s/v Fairwinds - Southern Cross 31

[s/v Faith]

The Indian Town marina and boatyard is a really dangerous place.  The folks there are pleasant and helpful, the rates are reasonable, the town has good food, and most of what you may need, and the facilities are much nicer then any boat yard ought to be.  There is a real risk that being 'on the hard' there may not be the abject misery that it is supposed to be.

  We walked the mile or so into town, and rowed back out to install the fuel pump and left there before the lure of the place took hold.  :)

  The small railroad bridge near Indian Town closed as we approached it and we waited for a train to pass.  I bet it was not 4 minutes from the time it closed to when it opened again... sure wish all bridges worked as well;



  It only took a couple hours to get back underway and we locked our way through and made Manatee Pocket that evening.
 
The St. Lucie Lock from the air (thanks Wiki);


We had some rain approaching as we got to St Lucie;


Rain in the Lock;


Handling lines in the rain;

[s/v Faith]

Wednesday we stopped at Ft. Pearce for provisions and (thankfully) were made up to the fuel dock when the daily thunderstorm hit.  NOAA was squawking away as we struggled to fend off the dock.  The wind was impressive, and we later learned that it was blowing 60MPH (IAW NOAA).  We got underway and motored into the rain for a few hours.
 


We motored up the waterway through the afternoon and evening and anchored just outside the channel.

The next day we made Titusville, we hoped to be there for the launch of a private rocket from Cape Canaveral but were underway and too far north when it went up the net day.  It's launch had the barge canal blocked and cancelled our plans to go outside up the coast to St. Augustine.

We had been hit with a strong storm right as we anchored at Titusville, and had been very fortunate so far to dodge the worst of the weather.  Our luck changed as we approached Daytona and we got pelted and struggled to keep the boat in the channel.  Dennis had elected to turn and run down wind as the worst of the weather approached which probably spared us worst of the wind but it was tough to have to earn the miles twice (not really much of a set back).



  St. Augustine was a nice rest stop, we had a nice diner and Yinnie caught a very slow moving squirrel (to the horror of passing tourists).   Neither Dennis nor I had the heart to tell her that her prey was already dead when she came across it... she stalked the motionless squirrel with great enthusiasm.

  Yinne after a hard day killing (dead) squirrels;

[s/v Faith]

As we were entering the anchorage at St. Augustine, we saw a Choy Lee 33 with an interesting paint job sail past.  They waited for an opening of the Bridge of Lions... and then came back through a but later... under sail.

  The boat looked to be well maintained, and had flames painted on the bow.  We saw them leave the next morning, they were underway at first light as I was having coffee in the cockpit.  We saw them again just north of the city.  They were aground and we could see they had an outboard mounted on a bracket on the transom that did not appear to reach the water.  They had enlisted some jet skiers to wake the boat as they tried to drag her off of the shoals by the Halyard with the dingy.   We checked the chart and saw they were in a charted 3' so our 5' draft put us out of the running to help much.  We waved as we passed. 

  We made Fernandina Beach that evening.  We had our last shore call in Florida and after dinner watched as the 'Andromeda' sailed up to the fuel dock at the marina. 

s/v "Andromeda", 33' Choy Lee;


Dennis spoke with the owner who said he had purchased the boat in the Keys. The prior owner had passed away, and he got a good deal on the boat but had a series of problems.  He had spun the bearing on the motor soon after getting underway, so he purchased an older Mercury outboard and mounted it in the bracket.  He nearly lost the boat on the rocks in an inlet Marathon(?) after going aground and being refused a tow by Towboat US.  The SeaTow driver had gotten him underway but charged him dearly for his time.  He was bound for Norfolk, and we saw him all the next day alternately sail and motor up the twisting channels of Southern Georgia.   We later heard he spun his prop in Myrtle Beach SC.  I hope he made it home. 

 

[s/v Faith]

We were out of daylight and short on anchorages.  The shrimp season was opening, and we had no where to hide... Skipper Bob did not list many hopeful sounding options.

We opted to look for a small "shrimper village" off of the Crescent River.

  As we picked our way up the narrow river and over various bars we saw some docks.. but no were to anchor.  As we rounded a bend we saw some people fishing from a boat on a dock.  The people were friendly and recommended we speak to 'Capt. Ben' to find out where to anchor.  Dennis talked as I tried to hover against the current.  We had both thought the shrimpers might be less then receptive to cruisers given the sometimes unpleasant interactions between Sailors and fishermen.

  We could not have been less right.  Capt. Ben Graham was welcoming and not only helped us find a good anchorage but he invited us ashore, told us all about the history of the village he had been raised in, let us use his dock, and even offered to drive us into town the next day. 



It was a long drive, but even after taking us to shop, and get propane he still did not want to take any money for gas.  His answer was 'just pass it along to someone else'.  A truly nice guy and a credit to the tradition of 'watermen'.  May his kindness come back to him many times over.  :)

Fairwinds at anchor off of Crescent river Georgia;


  We got underway and sailed out Sapelo inlet (just north of Brunswick).  We sailed off shore to Charleston.  It started out as a nice sail, but the wind clocked and we wound up with confused seas and fluky winds that degraded to a slapping boom as the main filled and spilled in the light winds.  Neither of us slept and the next mornings arrival in Charleston was a welcome relief.

