Rebedding Bristol 24 windows/frames

[dannyjoh]

I am planning to re-bed the windows on my Bristol 24 in the near future, hopefully during Christmas break, and would appreciate any tips.

Bristol 24 has three windows (portlights) on each side.  One in the v-berth and two in the main cabin.  On my boat, each of the windows has aluminum frames both inside and outside of the window. 

The v-berth window frames have screw heads (or bolt heads) on the outside and acorn nuts inside.  I guess that the bolts and nuts hold together the inside frame, the window and the outside frame.  The cabin window frames have screw heads on the inside but no nuts outside.  I am not sure how the cabin window frames are held together.

Has anyone re-bedded Bristol 24 windows or similar windows?  Can I just take them apart, clean the pieces and put them back together with a layer of 5200/4200?  Or are there parts (e.g. seals or gaskets?) that need to be replaced?

[Captain Smollett]

I think most guys are going with butyl tape for portlights.  That's what I am using.

[JWalker]

byutal tape will last a long time....but ive used 4200 and had no problems.

capt smollet, do you tighten down the the byutal ine one shot....or snug it up a bit at a time?

i would not use 5200 unless imediatly giving the boat to someone i dont like.

to get the portlights out just take the screws out and then the inner metal piece should come off. then gently press the portlight out....hopefully all of your sealent has failed and they will come out easily. ive had to resort to prying one out. the through bolted ones are probly similar...but i have no direct experience.

also....do one at a time....there is nothing worse than getting 6 holes in your boat and then runnin out of time....be it sundown or weather or fustration!

good luck.

[Captain Smollett]

byutal tape will last a long time....but ive used 4200 and had no problems.

capt smollet, do you tighten down the the byutal ine one shot....or snug it up a bit at a time?

I'm in the tighten in one shot camp...

also....do one at a time....there is nothing worse than getting 6 holes in your boat and then runnin out of time....be it sundown or weather or fustration!

good luck.

Excellent point...grog to you!

Boy, BIG ditto on that...we took two of ours apart and found significant delamination up to about 8 inches away from the cut-out....MAJOR repair, and I did not have all the stuff there to fix it.  Started out a simple "we'll just rebed the portlights," ended up being major glasswork.

Small, do-able bites...applies to boat repairs in general, I find.

[CharlieJ]

I founnd a tube of Butyl Rubber caulk for a caulking gun atACE. Been using that for a while now. Be careful - it's messy ;D

[okawbow]

The larger ports have the screws on the inside frames, and threaded studs on the outside frames. Mine came apart easily after 30 years. The cut outs in the cabin sides were a little irregular, so I used 3m 4200 on the frame to fiberglass surfaces and 3m silicone on the frame to plastic joints. Mine don't leak, but if yours have a good fit, butyl would be better.

Find a good screw driver that fits the screw heads perfectly for best results.

[JWalker]

charlie...was that black or grey?

i bet it was black....that stuff is MESSY.

used to use it on windows....never hardens...stays sticky....stays messy!


doesnt leak though.

grey tape is what i think is best....that is until i find something else.........


capt smollet....ive heard some say to tighten in rounds to let the bytal form....others say clap it and go.

no problems with clap it and go?

[dannyjoh]

Thanks, everyone, for feedback.  I will try butyl tape.  Good point, JWalker,  one window at a time.  I will keep that in mind.
dj

[Oldrig]

I picked up some terrific butyl tape from this source. It's far better than the stuff you can get at the RV store, and is actually made for marine uses, I think. It's also cheap.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

And, no, I don't have any business ties to the seller--who knows his stuff when it comes to marine repairs.

--Joe

[CharlieJ]

My stuff is either white or a very, very pale grey. Still messy but good stuff.

[Bubba the Pirate]

For what its worth, I had a circumnavigator tell me that butyl tape will leak for sure offshore.  Following his advice, I DID use 5200.  I was installing brand new New Found Metal ports which will be fine for a long time. 

I'll let you know in a couple years. 

[JWalker]

hmmm charlie is using different stuff than i was thinking.

sailor bum...let me know....i still have concerns about getting 5200 off.

i like taking stuff apart ya know......

[Captain Smollett]

For what its worth, I had a circumnavigator tell me that butyl tape will leak for sure offshore.  Following his advice, I DID use 5200.  I was installing brand new New Found Metal ports which will be fine for a long time.  

I'll let you know in a couple years.  

Mind saying which circumnavigator said that? Because a LOT of guys are using it and this is the first I've heard a blanket statement that it leaks "offshore."

ANY bedding/caulk will leak if improperly applied.  Shoot, silicon does nothing BUT leak (at least that applied to MY boat has), and still people recommend its use.

I'm just thinking that if ONE person had a bad experience...could that be because they did not apply it right?  If it's such an absolute, where are all the others who have been using it reporting that their portlights have leaked?

I'd really like to know, since this is the bedding material I've chosen.  

On Edit:

Also, I'd think 5200 for portlights is WAY overkill...assuming there are any mechanical fasteners and you are not talking about literally gluing your windows in place.  Even 4200 is recommended for use below the waterline, and the biggie difference is 5200 is adhesive in addition to sealant...

So, with screws or bolts, what's the need for 5200 on an above the waterline application where taking something apart is definitely an advantage?

[Bubba the Pirate]

The circumnavigator is an individual who went around in the 80/90's.  He is neither famous nor infamous.  He works as a CG licensed captain now.  I won't toss a name without checking with him first.

As for the 5200, I don't plan on taking them apart again and they won't leak!  I like the ring of adhesive that will hold in addition to sealing in extreme circumstances. 
 

Todd

[Captain Smollett]

I won't toss a name without checking with him first.

Oh, no, that's okay...the question was really more rhetorical unless he is someone "well known" that already has an 'Net presence for giving advice on such topics as getting a boat ready for offshore.

Bedding choices are to some degree personal preference.  I know one circumnavigator (full time cruiser since early 1990's) that happens to presently live in town who advises folks to pretty much NEVER use 5200....with certain very specific exceptions.

Interesting, no? 

[Bubba the Pirate]

If I knew how to spell tomatto, I'd say tomato, tomatto, but none of that translates to text very well.  I threw it in just to throw it in.  My 5200 installation won't be sea tested for another 18-24 months.  I'll report then.  :o)

[dannyjoh]

I spent a couple of days re-bedding the window frames with butyl tape. The tape was easy to work with. 


Cabin window frame taken apart. The frames are held together by 12 machine screws.  The outside frame has threaded holes accepting the screws.



Butyl tape is being placed on the outside frame after scrubbing the old gunk (mostly green-looking soft clay). 



Removing the backing peel of the butyl tape.



Outside frame and the plexiglass(?) held together in place.  I used making tape to hold the parts together.  The adhesiveness of butyl tape alone would have been strong enough to hold the pieces together while I was working the inside frame and screws.



Newly-bedded window. 

I haven't tested the windows for leak yet....