Yanmar YSM 8

[Grime]

In my Watkins 27 I have a Yanmar YSM 8. Due to my in experience and lack of reliable advice I have a bad engine along with transmission. 

I said somewhere not long ago I would search for different peoples advice and make a better decision on which way to go.

With help I can do the work and rebuild the engine. Parts around 600. Transmission to a shop cost to rebuild unknown.

Summer wasted boat not useable.

Buy a 9.9 outboard. Already have motor mount on stern. Change over from tiller to remote. Cost used $1800.

Would get some summer useage.

What would you do?  Little to no return on boat if sold after fixed.

[Travelnik]

Personally, I would (will) go with the outboard. For me, it is easier to maintain and repair if needed.
There are also plenty of repair shops that do outboard repair for much less than diesel repairs if I needed to take it in. (The outboard is also easier to transport to a shop.)

[okawbow]

I really like the YSE8 on my Bristol 24. I recently started it after 2 years, and it fired right up. I even started it with the handcrank.

My only problem with the engine was the head gasket. I replaced it myself at the dock, for under $50.00 in parts. Since then, the engine starts and runs great. I ran it up to 12 hours a day on a trip down the Tenn-Tom. I got an average of 30 miles per gallon at 4-5 knots boat speed.

I would fix the motor and trans, and use it. But, then I absolutely hate gasoline outboards.

[Grime]

If the transmission was good I'd rebuild the motor.  If the Yanmar dealer had an idea of cost to rebuild it would give me something to work on.

[Cyric30]

Pardon my Ignorance here please
Grime or anyone i guess, what kind of transmission do you have? i know nothing about them, so i guess i should read up on the subject some.

[Jim_ME]

David, did you see this motor in the Houston CL classifieds?
Seems like it may be a possible option for a repower...

https://houston.craigslist.org/boa/4589019597.html

Yanmar Diesel for Sailboat - $1000 (Kemah)
Model YSB12
Single cylinder raw water cooled engine
12 HP
Runs great.
New starter, new alternator, new exhaust manifold
And another YSB12 for parts.
Part motor does not fun, but vital parts and transmission are good.
Txt me on 832-461-[see contact info in ad]

[Grime]

Thanks for the info. He priced the motor to me yesterday and was to get back to me today. Haven't heard from him. Got mine ready to pull just need some help to get her done.

[Grime]

Pardon my Ignorance here please
Grime or anyone i guess, what kind of transmission do you have? i know nothing about them, so i guess i should read up on the subject some.

Joe there are so many different transmission I couldn't tell you much. Mine is just forward, neutral and reverse as all of them are. Mine works off pressure on the clutch. About all I know. The Yanmar dealer couldn't even tell me which transmission I have.

[Grime]

Text the guy last night. He said he would get back to me. If I don't hear from him today I'll write it off and buy an outboard. Put remote control on it. At least I've got something I could sale.

Got a friend from Rockport coming up later in the week to help me pull the engine. I'll just put it in storage.

Maybe I shouldn't start a thread about the mast and its roller system that junk. 

[seiniku]

It could be worth pulling the engine and transmission and tearing them apart. They aren't incredibly complicated as long as you're mechanically-inclined. I dug up a few manuals for the YS*8 series and used them to rebuild my YSB8's transmission over the winter. It was surprisingly easy to do, actually.

I'd favor repairing the inboard, as they are quite reliable and are very efficient.

The transmissions are just two friction plates and a bit of steel to press against.

[Grime]

No answer from the guy with the 12. Mine is coming out end of week. I'll waste another winter rebuilding mine. 

The wife doesn't want to go any place on her so she'll go up for sale come spring. To much unhappiness and a dream shot.

[Jim_ME]

...Buy a 9.9 outboard. Already have motor mount on stern. Change over from tiller to remote. Cost used $1800.
Would get some summer useage.

David, since you already have the outboard bracket, would encourage you to consider picking up a used outboard (even with just a tiller, if that will work, though not ideal) as an interim motor so that you can use the boat on daysails/short cruises while you are doing the motor/transmission rebuild (or looking for a replacement inboard motor). For example, there is an extra-long-shaft Johnson 9.9 hp (w tiller) "runs good" for sale here locally for $250. At that price, you are likely to be able to resell and recover your investment, once the inboard & trans are rebuilt.

[Grime]

I agree with hanging an outboard motor on the stern and use the boat. Two thing. One I've had two Johnson and never could keep them running. Second is the amount of free board I have. Its a long way down once the motor is in the water.  I've got a 5hp for the dinghy that I used to back us out of the slip with me hanging on the stern ladder just to get it started.  Not something I really care to do.

We're headed to Rockport today to get a price on all the parts for the engine. I found a number on the trans and hope they can give me a price on the overhaul.  After that I'll decide if I'll go with the overhaul or remote controlled outboard.

[Captain Smollett]

Two thing. One I've had two Johnson and never could keep them running.

By far the most common problems with outboard engines...if they run at all, of course...the most common problem "keeping them running," is bad fuel.

