Heading out to Bellingham on monday, then boating up to Sidney Vancouver Island and working our way to Desolation Sound, Bute Inlet and Quadra Island area. This is a simply beautiful part of the world!!! Snow capped mountains, fiord like settings, orcas, sea lions and tons of bald eagles. The fishing is great as well. This will be my 4th cruise out there.....I just love it. Each trip was during the fall and you rarely see another boat once you get further north. Off seasons have benefits.
Sounds great, what kind of boat will you be cruising on?
Will be travelling on "the dark side" ;D A friend has a trawler and 1st invited me back in 08.
Waking up in the morning, turn the furnace up, put coffee on, sit back, warm and dry... looking out through the damp-cool morning mist at the mountains with the coffee smell lingering in the air. Ask me if I missed a cockpit? ;D :o ::) Best boat type for fall cruising up in the PNW
Quick update:
Bellingham Wa though SanJauns to Sidney Vancouver Island...cruised up through the Gulf islands with several stops enroute to Naniamo, then crossed the Gulf to Pender harbour (friends there)...then down to Gibson's landing...then yesterday to downtown Vancouver. Vicky flys in tomorrow...a quick tour of the Gulf Islands then up to Desolation Sound-Bute Inlet-Quadra Island area. I love it out here. Few active boats this time of year, funkie people and beautiful scenary!!!!
:'( :'( :'( :'( :'( Pictures!!!
once I figure out this darn computer.....
I hate change. You learn one way..then things get switched!!
Kinda like going to a town you know but the streets are all different!
Wish windows 98 was still going ;D
Thanks for sharing Frank! I suppose it is something like "the right tool for the right job"...
Of course it is easy for me to. Say so, once again posting from the warm Nav station of my favorite Pearson 424 ;)
Enjoy your trip! Hope you get the pictures figured out soon!
Fog set in for the entire crossing from Bellingham to Sidney and later from Naniamo to Pender....actually most of the week. I'm a minimist by nature...but radar was SO comforting!
These are new waters for me. Much stronger currents in the narrows with tides, shipping lanes and lots of rock.
more...
There were porpoises visit and swim with us. lots of seals and it was fun to watch a sealion break water trying to get a seagull
The scenary speaks for itself....
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Thank You Frank, but now I am crying even more :'( :'( :'( ;D
Vicky landed yesteray. Had been anchored in "false creek" Vancouver. Headed over to Nanaimo today.
I forgot to mention that Gibson's Landing had some colourful signs.
One was a "cougar sighting"
The other...well...I booked Capt K into!!!!!
ROFLMAO!!
Beautiful photos, Frank. :)
I was thinking that the rocky coast and forested hills could be the coast of Maine. In the last photo, though, the mountain range is bigger.
Seems like being SF drunk and cougars could be a bad combination? ;)
Depends....Some "cougars" are more dangerous if you're drunk than others!! ;) :o
We are heading up to Desolation Sound in about a week. Then you definately won't confuse the coasts. I'll post pictures later...it is SO beautiful there!
Quote from: Frank on October 31, 2013, 11:05:08 AM
Then you definately won't confuse the coasts.
Oh, there you go now...playing that stereotypical geographic illiteracy card!! :'( ;)
Quote from: Frank on October 31, 2013, 11:05:08 AM
Depends....Some "cougars" are more dangerous if you're drunk than others!! ;) :o
It's true...one is a terrifyingly dangerous predator who would just as soon bite your head off as look at you...and the other is just a big cat. :)
It was the scenery in your current photos that reminded me of the rocky coast here. I did expect that as you got closer to those big mountains in the distance of the last photo, that similarity would diverge. I?ve seen a few photos of those bays with the dramatic mountains as their shore. They must be amazing to see in person. Hope that I get there, too, one day. Perhaps the closest thing that we have here in Maine is the mountains of Acadia National Park rising from the bays around the Island. Quite striking to experience, but may seem more like hills compared to the mountains out there in the Pacific Northwest. Still, I'll be content for now to get back to sailing around Acadia again.
Looking forward to more photos. :)
Maine is SO beautiful as well. The cliff on Moosehead lake is pretty amazing on it's own!!
we're about a week away from desolation sound...will post once some "snow topped mountains" come into view
[ [/quote]
It's true...one is a terrifyingly dangerous predator who would just as soon bite your head off as look at you...and the other is just a big cat. :)
[/quote]
GROG :o :o
Snow capped mountains
Tugs working in lumber industry. Huge saw dust shavings on barges. Nice big rock
Simply beautiful. Look beyond the marina (Gibsons)
Gorgeous Frank 8)
Wonderful!
