New boat - Allegro 27

[SeaHusky]

Every cruiser needs some sort of dingy and as I am also an avid sea kayaker I thought I would try something a bit different so today I bought this.
It is a kayak that splits in half and although they do not nest, the pieces should fit comfortably in the V-berth when necessary.
As long as I am alone it will carry me and some load and beats pumping an inflatable every time and then trying to row in a strong wind.
It will also be a nice way to explore the nooks and crannies of the foreign shores I hope to visit.
Should heck freeze over and I was to find some company to sail with there is also a midsection that can be added making it a tandem or any number of seats you wish. 





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-ZWA0-U-ao

[SeaHusky]

Like a glove!




Having a bad through hull means you really need a dependable bilge pump.
Unfortunately while I was cleaning out the bilge the bilge pump also sprung a leak...

[Godot]

The bilge pump leaking is not cool. :(

The kayak looks awesome. I considered a kayak for awhile; but I couldn't figure out a way to get in and out from the mother ship without going swimming!

[SeaHusky]

During this winter I am going through the different systems on this old boat and upgrading or replacing them as needed.
It turns out that a lot of things that I thought were OK actually need replacing or fixing. More work, time and money then predicted but this gives me the opportunity to make it to my liking, or at least to what I think I will like.
Not much to show yet but the engine panel was originally set up for an Albin petrol engine and later patched up to fit a standard Lombardini panel which was starting to look rather worn.




This will make the cockpit look a bit nicer.

[ralay]

Ooooo shiny.

[fidra88]

Hallo, this is Klaus,
I have seen you bought a very nice boat. I have got a storefidra and is very similar to yours. I did a big restoration. By boat has had osmosis. Did you look for that? What kind of kajak did you buy. It is nice as a dingy. It is fast, strong and you need no motor.

Best regards

Klaus

[SeaHusky]

Hello Klaus and welcome!
Yes, the Storfidra is very similar and I understand a great boat.
I have heard that the Fisks?tra shipyard did not have a heated rooms for manufacture and therefore the humidity during the laying up of the hulls has made them prone to osmosis. Have you fixed yours?
I have started a rather complete restoration on most of the on board systems, through hulls, hoses, batteries and electrics, water and plumbing and will continue with insulation etc. when I get the necessary stuff done.
One of the good things with my boat is that ten years ago the previous owner epoxied the hull below the waterline and repainted it above so I have no risk of osmosis.
The kayak is a Point 65 "Martini" which is more of a play toy than a real kayak but I hope it will do well as a dingy between boat and shore.
Do write a little about yourself in the "Introductions" thread!

[SeaHusky]

I guess you are familiar with the process.
I needed to replace all through hulls and hoses. I also needed a new bilgepump with hoses and outlet.
Then I wanted to move the batteries to a diffrent location to make room for a better fueltank.
When you alter the interior you want to replace the old carpet used as lining and then you want to remove all the old glue before painting or adding a new insulated liner. When you do that you find that the bulkheads are not properly attached to the hull and also some spots where you may have water coming through holes for wiring and you realize that most of the wiring needs replacing anyway.
Eventually you reach the obvious conclusion to put off sailing for this year and do it all right once and for all!

Note the longitudinal stringers and how the chain plates are attached to the hull. The hull itself is 6mm thick at its thinest and 8mm for the most part. You can also See the row of bolts where the cabin top is bolted onto the hull. She is built like a tank!

[CharlieJ]

Rofl.

You are preaching to the choir. But it's all worth it

After many miles of cruising  ;D  ;D

[matt195583]

Crikey mate. If your going to dive in, you may as well dive in the deep end!
Did you take templates from the old fittout or are you changing things up a bit?

[SeaHusky]

Crikey mate. If your going to dive in, you may as well dive in the deep end!
Did you take templates from the old fittout or are you changing things up a bit?

A few of the bulkheads around the cockpit lockers and engine were so full of holes and cutouts that it was easier to replace them then to patch them up, which is what started the whole deconstruction process. That and the fact that all were incorrectly attached to the hull.
Most of the other bulkheads will be reused as is or slightly modified after sanding down, epoxied and either varnished or painted depending on their placement.

