To let you know where I am coming from, I have not sailed for many years due to bad health. Although I am on a slow path to recovery I will not sail for several years yet. What keeps me going is the dream that I will one day recover enough to be able to go on the singlehanded, lenghty cruise that I have always dreamed of. (Lurking on this forum helps a lot. Grog to you all!)
I also realize that for most, the time for cruising is when you are getting old and stiff and need a daily nap so this question may be of interest to others than myself.
Anyway, what is on my mind is:
What size, type or configuration of boat is the least exausting to sail in the long run?
A smaller boat is easier to handle but when does lack of headroom and cramped living become even more of a stress (Is a Montgomery 17 easier than an Alberg 30)?
Does the ease of handling of a junk rig compensate for the added days of sailing due to lack of performance when in coastal areas?
Any thoughts or experience?
Quote from: SeaHusky on December 18, 2010, 10:33:08 AM
A smaller boat is easier to handle but when does lack of headroom and cramped living become even more of a stress (Is a Montgomery 17 easier than an Alberg 30)?
I'd say a Monty 17 is easier than an Alberg 30 in
some conditions.
And that's the rub. Your question is overly broad, really. There is no "one boat" for all conditions/sailing styles/locations, etc.
What the Alberg 30 brings over the Monty 17 is REST in roughish conditions. Crew comfort may be downplayed on this site somewhat (to a degree), but insofar as comfort=rest, comfort is paramount. That's my opinion, anyway. A boat that allows you some degree of comfort/shelter when off watch or not physically sailing that boat is a good place to draw 'that line.' Whatever "some degree of comfort" is enough for you will determine the line more specifically.
So, if you are singlehanding and you KNOW (as much as this can be known) you will not be in any kind of trying weather or sea states, mostly short 'day sails' with lots of time off the boat - a Monty 17 would be a great choice. If you are talking about multi day passagemaking, the Montgomery looks less attractive.
Point being: you must carefully weigh how YOU will be using the boat...then find a boat that fits your own use profile and comfort levels.
I own a Bristol 19, Bristol 24, and a Cheoy Lee 31 ketch. Of the 3; the Bristol 24 is the best compromise for single handed cruising for me. It's easier to dock singlehanded than the 31, and carries more provisions than the 19. On a recent 1000 mile cruise, in the 24, I was able to get ungrounded a couple times by myself. The 24 will also handle almost anything the 31 can. A small tiller pilot works well on the 24 both motoring and sailing.
although I have not gone on an extended cruise I feel that a 27 footer might be the way to go. you have the ease of handling both at sea and coming into port you also have stowage for both water and food. I single hand my 27 all the time and really enjoy it. I had a 24 footer and it was fun to sail but not enough room for stowage. I helped get a 27 footer ready for a cruise to the islands and it proved to have enough room for every thing that was going to go with the boat. My two cents for what its worth
I'll go more along Capt Smollett's thinking... "depends?". Just be totally honest with yourself on how and where you are going to use your boat. Will you trailer it? Will it be shallow water often? How long are the periods you will honestly be away? Protected waters? Extended open ocean? All these factors will determine the design that will work best for you.
Once ya figure out how-where you're going to sail...get the smallest that will comfortably work. ;D
Quote from: Frank on December 18, 2010, 07:14:14 PM
I'll go more along Capt Smollett's thinking... "depends?".
Thanks!
Yes, I should of course have been more specific. For me the problem is that I don't know what level of fitness I will regain and so that will determine what kind of cruising I will be able to do. There will be a "window" between recovering from illness and getting old and many people say they should have gone when they were younger and stronger.
To be specific, for a several month, singlehanded cruise with multiple day crossings and the possibility of bad weather is, for example, a 3 ton Flicka easier to handle than a 3 ton 27 footer or is there a size when the smaller boat gets tougher in the long run? Is a good 20 footer the way to go or will the small size be tougher i the end because of lack of comfort?
When do the sails get to big to handle if you are not young and fit?
Has anyone here downsized because of failing health and how did that work out?
For someone who anticipates limited mobility, I'd sure look at multihulls, particularly catamarans. FAR less tiring to sail aboard, much more comfortable in an anchorage.
