Tips on single/shorthanded sailing

[wild one]

O.K. I'm sure this is covered in the forum but I would like to know what works for you when alone or with 2 people when you are sailing. You know things like............ do lazy jacks-auto pilots and different sail rigging-steering methods work well for you. What ever you have for the topic that make it easier and safer. Thank.....Tracy

[AdriftAtSea]

Tracy-

When cruising with just two people, you'll often be singlehanding the boat effectively for a majority of the time.  It is very important that both people be able to handle the boat singlehanded.

Things that will make life easier cruising/sailing single handed.

A good autopilot and/or windvane. Wind vanes don't work under power or in very light winds very well, but don't consume any electricity.  Autopilots work well in light air or while powering, but generally not so well in heavier conditions, and eat electricity.

Lazy jacks or some other mainsail handling system.  They make it easier to reef and furl the main sail.

Slab or Jiffy Reefing for the Mainsail. I like slab or jiffy reefing.  It's simple, and relatively fool proof.  If you're leading lines aft, you'll probably want to use a two-line reefing system with separate lines for the tack and clew reefing cringles.  While this requires a bit more hardware, it allows you far better control over the reefed sail shape. If you get good at slab/jiffy reefing, you can often get a reef tucked in in under two minutes. Pre-marking the mainsail halyard for the reef points is an awfully good idea, and makes it go much faster. 

Good ground tackle.  If you're cruising, good ground tackle makes a big difference.  You'll spend less time raising and lowering the anchor with good ground tackle, since it will often set faster and better than the inferior stuff.  At least a boat-length of chain and the rest nylon rode, unless you're in coral heavy waters...then all chain would be preferable.  The next generation anchors, like the Rocna, Bulwagga, Spade, Manson Supreme, Buegel, are significantly better than the older designs IMHO, and well worth getting.  A good manual windlass never hurts either.  BTW, I use a 15 kg Rocna as the primary anchor on my boat.  I have a 22 lb. Delta as a backup and a 12 lb. Danforth as a stern anchor.

Leading the halyards aft.  Some people don't like this, others like it... mainly, it is personal preference.  However, being able to raise, lower or reef the mainsail from the cockpit isn't a bad thing if the boat has narrow side decks and going forward is less than secure.   It is one of the projects on my spring to do list this year.

A boom brake.  A Boom Brake or something similar is a good safety device and helps prevent serious injuries from the boom in the case of an accidental gybe.  There are three major players in the boom brake market:  the Dutchman Boom Brake, the Scott Boom Lock and the Wichard Gyb' Easy.   Of the three, the Wichard is the newest, the least expensive, and the least adjustable.  The other two are pretty comparable in terms of adjustability, but the Dutchman is far less expensive, since the dollar sucks right now. :)  I have the Dutchman on my boat.

Line controlled mainsheet traveler and genoa fairlead cars. This is really a matter of convenience.  I've just upgraded the genoa cars on my boat. :)  Still working on a design for the mainsheet traveler.

Roller Furling headsail.   While some purists will say that hanked on sails are more reliable, modern headsail furling systems have proven themselves.  They're awfully convenient.

Tethers, harnesses and padeyes. These are a necessity if you're single handing.  You have to stay on the boat.  The tethers should have a snap shackle at the body end for emergency release, and a dual-action hook at the boat end, like a Wichard or Gibb safety hook. I prefer the two-leg tethers, which have a 1-meter and  a 2-meter leg, with the shock cord run through the tether so they retract when you're not hooked up. 

Jacklines—required for the tethers and harnesses The best jacklines I've seen are 5/16" spectra line with nylon or dacron webbing over them.  The webbing protects the line from chafe and UV damage and also helps prevent it from rolling underfoot.  Where and how you attach the padeyes and jacklines is really dependent on your boat.  Making clipping in a requirement when alone on deck, or when going forward at night or in heavier winds is a really good idea.  Some people like to make the jacklines end a tether length forward of the stern, so you can be dragged behind the boat, but on some boats, like those with a stern swim platform, it might make more sense to terminate them at the stern, and make it so that you can re-board using the swim platform.

Inflatable PFDs with integrated harnesses. These are a lot easier to wear and use and a lot more comfortable than the non-inflatable ones.  Get an automatic inflating PFD, rather than a manual, as a majority of MOB incidents are caused by booms and boom-to-head impact, which might leave you unable to trigger the PFD inflation mechanism manually.  The one I use and prefer is the Spinlock DeckWare Pro Harness with integrated PFD.   The new Mustang Hydrostatic inflator vests are excellent too... and currently on sale at WM.

Other things I'd recommend:

Flares.  Get only SOLAS-approved flares.  They're significantly brighter and more noticeable than USCG approved ones, surpass the USCG ratings in every case, and are actually a bit safer to use. For instance, USCG handheld flares are less bright and drip hot slag as they burn, the SOLAS-grade flares don't.

A good hand-bearing compass.  Useful for all sorts of things... like determining if another boat is on a collision course, bearings to landmarks, etc.   Either get binoculars with a compass built in or a good hand-bearing compass like the Plastimo Iris 50.

A good rigging knife  I'd recommend everyone carry a good rigging knife.  If you're prone to losing them...get the $19.99 specials at West Marine, but if you can manage to keep one, get a Boye's Rigging Knife.  They're about the best rigging knives you can buy.  Practical Sailor has rated them very highly, and the blades are made of cobalt carbide and do not rust, ever.  They hold a decent edge and cut synthetic lines better than most knives. 

[CharlieJ]

I won't comment on the rest, since it's pretty good and the parts I may not totally  agree with are personal preferences, BUT

On that last part about the good rigging knife- I think you should emphasis the CARRY the knife part. It won't do you a damned bit of good sitting on a shelf down below- have it ON YOUR person all the time.

We have three or four scattered around the boat but additionally each of us has a knife AT HAND all the time.

[AdriftAtSea]

I fully agree with Charlie... too many things can result in needing a knife... and having it on you is the only way to do it.  I usually have two knives on me... a multitool with both straight and serrated knife blades that can be opened with one hand, and my Boye's rigging knife, which also can be opened with one hand. 

CARRY A RIGGING KNIFE WHILE ON THE BOAT.

[Fortis]

I've been and done the roller furling headsail thing...Really top of the line furler too....And I am back to the hank on sail school....but ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS with a downhaul. The ability to fully douse the headsail and have it flat down and controlled on the foredeck while never keaving the cockpit is MANDATORY if you cannot furl it from the cockcpit.

Thereare lots and lots of really bad and overcomplicated stories and illustrations of downhauls...There si also a really simple one that works well and reliably, with hardly any friction.

I would also suggest for the single-handed/short-handed sailor, a VHF radio with a remote mic in the cockpit that has channela nd volume controls built in. A cockpit locker or two that means you can have what you need close at hand without it being at risk of getting wet, lost or whatever, and without you needing to bounce up and down the companionway twenty times an hour.

alex.