Snapdragon 26

[Travelnik]

Nice gate valves, there...

???   ;D

A lot of old British boats had gate valves. My Nomad does, and they are definitely something I want to get rid of!

I'm planning to remove them, block the existing scuppers, and make some larger cockpit drains through the transom. Then there will be 2 less holes in the bottom of the boat.

[Jim_ME]

My Dutch-built Contest 30 had its original bronze 1.5" gate valves and through hulls at the cockpit scupper drains. They were located within easy reach of the main cabin. Other than taking more time to operate and not being able to tell at a glance whether they are open or closed (as you can from the handle position on sea cocks/ball valves), I never had a problem with them. The subsequent owner cut them off and told me that they were in good condition despite being 20+ years old, and seemed to regret not investing the time/effort/expense on other higher priorities. However both he and I were using the boat for coastal cruising, not long-distance voyaging, so this influenced our thinking and priorities.

The Westerly Centaur 26 cockpit is sloped to aft scuppers, away from the gasketed motor/transmission/stuffing box access panel at the forward end of the cockpit. From these scuppers 1.5" hose is run forward the length of the cockpit to valves/through-hulls just inside the motor compartment, I assume to be reachable from the cabin. this results in quite long runs of hoses and elbow fittings both aft and forward, with several connections.

I do wonder why they did not just run the drains from the aft cockpit area directly out to the transom with much shorter runs, and if above the waterline, with no valves needed. Maybe the designer/builder thought that in a following sea some water would find its way up the drain lines/hoses to the cockpit? The Centaur 26s all had inboard motors and no outboard well option.

[Jim_ME]

One other option alternative to installing an inboard, converting an inboard version of the boat to an outboard (either with transom outboard bracket or constructing an ob motor well), and selling the inboard-setup version SD26 and getting another boat with an existing inboard diesel in good condition, would be to sell your inboard version SD26 and get an SD26 outboard version (that already has a well).

Most of the Sd26s that I have seen were the outboard well versions, so finding one of those may be easier than the reverse.

I just happened to browse the EBay sailboat listings and saw an inboard version that is currently for sale. (see photo of main page/photo below). $7500 seems like quite a bit, but the boat appears to be in good shape and comes with what appears to be a great tandem-axle trailer with interesting guides and hull-support bunks (see ad photos). (and the ad has a "make offer" option. I believe that this is the same Jake that is a SailFar member and may have posted previously in this thread. The ad gives the boat location as Green Cove Springs, Florida.

[Jim_ME]

Close- you remember well  :D
...Here's a pic of the inside showing how they route, and one showing the lay up I did when I made them

Thanks, Charlie, I had not heard of anyone laying up their own fiberglass pipe like that. Resourceful guy.  :)

[CharlieJ]

I used a PVC electrical 90 as a mold wrapped in plastic , laid up one wrap of tape,, epoxied that, then when it cured, split it open, removed the PVC and then laid the rest up over that.

[Jim_ME]

...laid up one wrap of tape,, epoxied that, then when it cured, split it open, removed the PVC and then laid the rest up over that.

A creative technique, Charlie.  :)

[Ghostyman]

Thanks for all the info, but the owner before me tried putting in an o/b and totally botched the job, used glass over plywood and actually cut the transom and re-configured it. If I have to rebuild it, I would rather try to make it as original as possible. I would like to know where the batteries were located though. Thanks for any help!