That has to be one of the most scenic marinas anywhere. :)
Yep. It is Gibson's Landing. Kinda makes you feel like Alaska. We're visiting friends here friday before heading up towards Desolation Sound. Wifi is less frequent up there....will be anchored out most of the time. Here's another picture from this marina. It really is awesome. Cheap too with off season rates.
It is strange to see the boats in the water and yet all that snow in the background. :)
Quote from: Frank on October 30, 2013, 11:18:29 PM
The other...well...I booked Capt K into!!!!!
Gee, Thanks Frankie! :D
Capt K.....you KNOW the 1st step is "admitting"........ ;D :o
But....nice play on the words ::)
Update: We are at Heriot Bay Inn/Marina on Quadra Island. 1st wifi in a while. Since the last post....it has been amazing! We headed N, stopped at Pender Harbor to visit a friend, then headed up to Lund. Something about Lund...not sure...but it "feels right". I just like it there. From Lund we headed N to Desolation Sound. Once you turn at Sarah Point....the scenary becomes breathtaking. Multiple snow capped mountains with countless bays and islands. Chime in Tim...or anyone else that has experienced it. We poked around many anchorages with my favorite being Melanie Cove. Around the turn of the last century a logger became fed up with things and settled into the head of Melanie Cove to "figure life out". "Old Mike" logged his property, built his cabin and then...to provide funds in his later years...planted apple trees so he would have something to sell the logging camps for income. He read Plato, Emmerson and many other classics in his "search". I guess...in many ways he was like Thoreau...but unlike Thoreau, this was not a 2yr "experiment", rather his permanent lifestyle. He died in the late 30's...nearly 4 decades after clearing his lot. Anyhoot...it was fun walking the grounds his cabin (long gone) stood on. From Desolation Sound area, we headed NW towards Bute Inlet and my 1st experience timing tidal rapids. With a fair range from high to low...several narrows become extremely dangerous if not passed on or near "slack tide". After coming up 'Calm Channel" our 1st pass was "Arron Rapids" which went extremely well. From there we continued the short distance towards "Dent Rapids" which lead to Cordero Channel. We were heading to Shoal Bay for the night. Well...we all have had "majic moments" cruising. I've got a few miles under a keel and must say that the few short miles from Dent Rapids to Shoal Bay are right up there with my best every moments boating! As we headed through Dent Rapids, there was about 16 Sea Lions sunning on a rock ledge. Geez they are huge!! There were 3 Bald Eagles flying above! As we were about to clear into the channel...a Humpback Whale blew right off our stbd beam!! He followed us for over a mile. Vicky joked "we had a stalker". The usual seals could be seen along shore as well. Then as we neared Nodales Channel entrance, about 30 porpoise's swarmed us and played at our bow for over 45 minutes!!! Simply amazing!! They are smaller than dolphins and much more agile. They would speed in towards our bow and turn at the last second. It was obvious they were having fun and enjoying the company!! A short distance after they finally left us, we turned into Shoal bay and were only settled a short time when our Humpback friend breached water and blew. I guess he was following but heading farther NW than we were. It was awesome to watch as he would suface 3 times then dive deep. 8-10 minutes later he would blow again. We felt like we were in "Animal Kingdom"...the entire time surrounded by mountains. We are again provisioned and heading back up. Good news/bad news. Good news is I have a ton of pictures and luckily got the whale, porpoise's and sealions on video as well. Bad news is I can't post until I get home mid December. (computer troubles) PS...we have this play ground to ourselves!! The chap at Shoal Bay said we were the 1st cruising boat through since mid October!
Frank, I just read this two times in a row, shaking my head the whole time. You are so freaking fortunate to be up there this time of year in a boat that is made for it. I have got to get to work on the same and make it happen. Dang I want to be back up there. Keep up the reports even without pics.
I feel blessed being here. It is amazing!!!
It does seem amazing to experience so much wildlife in one area. Am eager to see the photos and videos when you get back.
Old Mike and his cabin sounds a bit like Dick Proenneke (http://www.hermitary.com/articles/proenneke.html), immortalized in his film programs on PBS.
Pics are great, SO glad you are having fun, but it's just too durned cold up there for this gulf coast sailor ;D
Hey it was 41 the other morning and I was forced into SOCKS!!! And jeans instead of shorts!!! Yuck!!
:D :D
Beautiful area though- keep having fun
CJ....it's not too cold. The boat has an espar diesel forced air heater!! I'm cruising from inside the wheel house with slippers on...coffee in hand ;D ;)
Some photos Frank emailed me;
The sealions are bigger than I expected.