We find our 25 quite easy to sail. Laura at 5'2" can easily single hand the boat, including anchoring and hauling anchor.
On another tack ;) I certainly would not reject a junk rig. I've sailed aboard one and they aren't that much of a tradeoff. At sea in a small boat (say under 35 feet) you aren't gonna do much more than 4- 4.5 knots anyway, particularly to weather.
A multihull would be interesting to try but up here they are uncommon and cost way to much.
Taking Smollett's point, I suppose the way to go is to wait till I'm well enough and get a GRP Folkboat, sails like a 30 footer and has the interior of a 20 footer, and then just see how it goes. ;)
I had a 25' Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer which was their carvel planked copy of a Folkboat and currently I have a Cape Dory 28.
I loved the Flyer and still think she sailed a bit better than the CD28.
I short tacked her one night up a 75' wide channel at dusk with no lights in a very light breeze.... not something I think the CD can do.
The trade off is that in living aboard both boats the Flyer had only 4-1/2 feet of headroom and no head, versus the CD28 which has a little over 6' of headroom and a head w/holding tank. And a full galley.
If only I could merge the two..........
Hi There.
I've also been lurking here for years. This is my first post and it will be a bit long.
I sail in Australia. For years (since 1984) I had 18 foot trailer sailers. Before that - various off beach boats. In January 2004 I was the in a hit & run (my motorbike and I were the parts that were 'hit').
A dozen fractures (more according to my specialists) including fractures of both ankles, both wrists, spine, leg, internal injuries, separations of both A.C. joints and depression.
After a year and a half I got back aboard my 18 foot Embassy and decided to go out. I fell overboard at anchor a couple of times due to mobility problems and knee and ankle joints that gave way unexpectedly, mostly because of the narrow side decks. At one point I fell from a friend's boat while climbing down into my dinghy, and only his quick action saved me from a broken leg.
I was checking a trailable quarter tonner (26 foot) for a friend and when he didn't buy it I remembered the nice wide side decks and flat foredeck, and the furler headsail. I bought it for AUD$8000.
That boat gave me the confidence to start sailing again, and had I not lost her in the cyclone in March this year I would still be sailing her. Her replacement is not trailable, but is still a quarter tonner.
The Quarter Ton IOR rule was a compromise for racing to beat rules, and there are some really bad ideas incorporated into the design. The sloping transom that cuts deck room and storage area, the narrow beam aft, the steeply sloping stem. But there are definite advantages to these boats.
Quarter Tonners were designed to race. New boats the same size are faster, but the Qt moves through the sea with little wake, and is fairly stiff once she reacher her best heel angle. They generally have very side side decks. A real pain when you look at cabin width internally, but wonderful things to stroll about outside. None of this business of wondering where you can put your feet if you have to go forward in a big sea.
And forward.. What a wonderful place. A huge flat deck to stand on, change sails if you don;t have a furler, play with anchors. Not big enough for tennis though :-(
My boat Volcano, a Seaway 25 (actually 25' 10") came with a locally designed and very robust roller furler/reefer for the headsail. That's right, it was designed to reef as well. I had a new sail made especially to suit the furler and the performance was fantastic when reefed.
She also came with a custom designed jiffy reefing system on the main so the main could be reefed in seconds from the cockpit. I added a really basic home made lazy jack system to collect the main when reefing or dropping it.
So all sail handling was done easily from the cockpit by someone with injuries.
My current boat, Shepherd Moons, is a Cavalier 26. She doesn't have a headsail furler yet, but I have made a quite serviceable headsail downhaul that operates from the cockpit. I added the same type of lazy jack system as I had on Volcano (about $20 of double braid - no pulleys), and the thing I didn't get around to on Volcano - a MUIR manual vertical anchor winch. I haven't rigged single line reefing for the main yet. But then I often sail with a full main in up to 35 knots. Just ease it a little, because when the wind comes up suddenly here I don;t want to be playing with the main in 10 foot breaking seas, and most of our crossings here are short. On a long cruise I would reef early.
