I was the very, very grateful recipient of a hand-me-down inflatable dingy. I was told when it was given to me that it leaks. I assumed this meant it leaks air, which I thought was okay for our upcoming trip to the Gulf.
We took it to the lake this past weekend to test 'er out with the new oars. I rowed around for a while with no problems - heck, I actually found it quite relaxing. :)
With all four of us aboard, though, we took on 2 inches of water in 20 minutes. >:(
So, now I have to hunt down that leak before we need it for all of us dingy-ing. Fortunately, on the MS trip, it will only be me using the dingy, so it should not be a problem. ;)
Soapy Water will help you find your leaks. Also if you are in the water in it and are very very quiet, you may be able to see or hear the bubbles. :D You may have to leave the kiddies at home for that part of testing.
???
I'm a little confused. How will soapy water help me find the source of the water leaking into the boat? I admit I am very tired right now, so if this is totally obvious, please feel free to hit me on the head with your spar of choice.
bubbles will let you know where the hole is located, rubbing/sponging the soapy water over the boat. At least it will with a air leak. For a water leak hmmm, Ok fill the inside with soapy water were it shows coming out should be the leak. or add some vergetable dye to the water then fill the dingy.
The soap thing may still work turning the boat upside down and sponging it down.
Zen is a trifle confused. He is still under the impression that it is leaking air.
I have had the wet butt to know where you are coming from.
Nine times out of ten the stress in the floor panel is where it wraps around the transom board.
If you can set up the dinghy on really strudy trestles or saw horses and some timber and then fill the cockpit with water, it should give you a chance to see where it is coming from by using some dry newspaper that you can press up to various parts of the floor (and especially the floor/pontoon joins). Just press a folded bit of newspaper against the hull and hold for about ten seconds, then look for wet spots and mark the holes discovered with a marking pen.
After that it is the standard glueing-on-patches routine we all know and love. AFTER YOU DRAIN THE WATER, OF COURSE!
Alex.
Thanks. Filling 'er up with water sounds like a good idea.
Alex has a good suggestion, but it has to be very sturdy saw horses, and put a couple of 1x6 boards parallel to the dinghy's length under close to each of the tubes to spread the weight out more.
An idea: If you are searching for a floor leak instead of a tube leak, take it to the water (inflated), flip it over on the water, put soapy-water the bottom, and look for bubbles as you press down on the dinghy (ie; put pressure on the air trapped inside/under the boat). Seems like that might work, if you still have that leak, which I doubt since you used the dinghy in Ms. :)
Quote from: CapnK on September 17, 2006, 11:18:04 AM
if you still have that leak, which I doubt since you used the dinghy in Ms. :)
The leak only manifests itself with weight in the stern; while rowing, I sat up front and had "no" problems. I need to find and fix the leak before ALL of us can ride dry in the dink.
It does seem to be a floor leak, and might be related to the fact that chamber #1 (one of the floor chambers) does not hold air either.
Anyone know anything about the pros and cons of a Rollup Aluminum floor on an inflatable dinghy??
standard sort of problems re aluminium vs wood.
the al is lighter, but if you bump it hard enough to dent, it will stay dented.
if the al is plated, it will likely be more hassle-free then wood in terms of throwing it into a locker wet and ignoring it till you next need it...but it will corrode and grow abrasive "bumps" eventually.
I would not go the aluminium floor route because we use an electric outboard and have a battery bag that sometimes falls over sitting ont he floor...add a wave of salt water coming aboard and you end up with a zappy good time!
Not an issue if you row or use a petrol outboard.
Alex.
This is a pretty incredible inflatable. It motors, rows, sails, and can be had with a full liferaft canopy.
http://www.tinker.co.uk/html/functions.htm
The Portland Pudgy (http://www.portlandpudgy.com/) does much the same, but isn't an inflatable.
I appreciate the thought that went into the design and the consideration for small yacht owners and their storage issues....
I do have a little tiny amount of curiosity as to how one would go about attaching the life-raft modification kit to the boat while it hung in its davits, in 40knot winds, at 3am, while sinking and being pounded by 6meter waves.
Just a bit curiors....
I am also curious as to what happens to the rigid centreboard sleev in a situation where you are using the boat as a life raft and being bounced around the inside of it like a ball in a bingo barrel. The rigid seat and centreboard is just screaming "rib-breaker" in a liferaft application.
A liferaft which gives you a chance at self rescue and genuine propulsion is to be praised, though. I am all for liferafts that you can raise a jointed mast on and sail with some hope of success towards something.
