Some thoughts from a Bahamas Trip

[Frank]

I'll 3rd the reefing jib.  ;D    "never leave home without one"  :o

[C-164]

Sorry guys, I got this thread all hijacked from sailing the silver seas to sail trim. While we're on the subject my new jib will have a reef point, the sailmaker liked the idea and jumped right on it. I'm glad I never got a furler, instead I use a downhaul from the cockpit that works great to douse the headsails. I never have to go forward.  I also bought a used drifter that has no hanks which oozes right over the side into the water and under the boat when it comes down with the downhaul. I'm having hanks put on that sail too so it comes down 'tamed'.
My question is; do you all have a fast way to switch the sheets to the new clew? I could use a snap shackle on the jib sheets but it's not recommended.
And while we're on the subject of single handed cruising on a small boat, I don't want to mess with a pole while singlehanding. I've heard there's a method of using the boom swung out with a snatch block on the end for the jib sheet using the boom as a pole, while the mainsail is down of course.  Has anyone tried this for downwind?
Thanks for your experience,
Barry

[CharlieJ]

 there is a quite handy way of attaching jib sheets so they are quickly moveable. I've used it for years. I can't post either a picture OR a link fromthis Iphone bu if you willgo to TSBB and do a search for "now that the archive is working again" you'll find a post from a Charles Brennan with pictures. Ouse the same setup.

[wildman]

there is a quite handy way of attaching jib sheets so they are quickly moveable. I've used it for years. I can't post either a picture OR a link fromthis Iphone bu if you willgo to TSBB and do a search for "now that the archive is working again" you'll find a post from a Charles Brennan with pictures. Ouse the same setup.

Similar to CB's (minus the stopper knot). 

[Auspicious]

My question is; do you all have a fast way to switch the sheets to the new clew?

After many years of racing foredeck I concur with the conventional wisdom of avoiding shackles on sheets.

My method on my reefable staysail is not exactly speedy but does work pretty fast. I use bowlines to attach sheets to the clew. I move the windward sheet to the reef clew and reeve it back to the cockpit on the leeward side, which clearly means for those moments I have two sheets on that side. Then I drop the staysail halyard and move the tack connection to the reef point. Tension the halyard, move the original sheet to the reef clew and move whichever one ends up with less load to the windward side. Back to the cockpit and trim. Takes 5 minutes in really stinky weather (F8 and up), most of which time is spent holding on. *grin*

[CharlieJ]

Onlly thing is- I've found the bowline to be unreliable on jib sheets- they can and do flog loose.

I can switch my sheets from regular clew to reefed clew
in 30 seconds.

[C-164]

thanks guys I saw the pictures and that's what I was looking for. Heard it described in words but in this case a picture is worth a thousand words.

[Auspicious]

Onlly thing is- I've found the bowline to be unreliable on jib sheets- they can and do flog loose.

Interesting. Never has happened to me - and I've tied a lot of bowlines on race boats with the afterguard yelling at me to "hurry up! you're killing us up there!" *grin*

I can switch my sheets from regular clew to reefed clew
in 30 seconds.

Note my 5-minute estimate was for the entire reefing process in stinky weather. I've never timed myself as in those conditions my watch is generally under several layers of clothing and foulies. When it's stinky out it takes however long it takes. Two competent people makes it much easier on the equipment though. It's good to keep the sail trimmed as much as possible except when getting the halyard eased, the new tack connected, and the halyard back up. I really don't like flogging sails - even without shackles I don't want to be clocked by a clew cringle or even just the sail.

[ThistleCap]

No, I've never had problems with bowlines either, and have used them as standard for more decades than I like to count.  I do find this method shown interesting, though, and would like to try it.  HOWEVER, there is one caveat.  Synthetic line is treated (I'm told) with a lubricant to help in the twisting and laying involved in making the line.  Because of its slippery finish, I never trust synthetic line for much of anything until it gets a few months age and loses that finish.  Until then, I always back any knot up with a stop knot.  I learned that lesson the hard way.  I had delivered a boat to St. Thomas and moored it offshore and sat on the beach waiting for the owner, who I had called as soon as I got ashore.  I had cut, spliced in a thimble, and whipped a new nylon mooring pennant on my way into port.  Suddenly, I saw the brand-new Cape Dory sailing itself beam-on for the beach.  I have no doubt my swim to the boat could have challenged Michael Phelps on a good day.  I returned the boat to the mooring and inspected the painter, which was in perfect condition.  It had simply pulled itself through a double round-turn and cleat hitch.  I secured it and put a stop-knot behind the hitch, and had no more trouble, and told the new owner what I'd just learned so he wouldn't share my experience.  I've never had a similar problem with splices, although I use about 7 sets of tucks rather than the recommended 5 for synthetcs.