I considered electric winch options, but with an outboard, the reserve power needed to run an electric winch for more than a few seconds is not there. The MUIR winch has the hole for the winch handle offset to one edge. That means the handle can be installed in various positions. Straight across from the outer edge, across the middle to the other side of the winch gives a small diameter turn and fast retrieval. The handle going straight out from the outside of the winch rather than across it gives a large turning circle. Low gear, which is great for retrieving a chain and anchor from deep water. All this without a mechanical gearing mechanism. The MUIR also handles rope on the same gypsy.
My Cavalier 26 has standing headroom for me, which Volcano didn't have. But I'm only short at 5' 8".
Our normal sailing conditions here are about 20 knots and about 6 or 7 foot waves about 25 feet apart. We usually have to sail almost beam on to the seas to get anywhere. Often we have 25 to 30 knots and the seas are also often higher at around 10 foot. I tow a 10 foot aluminium dinghy. Sheppy's motor is a 15 year old 9.9hp electric start Yamaha 4-stroke driving a 12" x 9.5" prop.
Ok, a long first post - sorry. But having serious health problems, including lots of arthritis and nerve damage from the injuries as well as a condition called Chronic Fatigue, which often means I get to an anchorage and don't emerge from the cabin for a day or two, the size boat I can handle might be relevant :-)
Cheers,
RossD.
RossD:
Welcome to SailFar, and welcome back to sailing.
It sounds like you've had lots of small-boat experience, and we'll welcome your contributions to this site's growing knowledge base.
Merry Christmas (I can't imagine celebrating Christmas in shorts and flip-flops!).
--Joe
I come at things from the *ahem* larger end of the spectrum. I think there is a balance between the lower forces associated with a smaller boat and the greater stability of larger hulls. It can be disconcerting to have one's own weight have a substantial impact on the boat.
Just where the tipping point is varies with skill and experience.
Perhaps you can find someone with a 27ish boat and spend some time on it to start getting a good feeling for where your tipping point is.
Quote from: Auspicious on December 22, 2010, 12:50:53 PM
the greater stability of larger hulls.
;D
I cannot resist the opportunity to bust your chops on this one. To wit:
A sample list of boats over 40 ft with Capsize Screening Ratio's greater than 2.0:
Quote
Baltic 43, LOA=43.34, Capsize Ratio=2.04
Bavaria 40, LOA=40.94, Capsize Ratio=2.02
Bavaria 44, LOA=45.77, Capsize Ratio=2.02
Beneteau 411, LOA=41.67, Capsize Ratio=2.01
Beneteau 42s 7, LOA=42.6, Capsize Ratio=2.07
Beneteau 47.7, LOA=48.5833, Capsize Ratio=2.01
Beneteau First 41S5, LOA=41.33, Capsize Ratio=2.03
Beneteau First 42s7 (std Rig), LOA=42.2, Capsize Ratio=2.05
Beneteau First Class 12, LOA=40.5, Capsize Ratio=2.35
Beneteau Oceanis 430, LOA=42.52, Capsize Ratio=2.05
Beneteau Oceanis 44 CC, LOA=42.12, Capsize Ratio=2.03
Beneteau Oceanis 440, LOA=43.74, Capsize Ratio=2.05
Beneteau Oceanis 510, LOA=50.25, Capsize Ratio=2.01
Catalina 400, LOA=40.13, Capsize Ratio=2.06
Catalina 42, LOA=40.44, Capsize Ratio=2.11
Challenger 41, LOA=41.1, Capsize Ratio=2.08
Dufour 43 CC, LOA=43.7, Capsize Ratio=2.12
Gib'Sea 41, LOA=41.5, Capsize Ratio=2.01
Grand Soleil 40, LOA=40.33, Capsize Ratio=2.03