Sasha
Quote from: AdriftAtSea on September 19, 2007, 09:59:40 PM
The Portland Pudgy (http://www.portlandpudgy.com/) does much the same, but isn't an inflatable.
Neat boat. Problem is carrying it on a small boat.
Is it just me or does their website look real close to the Tinker's?
In my opinion, most things that try to serve more than one function end up doing all of them poorly. I can certainly see the appeal of things like the Tinker, but I think in practice they fall short.
The question then becomes is it good enough? I don't know. I do remember a good bit of discussion and conflict on the subject some years ago.
Do any of the international maritime authorities certify the Tinker or the Pudgy as a life raft?
Does anyone out there know of a coating (rolled, sprayed, brushed) that will help reseal the skin of a very badly sun-abused hyprolyn (sp?) inflatable? I was given an inflatable that deflates to the point of relieving the higher pressure of being filled within 10 - 12 hrs but can find no pronounced leaks. I am pretty sure the tubes are just leaking thru the material on the top where the most UV damage has occurred and would love to reseal it with some type of polymer coating. I don't care about the cosmetics as I believe an ugly tender is very seldom stolen if a "pretty" one is in the same area.
Thanks in advance for any advice / info.
Haven't heard of such a product, Jim, but that doesn't mean it isn't out there...
What about if you got some UV resistant fabric (lightweight sailcloth or similar), then skim-coated a thin layer onto the top of the (inflated) tubes and one side of the fabric with quick setting 4200, and put them together, rolling them to force a good contact? That might work. Maybe someone has a better idea for the adhesive, or maybe you could try a small test patch.
Guess you can't sink an inflatable dink to see where it bubbles... ::) ;D
Just wondering???? Wonder if it's been tried or if it's even possible to make a dinghy out of 8" pvc pipe...I'm sure the standard fittings would contribute to the correct shape of a zodiac or something similar.
Whadayathinkaboutthat?
Bob
Jim,
If you really don't care about the appearance, then just paint it with inflatable paint, or any flexible paint. Rustoleum makes a plastic paint that will sort of work.
Buy the liquid tube sealer that is sold at West Marine. You pour it in the open valves, partially inflate , then tumble the boat end over end for a few minutes to coat the inside of the tubes. Once dried it should take care of any pin hole leaks. I've used it on a 20 year old boat and it worked great.
(http://www.alpackaraft.com/gallery/images_main/12_alpackaraft-92.jpg)
Anybody thought of using ones of these as a dinghy?
https://www.alpackaraft.com/store/index.cfm?CategoryID=53&do=list
For the price you can probably get a pretty decent Hypalon dinghy, with more cargo capacity, and probably greater durability.
True, but some people are looking for a dink that is small and easy to take out from below. This one is light and requires little space. It might be ideal for somebody who wants to go a long way without needing a Dink.
The problem is FINDING a really small inflatable that's made with Hypalon. Most if not all of the smaller, lighter ones use PVC.
Laura and I have been looking for something small to use on Tehani. We would really prefer Hypalon for the life span, but can't find a small ( 6'6-7 ') dinghy that uses Hypalon.
I was on the phone for about an hour the other day with Stephan Lance ( runs Defender) about this very subject, and we have pretty much concluded that in the size and weight range we want, it's gonna HAVE to be a PVC dinghy.
Avon Redstart 8 foot and 41lbs / 19Kg. Hypalon. Helluva lot easier to carry and move around than the 9 foot version (Redcrest) - I've used both. Not cheap new though - but Avon's really last.
http://www.ibsmarine.co.uk/buy-a-boat/avon-inflatables/Avon-Redstart-Inflatable-_exd.asp?plid=638&_ctrl=S&SearchText=Avon (http://www.ibsmarine.co.uk/buy-a-boat/avon-inflatables/Avon-Redstart-Inflatable-_exd.asp?plid=638&_ctrl=S&SearchText=Avon)
(http://www.ibsmarine.co.uk/gfx/products/zoom_3350_actionstart.jpg)
And this month yer get a free mermaid :P
I've never seen the alpacka before, but I'm now interested. For a single hander with serious space limitations that might be a very reasonable alternative. If it is back packable, almost certainly space can be found for it. Then you can take it with you on shore so it doesn't get stolen! Brilliant!
Has anyone seen or tried the $200 mini dinghy that West Marine sells?
jim
Hey PoleCat:
Yes, I bought a West Marine mini-dinghy at a boat show a few years ago.
