally have to cut a buntline hitch off, since they usually can't be untied.
Yup- have to agree- which is why we use it on the main and not the jib- the jib has a shackle. but we seldom change anything on the main so it works fine for that. I wouldn't use it straight to a jib myself.
[quote author=CharlieJ link=topic=1261.msg11751#msg11751 date=1192297693
But that is a good point- I made it in my post also- the hitch tightens HARD so it isn't gonna come undone. A bowline, particularly one tied as a loop, can and will shake undone. It is really NOT a safe knot for something that flogs- even on jib sheets there are better choices.
[/quote]
That's right, happened to me a couple times, especially with a stiff sort of line
Wondering where I might find instructions/information on how to make up a rope toggle as illustrated by charliej's photographs of his jib sheets? Thanks
It's basically a short section of line with a knot in end whipped and probably stitched to the center of a long double-length sheet. I don't beleive there's anything special about the way it is done, since there isn't really much of a load on the connection itself. The important part is making sure the short section of line is stiff enough and long enough so that the eye won't be able to pull free of it or pull it through the clew of the sail.
pretty much says it. Stitching the toggle to the doubled line I feel is an important part of it.
Make the loop JUST large enough so when it''s shoved through the grommet the knot will JUST go through, but don't make it TOO tight.
As I search around the classifieds a lot of twin keel boats are coming onto the market. Most seem to be British and designed for the extreme tides.
My questions: How does these sail compared to "normal" keeled boats? Can they self-right or stay turtled? Possible to do some bluewater cruising (the scoot)? Anyone have any personal experience with twin keels?
Personally my cruising plans are for the SE US and Bahamas and almost any well maintained vessel will work with good judgement and I`m open to almost any design as long as it is seaworthy.
These boats are known as Bilge Keeled in the UK and you are right they are used for coastal cruising partly due to the extreme tides we experience, but also due to the extensive estuarine and inshore water cruising, (gunkholing?) where running aground is a distinct possibility and sometimes encouraged ???
But the main reason is they allow you to keep them on a drying mooring, very important as pontoon moorings are expensive and hard to find (waiting lists of over 5 years in some south coast marinas).
I have sailed in a few and they have limits to windward performance, but for coastal cruising thier benefits far outweigh any problems they may have, as for the self righting, thats more dependant on the displacement ratio than purely wether its bilge keeled.
As for bluewater capablities they are not generally classified as CAT A, but as with most things in life its more to do with the driver than the vehicle.
Hope this helps, Max
Personally I'd have not the slightest qualm about having a bilge keeler. Some of them have made amazing voyages.
Two things to bear in m mind-
While they dry out well on a tide, they also can become REALLY stuck if accidentally run aground- you can't heel one to get it off like a centerline keel boat. But then a wing keeled boat has the same quirk.
The other point is that most British boats are under rigged for east coast sailing. The British Isles are known for strong gusty winds- east coast winds tend to be MUCH lighter as a rule. SO they simply don't have the sail area that boats designed for those waters have.
Conversely British boats do well here on the Texas coast- we usually have lots of wind.
Neither of these is a serious deal breaker, but just things you should be aware of.
Quote from: Chattcatdaddy on July 29, 2009, 03:41:05 AM
As I search around the classifieds a lot of twin keel boats are coming onto the market. Most seem to be British and designed for the extreme tides.
I have gone "One better" than a Bilge / Twin Keeler..........mines got a Triple Keel 8).........for the very reason you state - tides. Not so much for accidental grounding, but for mooring. Not only cheaper than Marinas (which can often also be tidal, with a gate) - but (IMO) better!
One thing I will say about UK twin Keelers is that many were intended to be used coastal / family sailing, so whilst the twin keel configuration itself may not exclude her from more extended range cruising the rest of the design and / or build may do so!
Not to say of course that folk have not made long and extended voyages with twin keels under them. and with the right boat (and skipper!) I would be happy to do so. Just remembered I did once sail (only as Navigator) down to Northern Spain on a B/k Westerly Pentland (31')........I had a few concerns on that trip (Weather & Skipper ::)), but none about either the bilge Keels or the boat design.
Not being in your part of the world I cannot advise what UK twin keelers would be suitable for the use you intend (I am
guessing many, in the right circumstances wth the right Skpper - but I will NOT be saying that to you)...........buying out of position (Foreign / unfamiliar design) with unusual features for the local market (B/k's) may well lead to a good $$$ deal.
Although a broker, this website has good archives, with the index showing keel type!:-
http://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives.htm (http://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives.htm)
Thanks for all the information. I have seen about5 or so of these type boats in the classifieds and didn`t want to dismiss them because of my own ignorance. Also they seem to to selling for a pretty fair price.
Example.http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1975/Westerly-Centaur-26-Sloop-2093478/Pensacola/FL/United-States (http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1975/Westerly-Centaur-26-Sloop-2093478/Pensacola/FL/United-States)
Seems to be pretty heavy for a 26ftr.