Herreshoff 45 Cat Ketch, LOA=45, Capsize Ratio=2.04
Hunter 410 (Deep), LOA=41.08, Capsize Ratio=2.06
Hunter 410 (Shoal), LOA=41.08, Capsize Ratio=2.03
Hunter 426, LOA=43.41, Capsize Ratio=2.01
Hunter 45 DS, LOA=42.08, Capsize Ratio=2.04
Hunter Passage 420, LOA=40.43, Capsize Ratio=2.03
IMAGE 47, LOA=46.37, Capsize Ratio=21.24
J/41, LOA=40.8, Capsize Ratio=2.34
Jeanneau 44i, LOA=45.11, Capsize Ratio=2.05
Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 43DS, LOA=43.4, Capsize Ratio=2.02
Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 45 Performance, LOA=45, Capsize Ratio=2.05
Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 45.2, LOA=46.5, Capsize Ratio=2.16
Kirie 486, LOA=47.6, Capsize Ratio=2.08
Olson 40, LOA=40.33, Capsize Ratio=2.01
Olson 40, LOA=40.33, Capsize Ratio=2.08
Ovni 395, LOA=40.3, Capsize Ratio=2.01
Sabre 402, LOA=40.41, Capsize Ratio=2.01
Sadler Barracuda 45, LOA=45, Capsize Ratio=2.14
Santa Cruz 52, LOA=53, Capsize Ratio=2.03
Sydney 38, LOA=126.38, Capsize Ratio=2.13
T1550, LOA=50.9, Capsize Ratio=2.22
Tartan 4100, LOA=41.3, Capsize Ratio=2.04
Transpac 52, LOA=52, Capsize Ratio=2.25
Veolia Oceans (monotype), LOA=52.5, Capsize Ratio=2.77
Volvo 70, LOA=70.5, Capsize Ratio=2.65
X-412, LOA=41, Capsize Ratio=2.02
X-412 Mk III, LOA=41, Capsize Ratio=2.01
And, contrast a list of 30 footers and under with CSR < 1.90:
Quote
20 Sloop - Little Gull, LOA=20.25, Capsize Ratio=1.45
Acadian 30 Mk. II Yawl, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.74
Airturbine 1967 Model 009, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.54
Alberg 29, LOA=29.25, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Alberg 30, LOA=30.25, Capsize Ratio=1.68
Albin 85 Cumulus, LOA=28.28, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Albin Vega, LOA=27.08, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Alerion Express 28, LOA=28.31, Capsize Ratio=1.82
Allegra 24, LOA=24, Capsize Ratio=1.71
Allied Chance 30/30, LOA=30.3, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Allied Greenwich 24, LOA=24.25, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Allied Seawind, LOA=30.5, Capsize Ratio=1.57
American 8.5, LOA=27.6, Capsize Ratio=1.73
Amigo 22 Gaff, LOA=22, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Atkin Martha Green, LOA=24, Capsize Ratio=1.89
Atkin's Eric, Jr., LOA=25.17, Capsize Ratio=1.59
B-31 Starboat, LOA=30.64, Capsize Ratio=1.83
Baba 30, LOA=29.75, Capsize Ratio=1.77
Bandholm 26, LOA=26.64, Capsize Ratio=1.68
Bayliner Buccaneer 27, LOA=26.66, Capsize Ratio=1.71
Bayliner Buccaneer 305, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.89
Benford 18' Canoe Yawl, LOA=18, Capsize Ratio=1.74
Benford 23' Yawl, LOA=23, Capsize Ratio=1.69
Bianca 27, LOA=27.1, Capsize Ratio=1.66
Blue Moon Yawl, LOA=22.9, Capsize Ratio=1.72
Bodega 30, LOA=29.5, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Bolger AS29 No Reacher, LOA=29.08, Capsize Ratio=1.61
Bolger AS29 With Reacher, LOA=29.08, Capsize Ratio=1.61
Bolger Blueberry, LOA=19.14, Capsize Ratio=1.83
Bolger Jessie Cooper, LOA=25.5, Capsize Ratio=1.64
Bolger Jochems Schooner, LOA=24.07, Capsize Ratio=1.67
Bolger Leeboard Catboat, LOA=21.47, Capsize Ratio=1.65
Bolger Marina Cruiser, LOA=21.18, Capsize Ratio=1.82
Bolger Martha Jane, LOA=22.73, Capsize Ratio=1.81
Bolger Newfoundlander, LOA=29.67, Capsize Ratio=1.57
Bolger Presto Cruiser, LOA=27.46, Capsize Ratio=1.54
