Prepping my Seafarer 24

[Godot]

With only a year and nine months to the start of The Scoot, I already feel like I'm falling behind in prepping my Seafarer for the trip to the Bahamas.  Working from memory (I hardly ever have a chance to get to the boat, lately) here is a first draft work list and commentary.

The rig:

• Pull mast and inspect.
• Re-wire VHF antenna.
• Change to all rope halyards (I'm annoyed by the wire/rope splice).
• Probably replace stays, shrouds and hardware (I suspect they are as old as the boat).
• Install spreader boots on ends of spreaders.
• Repair "steaming" light.
• Possibly add masthead LED navigation lights.
• Re-step and tune.
• Acquire a genoa and storm jib.

The deck:

• Repair damaged bow pulpit.
• Possibly add additional stanchions (on the fordeck there is about seven or eight feet between the last stanchion and the bow pulpit ... in this dangerous area, an additional stanchion may provide peace of mind).
• Possibly replace stanchions with taller, double wire stanchions (right now the single wire height is just about knee level ... just right to overbalance the skipper if standing and send him swimming, or role him under the line if crawling.  Bad height all around).
• Possibly install stern pulpit (a little extra security, although I've never felt threatened while in the cockpit.  It would also provide a place to install solar panels or something.  If money allows we may see).
• Replace lifelines (30+ years old?).
• Replace forehatch.  (IMPORTANT!).
• Possibly add dodger  (I really want this, but time and money will be the determining factors).
• Build a bridge deck.
• Change the hatch boards from ½" to ¾" and provide barrel bolts to lock them in place.
• Replace windows (currently they leak ... I have the lexan on-hand, just need to find the time).
• Install additional cockpit drains.
• Install latches to lock the lockers closed (in case of knockdown).
• Install autopilot (I would prefer a vane, but the trip is only 650 miles ... carrying extra batteries would probably be cheaper).
• Possibly work up an emergency rudder that can clamp onto the outboard motor bracket (I believe I read that a couple of folks on Jester lost their rudders.  I used to think this was over thinking things, but maybe not.  We'll see.  I think it would be fairly cheap and easy to work something up that would clamp to the outboard bracket).
• Install a cockpit mounted manual bilge pump.
• Install jack lines and hard points.

Interior:

• Get some type of gimbaled stove (a seaswing or equivalent?).
• Build lee boards or cloths for both the starboard quarter berth (oddly, it is not as secure as you would think on the Seafarer) and the port settee.  
• Add batteries and strongly secure.
• Install a cabin manual bilge pump.
• Install a couple of red LED lights to protect night vision.
• Figure out some way to keep the lockers closed in the event of a knockdown.
• Possibly install AIS and/or CARD.
• Connect GPS to DSC VHF and possibly to AIS.

Hull:

• Scrape, sand, inspect, and paint.
• Glass over defunct head thru hull.

Paperwork and miscellaneous:

• Radio licenses?
• Get passport.
• Is insurance a requirement?
• Purchase Bahamas Courtesy flag.
• Purchase Quarantine flag.

Conclusion:
Ugh.  This is a top of head list.  I'm certain I've missed several items.   19 months doesn't seem like that much time at the moment.

Hopefully, I will edit this top of post message as I proceed down the list.  Hmm.  It might be time to get a second job ($$$).

[Lynx]

The biggest $$$$ is the sails and stays and bottom work. Good used sails would do you or maybe restiching yours.

Not haveing to take something off inorder to do something else is the biggest bug. Most of this is time. figure the summer work only projects.

[AdriftAtSea]

S/V Godot-

If you need advice, let me know, since I've done most of the things on your list at one point or another.  Also, the least expensive way to get LED navigation lights is to get AquaSignal 25 or 40 series nav lights and replace the bulbs with the new LED-based replacements that are now available.  If you need more information, let me know.

[Captain Smollett]

The rig:

• Change to all rope halyards (I'm annoyed by the wire/rope splice).

You too?  I cannot stand teh wire-rope halyard on my boat, either.  It's not even a proper splice.

