From Tehani - out cruising

[CharlieJ]

LOL-yeah we had a few good days. Right now trying hard to get across the gulf to Tarpon Springs. Gearing up for our fourth squall since 0100 this morning. Easiest one has had 25 knots. Last one we stuffed the bow at least a half dozen times.

Weather forecast lie.

[AdriftAtSea]

And you're surprised by the weather forecast being wrong why???

[CharlieJ]

 ;D I'm not-I'm used to it ;D

[Grime]

[CharlieJ]

Well we finally made it to Tarpon Springs. 29 hours offshore, most of which was great sailing. Did a good bit of motor sailing too but the pure sailing was wonderful-29 hours on one tack, and an aosr full moon too.

Glad we waited the extra day or so.

[Frank]

Glad you're in and had a good passage. Full moons are beautiful out there ;D The first night 'in' after a passage is always nice. Relax...enjoy

[CharlieJ]

Yep-had a nice 12 hour nap :D

Planning to wander around T.S. today

[CharlieJ]

September 29 - October 7

A fuzzy white caterpillar clings to a leaf as it sweeps past Tehani's hull. A palm tree log gets caught on our anchor chain.  It takes a boat hook and some maneuvering at the helm to convince it to move along. Flood waters to the north have brought leaves, twigs, limbs and logs down the Apalachicola River then led them through Saul Creek where we are anchored. The banks of the creek look like a backdrop for a Tarzan movie. I recognize a few cypress and palm trees but the rest is a jungle of unknown trees, vines and underbrush. It comes alive with mysterious screeches, hoots and growls that echo hauntingly between the two shores as the sun goes down.

It's the mysteries that lay ahead that concern me. A few early mornings spent under covers when the temperature dropped into the fifties remind me that I am further north than I was when I left Port Lavaca in July.  I am anxious to get south before the northers start marching down with a vengeance and to go south means venturing into the Gulf of Mexico when the protection of the waterway ends at Carabelle. I need to study the coast, plan routes, set waypoints, watch the weather patterns, think about the "what if's", allow for options and make sure the boat and our gear is ready. I feel my pulse quicken just thinking about it.

It's time to find a dock in town. I have no cell phone coverage here so I cannot watch the frontal systems on the internet. I need to download updated charts to my Iphone and laptop, fill the water tanks, top off with fuel and buy a few groceries. Then we will wait. Wait for a weather window to cross the Gulf. 

I have sailed in the Gulf twice before. One was a miserable seasickness ridden twenty-four hours in 15-25 kt. winds with waves that sloshed around like they were trapped in a bathtub. The other was two and a half days, a large portion of which was spent with 3-5 ft. waves on the beam causing Tehani to nearly dip the end of her boom in the water on every wave and me in a dull stupor caused from the medication I took to keep away the seasickness. I want this time to be different. I need a GOOD offshore trip. I know one can be had. 

Charlie said he thought we would jump across to Cedar Key when I asked him a couple of days ago but looking at the chart my inclination is to head for Anclote Key at Tarpon Springs. Cedar Key is not that much farther south and stopping there would mean another jump in the Gulf to get to Anclote Key where the waterway begins again. It is about seventy miles to Cedar Key from the Dog Island anchorage just south of Carabelle so we would need to leave before dawn to arrive by nightfall and I'm not sure I am comfortable with heading into the Gulf in the dark. On the other hand, a couple of people have told me that Cedar Key would be a worthwhile stop and Anclote Key is more than twice as far making for a longer stay in the Gulf. I don't know what to do. 

We watch a cold front stall just to the north of us on the weather maps while we explore the town of Apalachicola, make new friends and get Tehani ready to go. The forecasts projecting the movement of the cold front seem to change every few hours so we wait.

Did I mention that I enjoyed a long, relaxing hot shower at the marina yesterday evening? I can't remember where or how long ago it was when I had the last one. Don't misunderstand. I get showers all the time but they are quick, usually lukewarm showers from our pressurized garden sprayer or it is a sponge bath on the cabin sole when it is too cool and windy or there is a lack of privacy in the anchorage.  A long hot shower is a luxury these days but that's okay.  

I hear from friends that they will be at Government Cut in the bay just south of Apalachicola waiting to head out into the Gulf. He has made this crossing before.  I want to see them and talk to them but there is no protected anchorage near the cut. St. George Island will protect us from any wind with a southerly slant but if it goes to west with this frontal system it could get rough. Then again, it is only a few miles back to the river. 

I don't know what to do. I have never been so full of indecision. I am stalled just like that darn cold front. I have to do something; make a choice; do anything. Maybe I am looking for answers or reassurances that can't be found but I decide to go see my friends.

We spend the evening sharing stories of our journeys then dinghy back to Tehani and drift off to sleep. The howling wind wakes me as a storm blows through and I watch through the companionway to make sure we are not dragging down on our friend's boat. 

Dark clouds marching eastward this morning bring nasty west winds but there is no thunder or lightning and little rain. Wind and waves build with each approaching cloud then dissipate as they pass. Tehani pitches wildly, stuffing her bow threw a wave at times. Perhaps prudent seamanship and a protected anchorage would have been the better choice but I am here now and although it gets uncomfortable, we are in no real danger. 

The storms finally abate and the forecast for the next two days is west and southwest winds at 10-15 kts., waves 2-4 ft. and diminishing. From here it is about 100 miles to Cedar Key so we can leave this morning and arrive during daylight hours tomorrow. I start the motor, Charlie hauls in the anchor and we head for the jetties.