[s/v Faith]

It is getting rather late, I will post the rest of the trip later.

[Tim]

What a wonderful post, a grog for you, for this first part!

[Bubba the Pirate]

Made me completely jealous. Grog to ya. 

Todd

[marujo_sortudo]

Thanks for the in-depth post and I look forward to the rest, later.  A grog for ya, in the meanwhile...

[s/v Faith]

Thanks for the encouragement guys, I appreciate it.

 So, Wednesday we came back in the inlet at Charleston.  I had not had a great time there last time through, so even though we had sailed all night we both elected to press on for a bit.  We landed Yinnie ashore so she could take care of dog issues, and then sailed up a ways.

 There are several creeks that empty to the ocean just north of Charleston.  We turned down one of them and found lots of no-see-em friendly grass so we decided to head back out.  I made a minor navigational error (screwed up)... and rounded to corner to go back out into the channel.  The keel is an impressive piece of engineering, and caught every bit of the incoming tide... and we had a nice soft landing in the sand.

 The jib sheet was let go, and the motor idled and then backed.  The sand was rather fond of the keel, and wanted to have a longer term relationship with it.  ::)

 So while Dennis took the helm, I jumped in the water.  Now, with my boat I have put a shoulder under the bow and worked her out of mud and sand more times then I might like to admit to.  Imagine my surprise when I tried that with the good ship Fairwinds and she did not budge an inch.  I grunted and groaned and finally was able to perceive that the bow was moving... slightly.  Of course once Dennis backed the boat back into the channel I had to swim against the same current to get back aboard.... he is a pretty nice guy and did not continue on (very far).  ;D

 We found another creek (with slightly less grass, and current) and the rest of the day is a blur.... until Dennis was looking down the hatch the next morning;



So we sailed.  We decided to make Georgetown, I assumed the statute of limitations had expired from the last time I was through there... knowing full well that Our Dear Captain had done little to help my case with his fabrications.

I added some of the posts from the 'creative transportation thread' into this thread since many were updates of our progress... I hope this does not make it too confusing.

Note: don't see this too often;

Warning - while you were typing 17 new replies have been posted. You may wish to review your post.

;D

[s/v Faith]

I wish I had taken more pictures on the section between Charleston and Georgetown.  The rice feilds and their irrigation set up a very strange phenomenon where one can appear to be sailing over water that is sliding 'downhill' on either side.  Very strange rules of gravity seem to apply in that area of the country know as the 'Low country'.

 The Egret feed on the bait fish that pour out through the locks in the irrigation trenches.  These large beautiful birds are nervous.  They never stop moving, and fly upward at random intervals.  As you get closer you see why.  The water is littered with alligators.

 People who claim to know (experts) say alligators do not inhabit salt water.  Well, the dolphins hunting in the midst of the alligators must not have gotten the memo.... all were working the same stretches of water.

 We arrived to Georgetown Landing Marina in the evening, and were told the staff had been warned we were coming and that we were not allowed.  I stalled for time as Kurt rode down the dock with large quantities of frosty beverage.  The doc boys scattered like scared seamen in the presence of a terrible captain (the burning wax in his beard was a nice touch).

 We had a drink, then showered, had a drink, and got some fuel, had a drink and went to look for grub.... could not find much bit Kurt offered the helpful suggestion that we have a drink while it sorted it's self out.   The crew dogs were happy to see me, and asked me to approach their captain about his slacking off so much.  See, the story I got from the dogs was that he says he is going to "work" and they watch him go up to the bar not to be seen for hours.  I am setting up ain intervention soon, and will ask that as many of you here as are available to participate come along.... and of course bring refreshments.   We WILL get to the BOTTOM of all this one way or another.

 Our early morning departure came earlier then morning since there was a fishing tournament we wanted to avoid getting in the way of.  We were a mile from the dock before the sun started to share it's light... but somehow we still got waked badly by most of the boats....  all I can say is that those MUST be SOME VERY fast fish those guys are catching!  ;D


 We motor sailed up to try to make Southport that evening.  It was a nice stretch of water, lots of places to get introduced to the local wildlife;

'

 Also enjoyed some of the tourists who were probably migrating from the oil in the gulf to clog other areas of the country.  THe waterway was quite sporty... jet skis, motor boats, and that was not all.  We actually had minituyre CRUISE SHIPS in the ICW.

 This guy was one of two who proceded to trun sideways in the channel and sit there.  He actually was long enough to block the entire channel, and did not seem to be in any hurry to move.

 We briefly considered setting the hook and going ahsore, but after waiting a bit the Gameshop captain figured out his next move and turned.

 The consolation was the stream of complaining that came from the jet skiers who griped about not being able to pass and distract / disrupt all the boats on the other side of the cruise ship....  ::)



 

[s/v Faith]

Ok, so we departed Georgetown, and had a long slow beautiful motor north through the Georgia low country.

 pictures would not do justice, but if you are a hardcore off shore cowboy you are missing something if you pass this section up.