The deck:

• Install autopilot (I would prefer a vane, but the trip is only 650 miles ... carrying extra batteries would probably be cheaper).

Have you considered sheet-to-tiller gear?  It is a GREAT alternative if you are not ready to fork out to buy, or take time to design/build/test a homemade vane.

I know I'll get a ton of grief about this, but there is NO WAY I (that's me personally) would 'count on' an electronic autopilot on a week long (or longer) offshore passage.  I have read too many stories about the things crapping out when you need them most - broken gears, water intrusion, etc.  Most folks seem to recommend carrying a spare - which to me speaks volumes about the reliability of these devices.

Sheet to tiller gear is inexpensive (note, I did NOT say "cheap"), easy to make up and best of all, SIMPLE.  No electronics, and you can make up a new set underway if for some reason something happens to your existing set.

Just some thoughts...

Interior:

• Figure out some way to keep the lockers closed in the event of a knockdown.

I'm going to take the approach mentioned as one time by Lin and Larry Pardey.  I will divide the settee cushions into three sections, each about 2 to 2-1/2 feet wide.  The bottom of the cushion will form the cover to the settee locker - lift the cushion section, get into the locker.

Now, to 'lock' the lockers down for rough weather, they have what looks like a seatbelt that is bolted down to the locker top.  To lock the cushions, down, clip the seatbelt together and pull the strap tight.  That's the plan I will shamelessly copy.

Hopefully, I will edit this top of post message as I proceed down the list.  Hmm.  It might be time to get a second job ($$$).

Could I ask that you please don't edit the top post?  By all means, I am interested in your updates and hearing how you went about ticking things off your list (again, so I can shamelessly copy whatever I can...   ;D ;D ), but editing the top post may render subsequent messages into nonsense to future readers of the site.

[Auspicious]

Snipped for efficiency:

The rig:

• Change to all rope halyards (I'm annoyed by the wire/rope splice).
• Acquire a genoa and storm jib.

The deck:

• Possibly add dodger  (I really want this, but time and money will be the determining factors).
• Change the hatch boards from ½" to ¾" and provide barrel bolts to lock them in place.
• Replace windows (currently they leak).

Interior:

• Get some type of gimbaled stove (a seaswing or equivalent?).
• Build lee boards or cloths for both the starboard quarter berth
• Possibly install AIS and/or CARD.
• Connect GPS to DSC VHF and possibly to AIS.

Paperwork and miscellaneous:

• Radio licenses?
• Get passport.
• Is insurance a requirement?
• Purchase Bahamas Courtesy flag.
• Purchase Quarantine flag.

I have rope/wire halyards also. Don't much like them. I won't replace them until I have to. Can you get a rigger to take a peek at the splices and give you a recommendation without spending more than it would cost to replace?

I have a 100 working jib and a 135 genny. Offshore I fly the 100 all the time. Maybe you don't need another sail for the Scoot.

Dodgers are really important to comfort offshore, particularly for small boats. Priority.

Barrel bolts are important.

Fix the leaks. I can't think of anything more miserable than leaks. In fact, set yourself up with a standard for wet and dry areas of the boat so you don't find the whole boat is damp five days offshore.

A gimballed stove is important (not critical, but important). Think about what you can cook ahead and reheat offshore. Canned food (like chili) and FoodSaver vacuum sealed meals are great.

Lee clothes are (in my opinion) overrated, particularly on small boats. I'm happier wedged in somewhere on the floor with a camping pad and a sleeping bag under me. Keep you pillow dry.

I'm not a big CARD fan, but maybe I don't know enough. AIS means you have that receiver and a display device (like a laptop) running all the time -- energy sink. GPS to VHF for DSC is an easy, fast, highly beneficial safety aid.

Do the legal stuff. Get the VHF license, the flags, the passport, etc. Insurance is a personal choice. Some marinas may require liability coverage but you can always anchor out.

sail fast, dave

[Lynx]

The new GPS map's are AIS friendly, you just need something extra to plug in.

tiller Auto pilots are easy to install and are better now than in the past, Set the sails first and then put on the auto pilot. Check for tension and keep covered. It should not be a problem with a 700 mile run. Much easier on the body.