[CapnK]

Wow, what a nicely constructed hull!!!  8) ;D Your level of interior finish closely resembles that of Katie Marie at the present time. I think we have the same decorator.  ;)

[SeaHusky]

As was common in the seventies, my hull was built by a shipyard and the interior was then built by the owner according to detailed instructions.
Quality and workmanship varies depending on the skill of the owner.
The beam below the mast step cracked early on and was then reinforced with an iron "L-beam".

The cracked beam


It is not hard to understand why it fractured. Plywood with equally thick layers has 50% of the fibres oriented in each direction.
Stand it on end and only half of the fibres will take the load at a right angle. The other half will not have much strength.
Using plywood with more fibres in one direction than the other is an improvement if you orient it the right way.
Turn it the wrong way and there is no strength at all... 


The iron beam was rusted but as my original intention was to get her seaworthy an sail her this season I cleaned and painted it in order to use it for the time being but as i now am doing a complete refit I will also replace it with a new wooden beam.

A long time ago, when some of the moderators were young, ships were built of wood and a surveyor would go through the oak stands looking at the trees. Depending on their curves and angles he would decide what part each tree or branch was suitable for or "wanted to be".
In an attempt to pick up this tradition I have felled and cut an oak that "wants to be" a new mast support beam.
What dimensions do you think I need to cut it to? Will 2"x2" be enough or should I add an inch on the height?
It is supported by a post on either side of the companionway.
My aim is to use the arc to increase headroom and keep it an equal thickness all the way and not taper like the original.

[SeaHusky]

The last item left in the hull was the engine so with the help of some "technically fluent friends" we lifted it out of the boat and have taken it to a friends workshop. During the winter and under his guidance I will do a complete overhaul in order to get to know even this part of my boat.

[Godot]

Looking good!



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Jim_ME]

Looking at your boat's hull in the background, noticed that the propeller aperture/void is located entirely within the hull, allowing the attached rudder and its post to be continuous. Must be a strong design.

[SeaHusky]

Looking at your boat's hull in the background, noticed that the propeller aperture/void is located entirely within the hull, allowing the attached rudder and its post to be continuous. Must be a strong design.

The whole boat is said to be one of the strongest designs. I don't know if there is a continuous post through the whole length of the rudder but the absence of a cutout in the rudder for the propeller is said to make the rudder much more efficient compared to similar designs.

[SeaHusky]

An update on my progress:

Earlier in this thread you can see what I started out with. Realizing that this was going to become a complete refit I took her home.


As I had to sand away all the old glue residue from the lining I went all the way and removed all the topcoat from the interior.
This revealed some previously hidden flaws to attend. I also cut away some of the interior fiberglass lining
which had no apparent function but came in good use later on.

[SeaHusky]

The foredeck had a water inlet and a ventilator as well as the boltholes for mounting the pulpit and the main pollard.


Where the pulpit is mounted the foam core of the deck is replaced with plywood.
The fore ones were dry but the aft ones, where the wires for the lanterns go through, were soaked.
I removed all the plywood, filled the void with thickened epoxy and glassed over(under) it.


The foredeck will, apart from the pulpit and main pollard, have a windlass and a hatch for the chain locker.
I felt that trying to glass it from underneath to get it all strong enough was above my current ability so I used the part of the interior lining I had previously removed and glued and screwed it to the underside of the deck. I could then fill up the holes from above with core material and glass it over.


You can also see the sharp angle at the front of the hull which I have filled in with thickened epoxy and glassed over.
At this point it is only one layer of glass but I plan to add a number of layers making the whole front in effect a triangular beam from the top,
all the way down to where the exterior cast iron keel begins. This I think will give me an advantage if I have a head on collision with something.

[SeaHusky]

I cut down a naturally curved oak tree...


..and shaped it into a mast support beam with the grain following the curve for maximum strength.


The mast support bulkhead and beam in place supported on both sides by solid mahogany posts.


The aft bulkhead was so full of holes and cutouts that I discarded it and made a new one from half inch plywood.
All bulkheads are attached to the hull with a fillet with a 40mm radius and two layers of fibreglass on both sides to ensure a good load distribution.