Bolger Red Zinger, LOA=26.37, Capsize Ratio=1.8
Bolger Romp, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.53
Bolger Schuyt Houseboat, LOA=26.79, Capsize Ratio=1.77
Bolger Whalewatcher, LOA=28.94, Capsize Ratio=1.55
Bristol 19 Corinthian, LOA=19.54, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Bristol 24/Sailstar Corsair, LOA=24.6, Capsize Ratio=1.77
Bristol 26 (CB), LOA=26, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Bristol 26 (keel), LOA=26, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Bristol 27, LOA=27.2, Capsize Ratio=1.71
Bristol 29 (1968 ), LOA=29.08, Capsize Ratio=1.8
Bristol 30, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.8
Bristol Channel Cutter, LOA=28.083, Capsize Ratio=1.67
Buehler Emily, LOA=29.39, Capsize Ratio=1.49
Buehler Hagar, LOA=28.78, Capsize Ratio=1.6
Buehler Pogo Pogo, LOA=16, Capsize Ratio=1.75
Buzzards Bay 14, LOA=17.75, Capsize Ratio=1.85
C&C 30 Mega, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.52
C&C Redwing 30, LOA=30.29, Capsize Ratio=1.8
Cal 2-29, LOA=30.06, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Cal 2-30, LOA=30.5, Capsize Ratio=1.63
Cal 2-30, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.75
Cal 29, LOA=29, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Cape Cod Goldeneye, LOA=18.25, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Cape Dory 25, LOA=24.833, Capsize Ratio=1.83
Cape Dory 25D, LOA=25, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Cape Dory 26, LOA=26.18, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Cape Dory 27, LOA=27.1, Capsize Ratio=1.74
Cape Dory 270, LOA=27.25, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Cape Dory 28, LOA=28.145, Capsize Ratio=1.71
Cape Dory 30, LOA=30.12, Capsize Ratio=1.67
Cape Dory Hood Cape 30, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Captain Blackburn Cutter, LOA=27.75, Capsize Ratio=1.54
Cascade 29, LOA=29, Capsize Ratio=1.6
Catalina 27 Std Rig, LOA=26.83, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Catalina 27 Tall Rig DK OB, LOA=26.83, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Cheoy Lee Alden 32 M/S, LOA=30.33, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Cheoy Lee B30, LOA=29.58, Capsize Ratio=1.6
Cheoy Lee Luders 30, LOA=29.83, Capsize Ratio=1.69
Cheoy Lee Offshore 27, LOA=26.21, Capsize Ratio=1.62
Cheoy Lee Offshore 28, LOA=28, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Cheoy Lee Offshore 31, LOA=30.76, Capsize Ratio=1.59
Chrysler 26, LOA=26.46, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Columbia 26, LOA=26.25, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Columbia 26 MKII Shoal Keel, LOA=25.6, Capsize Ratio=1.81
Columbia 26MKII, LOA=25.29, Capsize Ratio=1.88
Columbia 27, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Columbia 28, LOA=27.58, Capsize Ratio=1.82
Columbia 28 MKII, LOA=27.7, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Columbia 29 Defender, LOA=28.5, Capsize Ratio=1.57
Columbia 29 MkII, LOA=28.5, Capsize Ratio=1.57
Columbia 30, LOA=29.27, Capsize Ratio=1.74
Columbia 30 Shoal Draft, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.63
Compass 28, LOA=28.15, Capsize Ratio=1.69
Compass 29, LOA=29, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Contessa 26, LOA=24.41, Capsize Ratio=1.71
Cornish Crabber Pilot 30, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.64
Cornish Crabber Piper 24, LOA=24.417, Capsize Ratio=1.64