[David_Old_Jersey]

It's always easy to add things to someone else's list  ;D

The rig:

• Pull mast and inspect.
• Re-wire VHF antenna.
• Change to all rope halyards (I'm annoyed by the wire/rope splice).
• Probably replace stays, shrouds and hardware (I suspect they are as old as the boat).
• Install spreader boots on ends of spreaders.
• Repair "steaming" light.
• Possibly add masthead LED navigation lights.
• Re-step and tune.
• Acquire a genoa and storm jib.

As you are going to be doing some mast work, how about adding spreader lights? Both for on deck working light and to light up the sail at night to announce your presence to another vessel.

The deck:

On the stanchions how about something radical. remove them altogether  :o Sounds like as old not to be relied upon, and even new they are a bit low to be of great use. and physhcogically you may be a lot more careful on deck without them and therefore safer. Plus easier to re-board if the worst does happen. No need to remove the stanchion bases of course. and cheap to do.

• Possibly add dodger  (I really want this, but time and money will be the determining factors).

I would definately go for a dodger (FYI they are called spray hoods in this part of world) - if money is tight no need for it to be all singing and dancing and built to withstand a F10. Make it of canvas and pretty much permanent by unbolting instead of being able to fold down neatly out of the way in 5 seconds if it makes construction easier / cheaper. But definately worth having.

• Install additional cockpit drains.

If the cockpit drains are in the right location (i.e. you are not sailing on a tack with 1/2 inch of water that never drains) I would fit larger drains rather than additional ones (if slow draining is the issue you are trying to address). Less holes in the hull and should be less work to fit.

• Possibly work up an emergency rudder that can clamp onto the outboard motor bracket (I believe I read that a couple of folks on Jester lost their rudders.  I used to think this was over thinking things, but maybe not.  We'll see.  I think it would be fairly cheap and easy to work something up that would clamp to the outboard bracket).

Sounds like a good idea. Maybe clamp onto the outboard itself? Prepared = not likely to use! I recall reading about more than a few rudder problems that did not involve losing the rudder - just the ability to steer it. Probably more to do with Wheel Steering - but the "fix" was to pre-drill a small hole in the top outboard edge of the rudder so in an emergency someone could dive and fix a line through and then up the deck each side and even if not able to used to steer would keep the rudder amidships.

• Install autopilot (I would prefer a vane, but the trip is only 650 miles ... carrying extra batteries would probably be cheaper).

In the absence of a Wind vane I would also be tempted by an Autopilot. But IMO also important that the boat can be set up to sail herself, whether this involves a sheet to tiller steering system or simply from balancing the sails / boat will depend on the vessel.......and of course the compromise may be that the most desirable course cannot always be followed depending on boat / wind / sea state - but IMO important that the boat can make progress (or at least steerage) without someone glued to the tiller 24/7, even if not down below having the full 12 hours beauty sleep  ;D

Also useful to be able to heave to, really makes life onboard simple - and boat is essentially not going anywhere (tidal stream excepting) if not done so already (yer probably have done it a million times!) then good to practice what works on your boat. Could give you an hours kip (or at least rest) in the place and at the time of your choosing........

Interior:

• Build lee boards or cloths for both the starboard quarter berth (oddly, it is not as secure as you would think on the Seafarer) and the port settee. 

I love lee cloths. and cheap as well  8) Mine are permanently fixed in position under the bunk cushions and strung up with clips in 2 seconds flat (obviously good quality clips and eyes firmly secured!) I even use mine in port! (saves the bedding / me falling off at night!).....also good for storing stuff on the bunk when underway. Floor can be good - but can be prone to getting wet.

• Add batteries and strongly secure.
• Install a cabin manual bilge pump.

A bit slow here  :P, I am guessing you do have an engine. if an outboard I would consider adding ability to charge the batteries when under power. And also an electric bilge pump. Will make pumping out easier, and gives you more chance to fix any leak rather than being glued to a bilge pump........and with a float switch will start pumping out a lot sooner than you notice! and either with an alarm or just the pump noise / a light will alert you to probs.