 Our next stop for the night was in South port NC.  We barely made it in before we drew the attention of the local Coast Guard patrol (they patrol the fuel docks constantly).  We had planned to land in the basin and anchor there (probably in the way of the majority of the boats there)  ::)  As it turned out we decided to get fuel at a dock before ethe town.... strangely there was no service at 10:38 at night, so we waited until morning.  At around 8 we figured there were no fuel sales taking place on that dock, so we went off in search of fuel elsewhere.

 We made our way up through some very familiar territory through Snow's cut, and up the coast to Mile Hammock Bay.

THis was Rose and my favorite anchorage when the new River was our home.  Yinnie enjoyed running around in the woods just like Peter used to.  I had called my friend Vaughn who had invited up to his marina... but thankfully he had to tow another boat out of the approach so he saved up the trouble of trying to find our way in.

 Vaughn was on the dock at Mile Hammock.  He caught our lines, shook hands, and served pizza.  Many lies were told as we chatted and are pizza on the dock.  It was a VERY welcome break from our underway fare.  Funny how your friends just KNOW the simple things that make such a big difference at the end of the day.

 Shortly after Vaughn left, more friends arrived.  Tom and Bernice (just returned from the Bahamas on their Islander 36 'Different Drummer" and  Cruisers Dave and Anita who we had met and become instant friends with 2 years before at Georgetown (Bahamas) They are keeping their Morgan 41 at the marina on the base were Rose and I were for 5 years.  We all had a great conversation, and no one really seemed to notice that neither Dennis nor I were capable of completing a sentence.....   of course that is only out of the ordinary for Dennis.

 Fairwinds made up to the quay wall at Mile Hammock (do not do this if you do not have base access, you could be arrested.)

[s/v Faith]

We woke up the next morning and decided it was our last day underway. 

  We got underway, and headed up to Beaufort.  THe craziness was slightly dulled by the newly imposed 'no wake' zone in the basin, and the majority of the sport boats had already run through headed out to their tournament that morning.

  Adams Creek was filling up with shrimpers, but we had plenty of room to avoid causing them to turn and loose their catch.  I have great respect for these guys and am reminded that we are sailing for pleasure, they are feeding their families.  Funny, with all the strife between shrimpers and Sailors I rarely have an issue with this attitude.



Funny, as a journey comes to a close the things that might not be noticed come all the more clear.  The sound of the water on the hull, the gulls, the snap of the apple you are eating that is the last meal underway on the journey.

  This sky spoke to me;



We made up in the new slip, and got to the tiki bar just in time to be told the kitchen was closed... but the kind waitress agreed to make us sandwiches anyway. (bless this girl).

  Sailors all have their own rituals, and things effect us all differently.  Yinnie is no different.

  Yinnie seemed to become deep and philosophical about Dennis last bite of sandwich the last night of the trip.

[s/v Faith]

The boat is made up, the sails are stowed, the new automatic bilge pump is installed.  Dennis let me take care of a few last repairs that I had asked to do, minor things like a buzzer on the fuel pump when there is no oil pressure.  I was glad to work on the boat a bit more to 'give something back' to this ship that had brought us on this journey.

  I am grateful to have been able to go along and contribute in some way.  Had a great time with a great friend aboard a great little ship.  I look forward to hearing about the future journeys she will make, and time shared in some other anchorages 'out there' soon.

Blessings, on the good ship Fairwinds, and upon her crew!

[CapnK]

{snip}We decided to make Georgetown, I assumed the statute of limitations had expired from the last time I was through there... knowing full well that Our Dear Captain had done little to help my case with his fabrications.

"Fabrications".

FABRICATIONS???

I think not - witness the evidence attached below.

[Tim]

Hmmm! some pretty incriminating evidence I would say. The goat is the obvious clue, as we know perps typically leave calling cards behind  ;)

[s/v Faith]

Ok...

  FIRST.  The jetski guy... he DESERVED much worse.  Many many times worse.  Now, I am not admitting I was there, or that I knew just how many rolls of duct tape were required, but let me just say that WHOEVER did it had one heck of a time getting all the stickiness off of their hands..... which MAY have required a SLIGHTLY longer time in the shower then might have been otherwise necessary.

  SECOND, you can not believe everything you read in the news paper.  If certain events did indeed take place (and I am not saying I have any first had knowledge) then I will say that there may be a slight exaggeration of the details.had

  NOT that I have any first hand knowledge of ANY of this mind you.....  ::)

   

[Tim]

Of Course not at all saying I think you were there, I am just glad SailFar members were not asked to take a collection to make bail. Glad you had a great sail.

[s/v Faith]

I'll be in Oriental thursday night till mondayand I hope to meet up, please let me know when they get there?

Mario,

  Sorry I missed this until now... sorry I missed you. 

[s/v Faith]

Brought Fairwinds back down south a couple weeks ago.  Details of the route are posted here in the thread on the 2013 southern migration.