The outgoing tide helps carry us throuh the narrow cut toward the Gulf as Charlie raises the main but the current pushes us westward on the bay side then eastward as we near the other end. I have to keep an eye on the channel markers to keep us from straying beyond them. As we near the mouth I see what I hoped I wouldn't: rollers coming in from sea and stacking up at the jetty entrance because of the opposing tide. I don't think they are as bad as the ones Charlie led us through for my first offshore trip but this time I am at the helm. I concentrate on keeping Tehani's bow pointed straight into them and give the motor a little more throttle. Tehani pitches up and down barely managing to clear one wave before the next is under her bow. It is truly amazing that a boat can make forward progress in this poop.  She does but it seems we are at the last channel marker before the wave period becomes more manageable. 

Waves rolling in from the south are on our beam as we head for Cedar Key even though the winds are more westerly. I have flashbacks of our sail from Southwest Pass, Louisiana to Freeport.  Sights and sounds become muted and a sense of nausea seems to linger in front of my face. I feel like that caterpillar clinging to the leaf being swept somewhere he really didn't want go when I remember something my friend had said, "You can choose which route is most comfortable." At the very same moment, Charlie turns to me and asks if I would rather go to Anclote Key. "Yes. I would!" I change course putting the waves forward of the beam and my seasickness begins to subside. 

We will have to maintain an average speed of four and a half miles an hour to make Anclote Key before dark tomorrow. Five will give us time to get to a secure anchorage off the river. We sail with the main and the jib until our speed drops to four then we start the engine and motorsail. At 11:30 we are out of sight of land making hull speed under sail with Charlie at the helm. We are taking two hour watches giving us time to do a few things and still get a good hour's sleep during our time off. I am down below trying to rest after my first watch when I feel my seasickness creeping back. I slice off a piece of fresh ginger, place it between my cheek and gum then pray that it works. Within minutes I am back to normal. "Yay!" 

At four in the afternoon we set up the tiller pilot to steer and ease our burden. Waves off the stern quarter cause it to stray further off course than I would like during my watch and I fuss at it like it was a person. I have no idea why I called it Albert but I did.  

Before I go to sleep I heat water to put in the thermos for making hot cups of tea or soup during the night. The sun will be setting soon. I wake when Charlie turns the motor off. It is dark and we are moving at five to six miles an hour under full sail with Albert at the helm when I come on watch. I watch the moon rise and sit in the warm evening breeze with a cup of tea listening to the water rush by.  The beauty of motion and harmony give me an overwhelming sense of joy. This has to be the ultimate in voyaging. 

Two-thirty in the afternoon we pass the entrance marker at Anclote Key and at four-thirty we are anchored in a snug hole just off the river. I'm going to sleep like a rock tonight. :)

[Tim]

Thank You Laura for taking us along :)

[jotruk]

excellent read very good story telling, makes you feel like you are there in person

[s/v Faith]

Laura,

  Beautiful job.  It is so much more simple isn't it?  The little things you notice, and can recall are one of the major differences from the normal (mundane) shore existence.

  A caterpillar drifting by, the joy of a hot shower... how much more do we enjoy them?  Hard to say, but thanks for taking the time to share.   ;D

[newt]

You guys are almost to Edgemont Key, then on to Venice, Boca Grande and Pelican Bay. I'm so excited! The best part of Florida lays ahead and you are just getting there at the perfect season! Don't forget to explore Edgemont- the old fortifications are fascinating! Good anchorage in the south-east half moon bay. Man I wish I could be there!

[maxiSwede]

Laura,

  Beautiful job.  It is so much more simple isn't it?  The little things you notice, and can recall are one of the major differences from the normal (mundane) shore existence.

  A caterpillar drifting by, the joy of a hot shower... how much more do we enjoy them?  Hard to say, but thanks for taking the time to share.   ;D

Ditto that!  Nice story-telling... Enjoy the cruise!  ;D

[Pablo]

Thanks very much for sharing.  I felt like I was a fly on board.  I look forward to more updates. 

Fair winds!

[CharlieJ]

Howdy folks- We're at Clearwater Beach fl tied to a friends dock. Got a bit nippy here the last few nights - Laura doesn't like cold in the least so she wasn't a real happy lady- grin.

Weather has turned nice so in the morning we plan to head for Egmont Key
on the outside for a couple of days then on to either St Pete or Bradenton for a few.

Sent some pics to the Capt to post but I guess he's still incarcerated. Grin
Charlie

[Frank]

no sympathy here CJ. Been scraping ice off the car window in the mornins for a week  ;) Have fun

[newt]

Don't forget the old fortifications on the northwest side of Edgemont. Have fun! And why stop at Brady, when Venice is so much more a cruising town? (take the outside for a great sail and up into town) Make sure and have some Spinach-crab dip at the Crows Nest for me!

[CharlieJ]

VIsiting friends in Bradenton. No reason to not stop at both though-no schedule

[nowell]

Good on you CJ and Laura. Your not missing much here at home. Took 3 days off last weekend, and got a bit of a sail in when the weather was a perfect (for our area) 73. Still wish I was southward bound with you guys tho!

Stay safe!

[Grime]

A note from Charlie today.

Chart 11412
We are NOT ashore. We are actually anchored in 9.5 feet of water about 300 yards off the beach. Had a great broad reach making anywhere from 4.5 to 7 mph in the Gulf today under just the main.