As you say, your list was top of your head - above all meant only as ideas. (sorry about the red, looks a bit OTT - but a pig to redo  :P)

[Godot]

Thanks for the comments so far.  Some comments to the comments, in very random order.

Regarding sheet to tiller steering ... it is gonna happen.  I still want the autopilot though.  I already have a Simrad TP10 living under my bed.  I just need to install it.

My boat has an outboard motor that does charge.  Slowly.  Maybe just enough to cover the nav lights.  I don't plan on using it, though.  In fact, I think I may build a cradle for it in the cockpit locker to store it for the trip.  However, I now remember I need to add SOLAR PANELS to the list.

Going without stanchions used to be the rule, not the exception.  Does it make the sailor more cautious?  Maybe, although I really don't trust them as is and do my best to avoid testing them out.  Still, I think I'd rather keep them as is than get rid of them all together.  Forget about getting back on the boat (actually, another item to add to the list is a boarding ladder).  I don't want to fall off in the first place!  The plan is to at least go for taller stanchions, a double lifeline setup, and new wire (or dare I suggest rope?).  If nothing else, I can throw some netting up on the foredeck that will help contain my (hanked on) jibs when down.

Speaking of jibs, perhaps Auspicious is right and I don't need the genoa.  I'll put it onto the luxury list.  A storm jib must happen, though.  And perhaps a third set of reef points in the main.  My main and 100% recently came back from SailCare and look almost new.  Hopefully they will hold up as almost new.

I DO have an electric bilge pump.  It works pretty well.  But if I run out of juice, or big water comes on board and kills my battery, or if the pump motor bites the dust, I'd be up poop creek.  I have the space to install a couple of manual pumps and don't see any advantage to not doing it.  The peace of mind/cost ratio is favorable.  At $79.99, the Plastimo Bilge Pump 1038 looks interesting.  It would fit the cockpit nicely.  I wonder how easy it is to use, and how durable it is.  The research is just starting!



I have one small cockpit drain that won't even completely clear the cockpit of rain water.  At least one, and probably two, additional (big) drain(s) is/are absolutely critical to me.  I can live with another hole in the transom.

As a single hander, I'm really excited about AIS.  Sure, it takes power.  But, there are options out there like the NASA/Sitex AIS RADAR which are pretty energy efficient.  I'm actually hoping that in the next year and a half some better (and cheaper?) solutions come on the market.  Running a laptop full time on my little boat just isn't practical.  But, maybe it would be possible to connect an AIS receiver (relatively low amps) to a pocket pc (very low amp).  I am not aware of any software to make this work; but if I have time (ha!) to do it myself, I may be able to dust off my very rusty programming (and trigonometry) skills and get it to work.


I'm looking into options for LED nav lights.  I'm trying to decide if I want to put a tricolor/anchor light on top the mast, or if I'm happy with deck mounted nav lights.  I'll be pulling the mast in the next couple of weeks, so I guess I better figure it out.  Links to LED replacement bulbs would be welcome, Dan.

Spreader lights.  Hmmm.  I've never used them.  For working the deck at night I've so far been happy enough with a head light.  If I need to light the sails up I could just use my million candlepower spot.  But, if I'm going to install them, this would be the time.  Since I need to fix my steaming light anyhow, perhaps and Aqua Signal Series 25 Masthead / Foredeck Light (Defender: $53.99) would be good.


I really like the seatbelt method of keeping the lockers closed.  It sounds fairly easy and inexpensive.  I will definitely consider it.

I have in my head the beginning plans of a hard dodger that might not look horrible on my boat.  It would provide a nice place to mount a couple of solar panels.  And, I think I can make it easily removable in case I need to get rid of it in a hurry for some reason (hurricane?  <shudder>  :-\)

I wouldn't mind some additional insight on gimbled stoves.  How about the Forspar Mini-Galley ($123.40 at Defender), or the Seacook Gimbaled Stove ($99.99 at West Marine).  Or, maybe even the Origo 1500 (Defender: $219.99) with Gimbal kit (Defender: $74.99) for a rather larger amount of outlay.  At this time I am not ready to take Godot around the world, or even into the deep Caribbean for extended periods, so fuel type and availability is not important to me.  I can easily carry enough for a couple of months.