The humpback stayed with us for several miles....
as did the porpoises.
As you round every bend, the scenary changes and you want to take out the camera.
(http://sailfar.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10375/photo_6.JPG)
(http://sailfar.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10375/photo_5.JPG)
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(http://sailfar.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10375/photo_1.JPG)
And a few more from Frank;
Thanks Tim. The 1st pic is the dock at shoal bay. The view is awesome!
Full moon right now and tides about 14ft!
The guy that lives there is too funny.
There are 3-4 cabins..."twin city to Paris france" ;D
We are provisioned and heading back into Desolation Sound tomorrow with sunshine forcast
for several days.....rare this time of year. Looking forward to it.
(http://sailfar.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10375/photo_1~0.JPG)
(http://sailfar.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10375/photo_3~0.JPG)
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(http://sailfar.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10375/photo_6~0.JPG)
Just back from a few days at Cortes Isl and another tour around Desolation Sound. All I can say is WOW. It snowed since 1st tour and the mountains looked simply awesome!! The feeling of being part of a "National Geographic Special" is hard to shake. There is no one out here this tme of year. The scenary is superb and wild life constant. Vicky will send a few pics to post later.
more...
I know this is a KISS site and I wouldn't call the boat I'm currently on KISS. But as we cruise up here, I keep thinking about a "project hull" I have at home. Its a shark 24 hull but no mast/boom or keel. I'm having visions of doing a pilot house on it and creating a light weight, easy to tow lil mini trawler. An 8HP 4 stroke would push it smoothly at 6-7 knots and be great on fuel. Yep....KISS is very much on my mind.
Quick update: The boat was hauled and blocked yesterday and will fly home tomorrow. Ended at 782 nautical miles total. I still haven't fully digested all that we saw while here. One of our last destinations was Princess Louisa Inlet. Words nor photos can really discribe it....you must experience it. Once I'm home and settled for a bit I will post more pictures. All I can say is if at all possible for anyone here that loves scenary and nature....these cruising grounds are among the finest anyone can pass through....do it. There is a lifetime of islands and inlets to explore. I'm already getting the "re-entry" depression. It has been 2 amazing mths onboard. Biggest concerns were tide, winds speed and direction and if there was enough Gosling Rum. This simplicity will change dramitically in a few days. I'm not looking forward to it.....seems to get harder each time.
A few more
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Lund is mile 0
Lund harbor mascot (Neptune)
Princess Louisa.....AMAZING place!
princess Louisa...chatterbox falls
PL
Princess Louisa was awesome!
I'll wrap this thread up for now. We took over 1200 pictures and several video's while poking around these waters. It really is hard to put the camera down....great scenery and wildlife are so plentiful. It is a little out of the way for many, but if you have every thought of trailering your boat there or chartering, I can assure you that you would be well rewarded for your efforts. Summer would be both warmer and have more sunshine than during the time we were there, but I loved the solitude. It is like being in your own wonderland after september. Once you get confident useing the tide tables for the various rapids, it really is an easy place to navigate with a well rounded mix of quiet out of the way anchorages as well as little places for supplies and a dinner out. Hopefully Tim returns next summer and he'll share his thoughts and pictures here.
FWIW here are links to some past trips there;
http://www.pbase.com/morningdove/desolation_sound_06
http://www.pbase.com/morningdove/desolation_sound_2008
http://www.pbase.com/morningdove/desolation_sound_2012
That is some incredible and awesome scenery. I love the pictures with sunshine. :)
1st....I have wondered if I should post this report. I'll admit...I have gone "to the dark side" for PNW cruising during the fall. Then...the boat is not really "KISS"...but it is well suited for this use. We have auto pilot, a plotter and an espar heater. Makes things very comfortable...even on rain days in the wheel house. But...what you experience here this time of year is siimply awesome. There are near zero other boats cruising. You have this prestine wilderness to yourself.
Anyone within hitting distance of cruising here really should consider it.
We've been out since Sept 14th and to date have put 890 nautical miles on. (138 engne hours) We cruise at about 6.5 knts and try to work the tides. I won't bore everyone with the "on day 3 we did.." stuff....I'll simply report what stands out in my mind.
We did the San Juans. Loved them. Friday harbor was truly funky with a wide assortment of boats big and very small. Neat folks and a great lil town to poke around. Its on the "go back to" list. Roche Harbor...although beautiful, is full of "dock queens". The people were snobbish and the average boat looked to be 7 figures. It's on the "seen it-done it-no need to return" list. We also stopped at Laconnor...loved the lil town. Great older buildings and friendly folk.