It's really a PVC el-cheapo water toy with a fairly sturdy nylon envelope that should protect it from UV degradation (at least more than without it).
The most important thing about this little boat is BE SURE TO READ THE DIRECTIONS WHEN INFLATING IT.
I brought mine home when I first bought it (in February, at a boat show), and carefully inflated it in the living room. Then I folded it back into its bag and put it away.
The following summer, when I wanted to take it on a cruise, I just blew it up (without carefully reading the instructions). I popped a seam.
Eventually my wife was able to repair it (we needed more glue than what came in the repair kit--just buy contact cement at a hardware store).
I'll probably use mine again--it's easy to store it partially inflated on the side deck, inboard of the shrouds, where it is fully covered by the nylon shell. But if I had it to do over again, I probably would not buy it.
Hope this helps,
--Joe
Amassing boat all, especially the Alpacka Dory. White water rugged and it only weighs 5lb 8oz, 10lb with all the gear!! The lightest traditional inflatable weighs 40lb and I doubt they are all that rugged. I'm very intrigued. Thanks for posting..
Looking to retire my old dink for a shinny new inflatable.
loa 8' or less, not 8'6"that is too big, hypalon material.
so what do you have, what are the good points or bad points?
wood floor or air?
ribs are too big, too heavy, and no matter how strong you are ya just can't roll them up and put in a locker ;D
I finally made myself an opportunity to try out the Saturn KaBoat I bought in February. It's pretty decent, but its bench seats leave me sitting "too tall" for easy rowing or kayak-paddling.
The KaBoat looks like a regular inflatable dinghy that's been stretched fore-and-aft and squeezed athwarts; it's a bit over 12 feet long with a 3 1/2 foot beam. It's placarded for a total of 200 kg of "people and stuff" but I believe it could handle more. The PVC-fabric hull itself weighs about 35 lbs, with maybe 10-15 pounds more in the high-pressure inflatable floor, aluminum thwart-seats (that slide into "belt-loop" pouches atop the hull tubes), oars, carrying case, and a cheap hand pump. But the price is pretty good, at $500 plus $50 shipping.
My one gripe is with the top-of-tube thwarts. They're high enough, and the rowlocks are low enough, that I couldn't row easily without either "catching a crab" on the back-stroke or catching the oar-looms in my pockets! :-[ And the boat is high enough and wide enough that I'd need a very long kayak paddle to be effective.
I was surprised to find out that she tracked really well for rowing, and it all worked even better if I faced forward and rowed from the aft bench seat. She's also quite stable, even if I didn't try standing up while out on the water.
Now for a caveat - I took my "maiden voyage" on the C&O Canal, up between Pennyfield Lock and Violets Lock if you're familiar with the area upstream of Great Falls, MD. The biggest waves were from my oars and the wake I was leaving ... I wish I'd taken a GPS to see how fast I was moving her! ;D
I might have done as well, or better, if I'd gone ahead and bought a Sevylor "river kayak". Certainly that would have met my expectations better. But the KaBoat is pretty decent, and I've kept her too long to return her, anyways.
I was looking on-line at the saturn SD260 and would like to know how you would rate the quality of the saturn's.
The price looks good but how do you think they will hold upin the long run, anybody out there have time with them?
Thanks
Jay
Quote from: CaptMac on May 24, 2009, 02:19:40 PM
I was looking on-line at the saturn SD260 and would like to know how you would rate the quality of the saturn's.
The price looks good but how do you think they will hold upin the long run, anybody out there have time with them?
Thanks
Jay
I've had a Saturn SD 290 for about two years and really like it. I've posted about different details in various threads on this site.
It's a good work boat and serves quite well as a dink for the four of us. We can all four be aboard with a fair amount of gear as well. Runs about 5-5.5 kts with all four aboard powered by a 2.5 HP outboard. I've gone on 'pleasure rows' of two+ hours with the children and gear.
I think for the price, it's a good boat. YMMV.
Just wondering folks what is considered the better for an inflatable Welded or glued seems. I seem to be getting different stories from the sales guys.
George ::)
More important than seam construction is material. We insisted on Hypalon for longevity. We bought an Achilles BECAUSE it was Hypalon. I have a 12 foot Achilles I bought in 1980 and it's still holding fine at the sseams. It does. Have one very very slow leak in one tube but hey, it IS 29 years old!! Idoubt a PVC dink would even still be alive. They seem to expect them to die in 5--6 years.
Sounds like a leak on the transom somewhere if it only leaks with weight in it
Allan