Coronado 27, LOA=26.75, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Coronado 28, LOA=28, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Crocker Gull, LOA=30.33, Capsize Ratio=1.64
Crown 28, LOA=27.75, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Dana, LOA=23.94, Capsize Ratio=1.72
Delher34rs, LOA=10.51, Capsize Ratio=0.79
Down East Schooner, LOA=26, Capsize Ratio=1.82
Duncanson 29, LOA=29, Capsize Ratio=1.49
Eastward Ho 24, LOA=23.67, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Ericson 25, LOA=24.49, Capsize Ratio=1.82
Ericson 27, LOA=27.34, Capsize Ratio=1.88
Ericson 29, LOA=29.05, Capsize Ratio=1.81
Ericson 31i, LOA=30.917, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Etchells 22, LOA=30.5, Capsize Ratio=1.88
FISHER 30, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.57
Falmouth Cutter 22, LOA=22, Capsize Ratio=1.64
Farallon 29, LOA=29.41, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Fisher 25, LOA=25.2, Capsize Ratio=1.74
Flicka (IB), LOA=20, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Flicka 20, LOA=24, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Flying Dutchman, LOA=22, Capsize Ratio=1.63
Folkboat, LOA=24.11, Capsize Ratio=1.77
GAIA 95 (Lerouge Design), LOA=29.53, Capsize Ratio=1.87
GREAT DANE 28, LOA=27.89, Capsize Ratio=1.56
Ganley Snowbird 30, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.69
Gartside #191, LOA=20, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Gartside 'Surprise', LOA=22.33, Capsize Ratio=1.71
Gartside Cutter, LOA=29, Capsize Ratio=1.45
Gartside Cutter 30 Ft, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.39
Genzel Phantom, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Genzel Phantom 30, LOA=30.1, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Glander Cay 27, LOA=23.9, Capsize Ratio=1.69
Glen-L 30, LOA=29.16, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Glen-L Amigo, LOA=25, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Glen-L Coaster, LOA=25.166, Capsize Ratio=1.88
Glen-L Francis Drake, LOA=29, Capsize Ratio=1.83
Glen-L James Cook, LOA=29.9166, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Golden Gate 30, LOA=29.6, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Grampian 26, LOA=26, Capsize Ratio=1.89
Grampian 30, LOA=29.75, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Grampian Classic 31, LOA=30.916, Capsize Ratio=1.56
HAKA 100 (Lerouge Design), LOA=29.53, Capsize Ratio=1.74
HAKA 86, LOA=26.25, Capsize Ratio=1.32
HR 28, LOA=28, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Halcyon 27, LOA=27, Capsize Ratio=1.65
Hallberg Rassy 94 Kutter, LOA=30.83, Capsize Ratio=1.89
Hallberg-Rassy 29, LOA=29.1, Capsize Ratio=1.83
Hallberg-Rassy 312, LOA=30.9, Capsize Ratio=1.73
Hallberg-Rassy Monsun 31, LOA=30.75, Capsize Ratio=1.81
Hanse 540, LOA=16.08, Capsize Ratio=0.74
Harstad 32 Motorsailor, LOA=30.99, Capsize Ratio=1.6
Herreschoff H-28, LOA=26.94, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Herreschoff Rozinante, LOA=28.98, Capsize Ratio=1.34
Herreshoff Double-ended Sloop, LOA=29.58, Capsize Ratio=1.5
Herreshoff Dulcinea, LOA=29.46, Capsize Ratio=1.46
Herreshoff Quiet Tune, LOA=29.52, Capsize Ratio=1.56
Herreshoff Wagon Box, LOA=29.51, Capsize Ratio=1.47
Hinterhoeller 28, LOA=28.33, Capsize Ratio=1.8
Hout Bay 30 Gaff Cutter, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.75
Hoyt 28, LOA=27.5, Capsize Ratio=1.81
