Anchor set-On sail, Solo

[s/v Faith]

Thistlecap,

  Nice write up.  We often will furl teh jib on the approach, so we can slow the surveying speed.  But then again, if we decide to leave it is no problem to put it back out.

  I like that you include this;

Anchoring Under Sail Singlehanded......
There's no advantage to trying to set an anchor with power, contrary to popular opinion.  I've done it both ways myself and with students, and if anything, found the use of power to complicate the process and induce other complications.

  I only dive the anchor if visibility is good, in the Bahamas I was often looking to go for a swim anyway.  I did not find the 'fall back' of the boats momentum ever failed to set my Manson Supreme.  No need to start a motor just to set the anchor.... at least I have not found it to be so.

[Tim]

Well explained succinctly Thistlecap A grog for ya!

[maxiSwede]

@thistlecap

That was very well explained and written.  ;D

ever considered writing an 'learn to sail...' ABC book??  There's probably some dollars to make too...

Since you are teaching sailing, you do have tons of fun storieas from real life for the book as well.  ;)

cheers

[CharlieJ]

Once back into open water, prepare for anchoring.  Chain will rarely jam in the locker, but lines tangle and kink, so chain and line rodes should be flaked out on the side deck with enough free to run to meet your 5:1 scope or better. 

Very nice writeup, but I'd like to add one thing to this line- once you have the rode flaked out on the side deck at approximately the right scope, CLEAT IT DOWN.

Should something untoward happen, a free running rode can be nearly impossible and quite dangerous to stop, particularly an all chain rode.

[skylark]

grog

You did not finish the description regarding when you pull the anchor in from hanging at keel level.

I assume you wait until the mud is cleaned off and you are on a longer tack in the open water using autopilot or other self steering?

[CharlieJ]

Actrually he did cover that Skylark- in the third from last paragraph- see the last sentence of this quote.

Leaving the anchor deep enough to clear the forefoot of the boat does several things: it saves a lot of time needed to weigh and secure the anchor, it starts the process of washing the anchor, and it leaves it immediately available to reset if needed.  However, you want the anchor no deeper than the draft of the boat so it doesn't set in the bottom accidentally or pick up the rode of a nearby vessel you're passing.  When maneuvering in an anchorage, always cross an anchored vessel's stern.  Never cross its bow unless you're really well clear.  Once in open water, you can let the sheets run and clean the anchor and ship it at leisure.

[skylark]

Got it, thanks very much for the description, I learned a lot.  Old dog -> new trick.

[Oldrig]

Thistlecap,

Excellent articles!

Your description of anchoring under sail reminds me of the way I used to anchor and approach the mooring when I had my catboat; there was no room on the foredeck, so I did everything from the cockpit at a 45-degree angle with the main luffing. I wonder if that approach would work with a sloop. (Probably not.)

Anyway, your two articles have given me some good ideas--especially the on about running slowly with the anchor dangling at forefoot depth. What a great way to clean the hook.

Thanks and Grog!

--Joe

[thistlecap]

I think you have the idea, but to follow through, you are just concerned initially with clearing hazards, whether a lee shore, shoals, or other anchored boats.  As soon as you're some place where the boat can drift a few minutes without mishap, get the anchor cleaned, aboard, stowed, and secured.  Most boats will self-tend once you let the sheets run, but if you have a low displacement, fin keel or spade rudder that makes the boat a bit skittish, you can solve the problem for sure by heaving-to.  The boat will then self-tend and give you all the time you need.  Carry a bucket forward when you go with a 6-ft. lanyard on it.  Dip some water to weight the bucket to keep it from blowing overboard while working on the anchor, or use a slippery clove hitch to make it off to the lifeline.  Once the anchor is aboard, use the bucket to sluice the anchor, chain, or deck, and everything is done in one trip forward.  Once you return to the cockpit, you're ready for the day ahead.

Oldrig, if you're referring to making the approach on a close reach rather than going into irons, yes, it works fine on a sloop.  It's also the best approach for picking up a mooring or man overboard.  You have positive control at all times rather than being totally out of control when in irons.  Grab the mainsheet purchase and fill the sail just a bit if you need more momentum, luff when you can slow down, stall if you need to stop quicker.  The added advantage of not being in irons in a man overboard situation is you don't know what tack the boat will fall off on.  This leaves the chance that the victim may end up on the lee side of the boat with the chance of being pulled under the boat.  Not to get too far off subject, but you should be proficient doing MOB retrievals under sail.  Avoid switching from sail to power to pick a man up, but that's another subject.

[Captain Smollett]

  Not to get too far off subject, but you should be proficient doing MOB retrievals under sail.  Avoid switching from sail to power to pick a man up, but that's another subject.

Indeed; it's MUCH harder to do than to TALK about doing.

We've done such drills under sail when either picking garbage from the water or retrieving gear lost overboard (GOB or SOB - 'stuff overboard'?).

Anchoring under sail or even picking up a mooring is a piece of cake compared to trying to retrieve something that is moving (ie subject to wind, wave and current).  Such exercises have humbled me into learning how much I have to learn about handling under sail, and I have gone "engineless" for an entire season.