[Tim]

Adam, I installed one of the Plastimo manual pumps on my P19 a few years ago and have one to be installed on the Ariel. I like it for its convenience factor in that it is right where you need it if you are have to be at the helm and pump at the same time. I have not used it out of necessity yet (and hope I never do ;) ) But it does pump well and certainly is out of the way. Like all plastic it will deteriorate in the sun, but since I typically keep my boats covered pretty well it still looks like new.


Tim

[CharlieJ]

OK- I have to reply in sections since it won't accept my post - says it's "too long- upload is full"

So I'll post under this in chunks- ???'

[Lynx]

I have 2 SeaCock DOUBLE gimble stove. This unit does not let the wind blow it out and does hold the pot well. Used for 8 months , 2 times a day or more each. 2 complants, they get dirty (OK, I don't know how to cook without making a mess) and if something pushes the knob in it lets out fuel (this is rare, just do not set anything that will lay against it)

I use REI backpacking cookware.

[CharlieJ]

Some of my thoughts on this subject-

"Regarding sheet to tiller steering ... it is gonna happen.  I still want the autopilot though.  I already have a Simrad TP10 living under my bed.  I just need to install it."

Do set up sheet to tiller. Laura and I have steered Tehani for as long as 48 hours using it. Simple, effective and very cheap. Here's an excellent site on the subject. we also carry a Navico Tp 300 and I'm in the process of building a wind vane. I HATE to hand steer offshore- BOOOOORRRRING!!!

http://www.jsward.com/steering/index.shtml

"Going without stanchions used to be the rule, not the exception.  Does it make the sailor more cautious?  Maybe, although I really don't trust them as is and do my best to avoid testing them out.  Still, I think I'd rather keep them as is than get rid of them all together."

I don't trust them to keep me aboard either- but they DO make great places to hang drying clothes and to hang fenders- Grin

"Speaking of jibs, perhaps Auspicious is right and I don't need the genoa."

Sailing east coast waters during the summer would make a Genoa a very good thing. Here in Texas we don't have a lot of use for one- our 100% jib is the workhorse. But when I was over on the east coast cruising, a big genoa and even an assymetrical spinnaker sure was nice- LOTS of light air over there.

"I DO have an electric bilge pump."

So do we, but we also have a Whale Gusher 10 mounted so it can be used from the helm

"I have one small cockpit drain that won't even completely clear the cockpit of rain water.  At least one, and probably two, additional (big) drain(s) is/are absolutely critical to me. "

Tehani came with two very small drain holes into the engine well- 5/8ths inch I think, but with the hose kinks, much less. I built a pair of 1 5/8 fiberglass tubes and replaced the wimpy drains with those. We do sometimes get a bit of water in the cockpit when she's running hard, but nothing I can't live with. Besides- the front of the engine well is a 8 by 12 inch opening directly out the engine well.

AIS?? I'll pass for now- much more energy use than I want to provide.

"I'm looking into options for LED nav lights.  I'm trying to decide if I want to put a tricolor/anchor light on top the mast, or if I'm happy with deck mounted nav lights. "

Looking into LED nav lights, but darn- it's gonna cost us 150 bucks for 3 bulbs!!! Our bow combo light is mounted up under the top tube on the pulpit, NOT on the deck by the way.

I DO NOT want a mast head anchor light- had one before. I don't think they are in the right place. The people you want to see you while at anchor are the ones in small power boats- they AREN'T looking up- they are looking ACROSS the water. I want my anchor light down low, at roughly eye level. By the way- COLREGS calls for one "in the forepart of the vessel" as part of the regs.

Spreader lights? Never used them, never missed them. I guess they'd be nice, but since I've never had them I really can't say. We won't have them.