Hugues 29 (1972), LOA=28.57, Capsize Ratio=1.75
Hullmaster 27, LOA=27.25, Capsize Ratio=1.9
Hunter 23.5, LOA=7.21, Capsize Ratio=0.92
Hunter 25, LOA=25, Capsize Ratio=1.9
Hunter 30 (early), LOA=30.4, Capsize Ratio=1.89
Hurley 22, LOA=22, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Hurley 30/90, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.77
International 110, LOA=24, Capsize Ratio=1.65
Irwin 25, LOA=25.45, Capsize Ratio=1.82
Irwin 27, LOA=27.08, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Irwin 28, LOA=28.3, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Irwin 30, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Irwin Mk 2, LOA=28.5, Capsize Ratio=1.81
Islander 29 (1969), LOA=29, Capsize Ratio=1.74
Joel White Double-Ender 29 (TR-MANALI), LOA=29.33, Capsize Ratio=1.67
Joel White Double-Ender 29 (see WB 1989), LOA=29.33, Capsize Ratio=1.67
Joker 820, LOA=27, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Kaiser 26, LOA=27.5, Capsize Ratio=1.7
Kaiser 26, LOA=25.6, Capsize Ratio=1.7
Kells 28, LOA=27.6, Capsize Ratio=1.67
Kings Cruiser 28, LOA=28, Capsize Ratio=1.69
Knarr, LOA=30.4, Capsize Ratio=1.53
LM Glasfiber 30, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Lancer 28, LOA=27.75, Capsize Ratio=1.88
Lapworth Gladiator, LOA=24, Capsize Ratio=1.82
Laurent Guiles Vertue, LOA=25, Capsize Ratio=1.35
Laurin 28, LOA=27.36, Capsize Ratio=1.69
Liberty 28, LOA=28, Capsize Ratio=1.69
Long Micro, LOA=19.17, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Luders 16, LOA=26.3, Capsize Ratio=1.56
Luger Southwind, LOA=21, Capsize Ratio=1.47
Luger Voyager 30, LOA=30.5, Capsize Ratio=1.67
MacNaughton Passagemaker, LOA=28.67, Capsize Ratio=1.58
MacNaughton Surprise 18, LOA=17.95, Capsize Ratio=1.66
Macwester 27, LOA=27, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Malo 40 H, LOA=29.53, Capsize Ratio=1.82
Matt Layden Paradox, LOA=13.83, Capsize Ratio=1.44
Mercator 30 Mk II, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.64
MicMac 26 (McVay), LOA=26, Capsize Ratio=1.49
Miura 30, LOA=30.7, Capsize Ratio=1.88
Monark Shanty 27, LOA=26.58, Capsize Ratio=1.68
Morgan 24 1965-68 Keel-CB, LOA=24.5, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Morgan 25 (1976), LOA=24.79, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Morgan 28, LOA=27.01, Capsize Ratio=1.83
Morgan 28 OI, LOA=27.4, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Morgan 30 Centerboarder, LOA=30.24, Capsize Ratio=1.69
Morgan 30 Classic, LOA=29.98, Capsize Ratio=1.72
Morgan 30 OI, LOA=30.56, Capsize Ratio=1.73
Morris 26, LOA=26, Capsize Ratio=1.72
Morris 28, LOA=28, Capsize Ratio=1.81
Morris Leigh 30, LOA=29.67, Capsize Ratio=1.84
NICHOLSON 26, LOA=26.7, Capsize Ratio=1.46
New Horizon, LOA=26.36, Capsize Ratio=1.7
Nicholson 31, LOA=30.7, Capsize Ratio=1.68
Nor' Sea 26 Pilot House, LOA=25.7, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Nor'Sea 26 Pilothouse, LOA=25, Capsize Ratio=1.81
NorSea 27, LOA=27, Capsize Ratio=1.59
Nordica 30, LOA=29.49, Capsize Ratio=1.8
Northern 25 Mk 1&2, LOA=25, Capsize Ratio=1.9
Northern 25 Mk 3, LOA=25.25, Capsize Ratio=1.9
Northern 29, LOA=29, Capsize Ratio=1.86
O'Day 26, LOA=25.9, Capsize Ratio=1.9
ODay 25, LOA=24.75, Capsize Ratio=1.9
ODay 25 C/B, LOA=24.83, Capsize Ratio=1.9
Oday 27, LOA=27, Capsize Ratio=1.89
Orion 27, LOA=27.33, Capsize Ratio=1.72
PARADOXE 100 (Lerouge Design), LOA=29.53, Capsize Ratio=1.63
PARADOXE 80, LOA=22.97, Capsize Ratio=1.32