On sail boats, we simply do not use the fuel fast enough, and outboards are far, far more picky about fuel needs than a lawn mower.

It takes a little bit of work and some conscious effort to maintain 'good fuel' for an outboard on a sail boat.  Keep in mind, every Johnson shop manual I have read has said fuel should be less than ONE MONTH old.

Ethanol in fuel does not help; it hurts.  It can hurt a lot.

Also, with the price of fuel, we are all tempted to buy cheap, low octane fuel.  Outboards do not like low octane fuels...or at least the Johnsons I have don't. 

I solve both problems with one swoop. Here, I can get mid-grade gasoline that is ethanol free.  No EtOH and at least mid Octane.

If they are mechanically sound (no cracked head or any such big problems), they are incredibly durable...remarkably durable feats of engineering.  But they need good fuel and that's where most of us either get lazy or simply make mistakes.

Not saying that's you...just throwing it out as a general comment.

Second is the amount of free board I have. Its a long way down once the motor is in the water.  I've got a 5hp for the dinghy that I used to back us out of the slip with me hanging on the stern ladder just to get it started.  Not something I really care to do.

It sounds like your dinghy engine is a standard shaft length or may even be a short shaft.  My little 18 ft trailer sailer has a long shaft outboard, and the Alberg 30 has a Extra Long Shaft 8 HP Johnson on it.  The shaft length alone is 25 inches, which is a lot of reach.

Tool for the job...

How much freeboard do you actually have at the stern?  More than an A-30?

[Frank]

A local 25fter I bought in 1984 and sold in 89 still has the same 9.9 Johnson "sailmaster" on it and runs great! The "sailmaster" had a 25in shaft, push button electric start and an alternator. 30yrs...same motor!!   I agree on the fuel issue. while ALL outboards need good fuel....2 stroke really need it. ethanol is evil!!!!!

[Grime]

I've been aware of fuel issues for a very long time. Both Johnson motors 7.5hp had new fuel, carbs cleaned etc. Just don't trust the motors.  Some people don't like Ford and some wouldn't own anything else. Unless you are a offshore sailor which I'm not and you want to go somewhere you motor. 10 days on the ICW from here to NOLA min. Your gas is always fresh. I put over 1000 miles on a Tohatsu 6 sail pro 25" shaft never a problem.

My outboard has a 20" shaft. It was purchased to do two jobs. One on the dinghy when the trolling motor is not large enough or battery not charged. Second as a back up just in case something with the yanmar went south.


From the top of my combing(I think that's what you call it) at the stern is 42 1/2" to the water.  Adding a motor with a 25" shaft would raise the stretch to what 37". Still a long way down bending over the stern or on the ladder.  That is why I said it would have to be converted to remote control. 

I don't know what the free board on a Alberg 30 is. We have a couple Albergs here in the marina and they don't look like they have the free board that I do.

[CharlieJ]

Knowing his boat Smollet, it would be a ROYAL pain in the A** to do it without a remote and electric start.  And quite possibly dangerous

[Captain Smollett]

Knowing his boat Smollet, it would be a ROYAL pain in the A** to do it without a remote and electric start.  And quite possibly dangerous

That's cool; I'm certainly not familiar with the model.  Just bouncing some stuff out there as "food for thought."  Don't have enough details on either 'issue' to offer much in the way of specifics.

[Jim_ME]

Yep, the Watkins 27 has a fairly tall transom, and the cockpit extends aft to the transom and the combing wraps around and adds more height.

I did just find this Watkins 27 listing photo on...
http://sailingtexas.com/201301/swatkins27106.html
which shows this area, and a Honda 9 hp (from the ad) which has a tiller, as you can see it is pointed upward [and with an extension] to be accessible. I assume that it is a 25" extra-long-shaft, and that it has electric start, since the access to a manual pull start looks like it would be poor. [also assume that the bracket is in the raised position while the boat is berthed, and the tiller extension need would be more apparent if the motor was shown in the lowered position.]

(Also posting a second photo from another Watkins 27 showing the whole transom area)   

[Captain Smollett]

Thanks for the picture, Jim.  That is very helpful.

So, the wrap around coaming is really the culprit here.  Looks like the hull itself is not atypically tall (or by much).

That outboard position does not look a lot different than the one on my A-30.  The tiller points "up," and the top of the power head is roughly deck level.

But, at the end of the day, his boat, so it needs to fit his criteria.  I just commented because it sounded like he was trying to use a standard or short shaft dinghy engine that would compound the problem.

My outboard has a 20" shaft. It was purchased to do two jobs. One on the dinghy

Might consider a 25" shaft, then.  It would help.  There MAY be a shaft extension kit you can get for your existing engine.  I've seen those referenced in the Johnson manuals.

Also, just another thought...outboards rarely do two things well at all, especially when those two things are as vastly different as propelling a dinghy and pushing the mother boat.  That's just simply the kind of compromise that quite often causes more problems than it solves.

But again, your mileage may vary.