The seatbelt idea is pretty decent- ALL of our lockers or opening doors onboard Tehani have finger holes and when you reach in you find a turn button. Those turn buttons are ALWAYS in the locked position, even at anchor or in her home slip. Works for us.

Oh and we do have a cloth set up on the settee to keep us in the thing when heeled. Nice place to sleep, but in rough stuff, the cabin sole works well also. I've used both Grin

I'd love some sort of dodger, but just plain can't figure how to rig one- the boom is already very low, so the dodger would be VERY low- hard to get in and out. Barrel bolts on the drop boards are one our list however.

[CharlieJ]

Stoves- we use an old SeaCook which has a different pot holder than the one pictured and mounts differently. I have converted it to kerosene and we carry a complete spare stove..

Personally I don't care for it, but  propane would also be an option, but not the little bottles if you are gonna cruise-

Forget alcohol for long term- it's simply too expensive when you go foreign long term. Or even stateside if you are cooking a lot- it's known as THE most expensive fuel.

Of the three you pictured, I'd choose the Seacook from West. Here's what ours looks like now-



By the way- it was the picture it wouldn't let me post >:(

[AdriftAtSea]

Adam-

I just installed that same steaming/foredeck light.

You can get the replacement LED bulbs for the AquaSignal 25-series and 40-series fixtures here. 

As for keeping lockers shut, padlock hasps work quite well.  I like the stainless steel Suncor ones, which have can be locked shut without using a padlock, since the eye for the padlock shackle rotates.



If you go with solar as your main charging system, get an MPPT charge controller, since it will increase your panels efficiency about 30% over a regular charge controller.

I like the plastimo bilge pumps, and have installed a couple on friends' boats.

[CharlieJ]

As for keeping lockers shut, padlock hasps work quite well.  I like the stainless steel Suncor ones, which have can be locked shut without using a padlock, since the eye for the padlock shackle rotates.

I was assuming he(we?) were talking about lockers INSIDE the boat, not out in the cockpit. For outside, hasps with turn buttons or the latching kind I have with pins in them both work.

I wouldn't want hasps on inside lockers.

[Bill NH]

Speaking of jibs, perhaps Auspicious is right and I don't need the genoa.  I'll put it onto the luxury list.  A storm jib must happen, though.  And perhaps a third set of reef points in the main.  My main and 100% recently came back from SailCare and look almost new.  Hopefully they will hold up as almost new.

Don't give up on the genoa, and even think about an asymmetrical spinnaker or similar.  Most people outfitting cruising boats tend to buy all sorts of storm sails that never get used.  For reducing sail a main with a deep 2nd or a 3rd reef and a small jib (75-85% or so) will do fine for an April run to Bermuda.  But odds are good that you'll have light airs for at least part of the trip that time of year, and there's nothing as frustrating as wallowing along undercanvassed, without enough sail to hold her steady and keep her moving... (and it can add day(s) to your trip!)  Definately have at least a 135 aboard, and an asymmetrical too if you have the room and the $$.

[s/v Faith]

WRT bilge pumps;

  I have the Plastimo also, it is a back up to the two electric pumps I have.  If you have not already, it is worth taking a look at Bilge Pumps, employment, care and feeding.

[AdriftAtSea]

Charlie-

You're correct... my bad. :)

As for storm jibs... I'd highly recommend getting a Gale Sail from ATN or something similar.  It helps prevent your roller furling genny from unfurling and gives you a very strong, small storm sail.  As for the main, I'd second the third reef option.  I just had Harding Sails put a third reef in my mainsail for that very reason.

[Godot]

Charlie-

You're correct... my bad. :)

As for storm jibs... I'd highly recommend getting a Gale Sail from ATN or something similar.  It helps prevent your roller furling genny from unfurling and gives you a very strong, small storm sail.  As for the main, I'd second the third reef option.  I just had Harding Sails put a third reef in my mainsail for that very reason.

Hanked on sails.  I would like to get roller furling, but not enough to spend the money. 

[AdriftAtSea]

Then a small storm jib would be a  good idea. :)  I went with a Gale Sail since I wanted the security of it preventing the 150% genny from unfurling... that would be a disaster. :)