Stainless Rigging Wire 302/304 vs 316

[Cruiser2B]

I am about to replace my standing rigging i will use sta-lok fittings. is there a need to use 316 for the wire? I understand it is less corrosion resistant than 302/304 but it is also weaker. My Alberg rigging is 41yrs old, hence the replacement, I am assuming they used 304 back then but not too sure so i am asking here, what have you used and what was your reasoning for choosing it. i dont mind spending the money if it is necessary Thank you

[Captain Smollett]

I would not use anything less than 316 stainless on board..especially "outside" and exposed to salt water.

YMMV, but why risk it for the rigging?

[Cruiser2B]

Thank you, i meant to say that 316 was more corrossion resistant..my mistake. I appreciate the input. I dont mind spending the extra money on 316 but if it is not completely necessary why waste money. I am absolutely not risking anything, hence the reason for my research before buying. there are alot of myths in the boating industry about what is needed. I said I did not mind spending the money if it IS necessary. After looking further into it last night I think I will use rigging only in MA, they seem to have very fair pricing and everything I will need. thanks again

[Captain Smollett]

I dont mind spending the extra money on 316 but if it is not completely necessary why waste money. I am absolutely not risking anything, hence the reason for my research before buying. there are alot of myths in the boating industry about what is needed.

Absolutely lots of myths...it's part of the reason for this site.

Okay, so we need to define "needed."  This is, I believe, an interesting topic.  I see people all the time using "non-marine" stuff on their boats in applications that *I* certainly would use 'the better stuff.'

To me, it boils down to two things: margin of safety and viewing everything on the boat as an interlocking 'system.'

We build margin of safety into the boat in many ways, but recognize that it is not any ONE thing...or even small set of things...that ultimately lead to the 'strength' of the boat.  There are a thousand little things that add up, and a few percent of added reliability here synergistically aids the reliability over there.

Which leads to the second point...it's all interlocking...a good strong hull is nothing if the hull-to-deck joint fails.  The strongest backstay is useless if the shrouds fail.  A good anchor does no good at all if the rode connecting it to the boat is junk.

Finally...is 316 SS NEEDED for standing rigging?  Maybe not, depending on the use profile of the boat and how willing you are to accept failure.   I'm just saying that the question I ask myself is "why don't you see 304 SS in wire rigging on sail boats?"  Some of these lessons have been learned the hard way.  But I believe there's a darn good reason, lessons learned by many others who have gone before me, that 316 SS is the minimum grade for wire rigging.  It's not all marketing. 

So, for MY boat when it is MY choice - yes, it's needed.  Your boat, your choices.

Incidentally, I faced pretty much the exact same dilemma when I saw the price of G10 Garolite versus making plywood backing plates.  I've used resin coated plywood backing plates in the past, and have had good success with them.  But, this go-around, I just decided the time had come to get the absolute best I could afford...

At the end of the day, it just becomes personal choice what compromises we make...

[CharlieJ]

And just to drop another note in here, not that I really recommend it-

BUT -

Many boats (including my 35 foot trimaran) have sailed many many thousands of miles using galvanized wire rigging. Just as strong, if not stronger than stainless. Just has to be replaced much more often.

Why did I use it on the tri? I was given free enough to rig the boat three complete times, and had all the tools aboard to do so, anywhere in the world.

Turned out I didn't need to, since I never got out of US waters, sad to say.

Of course, Tehani is rigged with 316 and StaLocs ;D

[Captain Smollett]

Charlie, would you say that in addition to actual replacement more often, you must inspect it more often as well?

I'm talking about shifting more from the 'expense' column to the 'routine maintenance labor' column in the old proverbial balance sheet.

Is that a fair way to look at it?

[CharlieJ]

Absolutely you need to inspect it frequently. But I figured a five year life span (safely) and carried a 15 year supply.

I also understand that in the tropics stainless doesn't last but about five years either.

One big plus for Galvanized 1x7 is that you can hand splice eyes.
Again, I'll use 316 now.

[marujo_sortudo]

It depends.  I'd recommend asking this question on Brion Toss's Spartalk forum regarding current manufacturers and availability in the sizes you need.  Not all wire ropes are created equal, even when of the same nominal alloy.  There are some very good 302 formulations out there.  Your planned cruising grounds, i.e., temperate vs. tropical will effect wire selection.  Galvanized wire and spliced terminals are often underrated, but so are other techniques.  I'd recommend reading Toss's Rigger's Apprentice and some less conventional rigging ideas as well.  Stainless is nice because it's pretty, low maintenance, and ubiquitous.  Unfortunately, it becomes brittle with age, corrodes sneakily, and gives little advance sign of failure.  That said, if used carefully, it often gives good service for a long time (8 years in the tropics is a recommend replacement interval, used by riggers, obviously YYMV.) Of course, served galvanized will be the cheapest over time if you maintain it well and assume your own labor rate is zero ;). Know your rigging's limits well, whatever they be.