Back up through the Gulf Islands we stopped at Sydney. Beautiful lil town! From there we took a bus (only $2) to Victoria. Victoria has some awesome older buildings and is a bussling city. Glad to have saw it...glad to take the $2 bus ride back to Sydney. On our way through the Gulf Islands we had stops at Salt Spring Isl (hippy ville), Chemainus (with it's multiple wall sized murals...a must see), Lady Smith and Nanaimo. All good.
Crossing the straight we've been to Gibsons Landing (where the old Beachcombers TV show was filmed), Pender Harbour on up to Powel River and Lund. All funky in their own way. From Lund on...you are getting even further away from any towns or people.
A short day from Lund takes you into Desolation Sound. Simply awesome wilderness and too many anchorages to mention. The snow capped mountain vistas are beyond words.
From there we went up through the "Discovery Islands" complete with 5 sets of tidal rapids that MUST be timed for slack or you'll be in trouble quickly. You are on your own up here and must be careful. Sloal Bay is a favorite stop. The view from the dock up Philips Arm is breathtaking and every changing with varying light and clouds up the mountains. Of note: This lil 3 shack place was a bustling community in the 1800's between a mine, the fisheries and the lumber biz. It had a town of over 5000 people complete with hotels, bars and a brothel. It was actually substantially bigger than Vancouver at one time. Hard to believe when viewed now. I should note that there are multiple books about the history of the coast and truly add to the experience as it has a rich past full of events and characters.
Moving on N we entered the Broughton Archapeligo. Knight and Kingcome Inlets, Tribune channel and others are majectic. The islands them selves are great to cruise through as well. At Echo Bay..Bill Proctor (turned 80 while we were there) is a fisherman turned enviromentalist and has a museum (free) of the things he's collected over a life time. he is a treasure to talk to...full of history and experiences. Shawl Bay is another worthy stop with Lorne...another pleasant "lifer" owning the tired lil marina. Joe Cove is a great anchorage..pretty and well protected.....many others (this is a long story very short)
We crossed BlackFish Sound 3 times on supply runs to Port McNeil (a great place to provision and get fuel)
BlackFish was the old name for Orca (killer whales). As we were late...we missed them but each crossing we were treated to multiple Humpback whales as well as 40+ Sea Lions and the usual seals (common as squirrels back home)
I had a somewhat spiritual experience at Bond Sound (off Tribune channel) Bond sound is unique in that it has never been logged and the feed river at the head was never used to run logs. We anchored as close inshore near the river mouth as possible and I hopped on the dingy to get closer in...hoping to see a grizzly as a few salmon were still running. Although no bears were sighted...the wildlife is incredible. A huge veriety of birds (and numbers) made quite the orchestra. There were seals awaiting the salmon as well as 76 (yes..SEVENTY SIX!) bald eagles in the trees within view. The sights and sounds left an impact. Isn't it amazing how well nature does when man doesn't F it all up!!! I didn't want to leave.
We ventured up N as far as Drury Inlet. Any further would have put us offshore up Queen Charlette Straight and the wind blows often in late fall.
We poked back, spent more time exploring the islands all the way S and today I'm pecking this out from Powell River. Vicky just flew out this morning. I've got boat cleaning, an oil change and provisioning for a "guys run" starting monday.
A few events of note. We've had both dolpnins and porpoises often. In Knight Inlet we were followed by a pod of about 20 twice. At the intersection of Cordero Channel and Frederick Arm we encountered about 200+ !! I shut down and they were all around the boat...playing and feeding. Some were very interested in us...others couldn't care. As noted ...Blackfish Sound never failed to give us whale and sealion sightings.
The fishing is good here. You "jig" off the bottom for Ling Cod and Rock Cod. Trolling flashy spoons for salmon is common (I didn't get a license as it was late) Crabs and Prawns are there if you have the room for pots.
The PNW is hard to discribe. It is busy as far as Desolation Sound during july/august and then quiets down. The further N you go...the more lonely and remote. The scenary is incredible (Tim will attest) it must be experienced. Pictures don't do justice. I feel blessed to have saw and experienced what we have. Another 3 weeks to go before haul out. Will be a sad day.
PS...I can't post pictures...I will once home
Man! Why did I ever leave! Glad you are still out there having fun :D
Because it's coming on winter and it get's COLD up there?? Plenty good enough reason for me. It's 64 here and I have a heater going !!!
Cold SUX!!!