We've crossed paths with a large number of Westerly Centaurs over the years and they are wonderful boats. The layup and glass work on the Centaurs is massive in comparison to most modern boats and they have a very reasonable and livable interior. For less than 5K it is something of a no-brainer!
They won't sail to windward as high as some boats (though still better than almost all multihulls) but they will also let you sail into places that other boats can't get into... Like I said great boats
Bob
http://boatbits.blogspot.com/
http://fishingundersail.blogspot.com/
http://islandgourmand.blogspot.com/
Westerly Centaur?! Still in demand over this side of the world, and funnily enuf my father is starting to look for one 8)
They do sail better than they look! and, as said, a very liveable interior.
They were known at the time for being well built, and they sold a lot of them - the first true mass produced family sized cruiser in the UK, but built before folks worked out how to make mass produced boats really cheaply........... but of course, like any older boat, will by now have age related issues.
Just re-read your opening post, certainly would self right! Albeit of course not unsinkable. Just like a single keeler would not turn turtlle due to solely wind action. ............me father has just turned 75 he wouldn't be after anything where inverting was on the agenda, even if he will be mostly Bay Sailing.
There is a Westerly (probably 31) on the Great Salt Lake and I doubt it got all the way there on a trailer!!! Probably had a fair sailor at one time.... TJ
Quote from: TJim on July 29, 2009, 05:40:50 PM
There is a Westerly (probably 31) on the Great Salt Lake and I doubt it got all the way there on a trailer!!! Probably had a fair sailor at one time.... TJ
Thats what I was thinking as well. I doubt all of these sailboats were crated across to the US. Too bad I`m not gonna be in the market for at least a year.
My first fibreglass boat was a Westerly 25 built in 1967. There used to be a distributor on the west coast of Canada. I found it to be a very solid boat, very well built and a good if not lightening fast sailor. Good basic interior with 4 berths, head, and galley. Volvo MD1 diesel. I owned her for 2 years and spent one entire summer cruising the B.C. coast. While our harbors don't all dry out it was handy to beach her for bottom cleaning instead of paying.
In 1987 I purchased a 35' strip plank sloop that was built locally by Bent Jesperson - also twin keeled. Before my ownership she sailed to Mexico and back. I cruised locally and sold her in 1995 to her designer who proceeded to refit her. He changed the rudder configuration to three! One matching each keel and a central one for powering. Then he proceeded to sail to New Zealand and back successfully. While I would not look specifically for a twin keel boat (I didn't the first two times) , I would not hesitate to purchase one again.
Here is a link to her listing as she is currently for sale by her designer with many pictures.
http://velayachtsales.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?&units=Feet&id=1833469&lang=en&slim=broker&&hosturl=newportyachtsintl&&ywo=newportyachtsintl&
Brian
Now thats a awesome looking sailboat! I bet she turns a few heads while sitting on the hard. ;D
Go to the link in my post and see the rest of her. Quite an interesting boat with a unique but very workable interior. When I had her the settee to port was U shaped and the next owner (her designer) changed it to a settee with sliding pilot berth above but other than that the interior is as it was when I was the owner. The table and galley are as I refinished them in the early 90's. Interesting galley with the stove dead centre as opposed to against the hull side but again very workable. In some ways I still wish she was mine. But with the 27' CS I have now there is lower maintenance and moorage etc.
Brian
Like most everything in boats, it's hard to say good or bad about twin keels.
One of the most amusing stories I heard was of a yard owner in Seattle who pulled a twin keeler into his tiny yard, the first twin he'd had out of the water. He was very impressed with how it didn't need jacks or cradle, bow over a couple car hoods. (It really is a tiny yard, I've been there.) Once it was settled in, he walked forward to inspect the furler they were going to work on.... and it tipped forward onto the car under it. (Notoriously cheap, this particular yard owner was apparently shouting that he would pay for this, that, and the next thing damaged in the accident - and he did! good yard.)
On another hand, one of the coolest things about a bilge keeler is how, as they heel, the leeward keel actually gets deeper in the water. The keels usually have a slight toe-in, which done well will increase their tracking as well as their ability to stand up to their rig. There is a tendency to have less sail area than they might comfortably carry in lighter air regions, but they can handle a deal of thrash that sends the lighter beauties home with soaked and dispirited crew.
Back in Minnesota I passed a Westerly being carted around on a flatbed trailer. Clearly it wasn't going to launch without a lift, but talk about cheap trailerage!
Philip Teese has been sailing his Caprice class twin keeler for over 40 years. He did a great article in "small craft advisor" a while back on them explaining the differences and why some work extremely well and others not so well. I'll see if I can dig up the article. His conclusion was that properly designed they have a multitude of benifits. Shallow draft, grounding in tidal waters to scrub bottoms etc, being able to be aground and not heeled over for the night etc. The only draw back I see is not being able to get off an unplanned grounding as easily as you can't simply shift weight to one side.