Thank you for the report, Frank. :)
Look forward to seeing the photos.
The cruise is over...hauling out next tuesday. Always go into a state of depression come this time....I'd much rather turn the boat around and head back N. (yes CJ...I typed N) ;) Anyhoot...as all know...local knowledge is king while in new places. I spent some time poking around and found a fenced storage area with security cameras and controlled entry for only $50 mth as well as another guy to haul/launch for 1/2 of what I paid last year. It was time well $pent. Nice folks too. Once home...I'll post a few pictures but for now I'll leave it that if you really like nature and the PNW is within hitting distance...GO!!
Sounds great, Frank. The PNW is nowhere convenient, sadly. Might be fun some day, though, to find a small boat for sale in the area, cruise for a couple months, then sell it. If only I could find some way to make money without actually showing up at work...
Man, I found out about that post cruise depression thing. It took me a month and a half before I started feeling like myself.
Gets worst every year. I think I just gotta live aboard :o
Humpbacks every crossing of BlackFish Sound..
Tacky marina weather..
2nd picture is Billy Proctor's place. A lifer...he logged and commercially fished. In his late 50's he became an enviromentalist and lobbied to protect wild salmon as well as Bond Sound (never logged) He is featured in 2 books, an encredible wealth of knowledge! I was lucky to be there and talk to him and tour his property and see his collection of...as he calls it "junk" that he's accumulated over his lifetime...a true historical museum. A wonderful unassuming guy!!
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No big story...I'll let the pictures talk....
Bond Sound was never logged or the feeder stream never ruined. It is now "saved" and never will be. We anchored and I dingy'd in close. There were a ton of different birds...the sounds were amazing! Salmon were nearly done but a few still swam up. There were seals and at one point I counted 76 Bald Eagles from the dingy. There are 17 in this picture alone!! (a few immature) Unreal when man doesn't F things up!!
We were a bit late for Orca...but often saw humpbacks. They can get to 78,000Lbs!!
We saw this guy later near Lund while returning. He breached clear out of the water twice!! One heck of a splash!!
It rains often and last year during a very heavy spell...Knight Inlet had over 60 landslides. When it gets too saturated, heavy and slippery...it just cleans off to the rock base on the way down. Must be wild to witness
Tahiti North :D
We saw Dolphins often...typically in small pods of 5-10. I have video of us with more than 200 around the boat!!! It was a surreal experience. I guess they were feeding. The dolphins here are smaller than Florida or Abacos. They are light grey with white shades. We had large pods of porpoises as well...25-30. They are smaller, faster and look like mini killer whales (black/white) Videos...no pics :(
Very few windy days. This was at the lower end of Bute inlet (snow capped mountains a lil further up)
Yep CJ....a few days we had frost till the afternoon :o
We ended up with 1063 nautical miles (1222 statute miles)....all at about 6.5 knots. The amazing thing was we only saw one other cruising boat for one night! It truly is deserted this time of year. There are a few work boats running but even they are few and far between as you get N.
I didn't put town pictures on. We provisioned at Powell River, a bit at Lund, and twice at Port Mcniel while N (a great, boat friendly stop) I figured it was the scernery I came for and figured we've all seen town docks.
Lots more pictures but don't want to load up the site too much.
Absolutely Gorgeous, thank you thank you
Really lovely but I'll enjoy the pics thank you. I much prefer warm. Bahamas sound nice- not the same scenery for sure, but no cold either.
Lovely pics Frank- glad ya'll had a good time.
A few thoughts...
We passed a total of 8 tidal rapids that must be timed for "slack" ..some run 12knts at full flow with whirlpools and standing waves. We made 4 pass's through narrows with "range markers". Granite is very unforgiving and there's planty of shoals. Tidal books and navigation are key. The Straight of Georgia or Queen Charlette Sound can get really nasty...they are big bodies of water. Then...throw in fog.
That said...with basic navigation skills, some experience and an eye to cautious seamanship....it can be done by most anyone.
Tim knows the beauty of the PNW ...I'm sure he'll agree it's well worth the effort.
Gogot makes a very valid point. As with any area that has a lot of boats...there are deals. Beside me tonight is a Tanzer 26 with a honda outboard for $3000. One could buy it....cruise N for a several months and put it for sale at the end. I doubt it would be worth less and with a lil TLC, most likely more. Great idea!!
CJ...thats not frost...that's "solid heat"......much like the rain here is "liquid sunshine" :D ::)
I have come to love an espar heater ;)
Beautiful photos, Frank.
Thanks and congrats. :)