Paceship Acadian Sloop, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.78
Paceship Eastwind 25, LOA=24.583, Capsize Ratio=1.72
Pacific Dolphin 24, LOA=24.16, Capsize Ratio=1.89
Pacific Seacraft 24, LOA=27.33, Capsize Ratio=1.74
Pacific Seacraft Orion 27, LOA=27.33, Capsize Ratio=1.71
Palmer-Johnson 30, LOA=29.73, Capsize Ratio=1.8
Paradox, LOA=13.78, Capsize Ratio=1.44
Paradoxe 70 (Lerouge Design), LOA=19.69, Capsize Ratio=1.61
Parker Pilot Schooner 28, LOA=27.75, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Parkins Marine H-28, LOA=28.75, Capsize Ratio=1.68
Passage 24, LOA=24.5, Capsize Ratio=1.75
Pearson 28-1 75-82, LOA=29.05, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Pearson 30, LOA=29.8, Capsize Ratio=1.88
Pearson Ariel, LOA=25.6, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Pearson Coaster, LOA=29.83, Capsize Ratio=1.75
Pearson Commander, LOA=25.6, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Pearson Commander, LOA=26.62, Capsize Ratio=1.83
Pearson Renegade 27, LOA=27.167, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Pearson Triton 28, LOA=29.35, Capsize Ratio=1.73
Pearson Wanderer, LOA=30.3, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Precision Seaforth 24, LOA=24, Capsize Ratio=1.83
Rawson 30, LOA=30.6, Capsize Ratio=1.57
Rhodes Meridian, LOA=24.75, Capsize Ratio=1.6
Riptide 31, LOA=30.75, Capsize Ratio=1.64
Roberts 28 - Steel, LOA=27.7083, Capsize Ratio=1.7
Romilly SPV, LOA=22, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Rossiter Pintail (27 F), LOA=26.64, Capsize Ratio=1.57
Sabre 27, LOA=27.04, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Sabre 28, LOA=28.42, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Sabre 28 Series I, LOA=28, Capsize Ratio=1.89
Sabre 28 Series III, LOA=28.5, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Sadler 29, LOA=28.416, Capsize Ratio=1.88
Sagitta 30, LOA=30.02, Capsize Ratio=1.73
Sailmaster 22 Cruiser 1962, LOA=22.08, Capsize Ratio=1.84
Sailmaster 22c, LOA=22, Capsize Ratio=1.57
Sailmaster 26, LOA=26, Capsize Ratio=1.77
Samphire 26, LOA=25.11, Capsize Ratio=1.83
Sea Bird Yawl, LOA=25.6, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Sea Sprite 23, LOA=22.52, Capsize Ratio=1.87
Sea Sprite 27, LOA=27.92, Capsize Ratio=1.8
Sea Sprite 30, LOA=30.66, Capsize Ratio=1.78
Seafarer 23 (1970), LOA=23.19, Capsize Ratio=1.89
Seafarer 31 Yawl, LOA=30.13, Capsize Ratio=1.63
Seafarer Meridian, LOA=24.53, Capsize Ratio=1.63
Seafarer Polaris, LOA=26.3, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Seafarer Ranger, LOA=28.5, Capsize Ratio=1.6
Shannon 28, LOA=28.1, Capsize Ratio=1.81
Shields, LOA=30.3, Capsize Ratio=1.55
Shipman 28, LOA=29.07, Capsize Ratio=1.86
Smiling, LOA=28.54, Capsize Ratio=1.77
South Coast 23, LOA=23, Capsize Ratio=1.87
South Coast One Design (C&N), LOA=25.21, Capsize Ratio=1.35
Southern Cross 28, LOA=28.7, Capsize Ratio=1.67
Sovereign 30, LOA=30.05, Capsize Ratio=1.7
Storfidra, LOA=24.9, Capsize Ratio=1.66
Stuart Knockabout, LOA=28, Capsize Ratio=1.74
Tartan 26, LOA=26, Capsize Ratio=1.85
Tartan 27, LOA=27, Capsize Ratio=1.77
Tartan 27 (Mark Two), LOA=26.96, Capsize Ratio=1.77
Top Hat 25, LOA=25, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Trintella 29, LOA=29, Capsize Ratio=1.6
Tripp 30, LOA=30.3, Capsize Ratio=1.63
Tripp-Lentsch 29, LOA=28.9, Capsize Ratio=1.79
Typhoon, LOA=24.5, Capsize Ratio=1.6
US22, LOA=22, Capsize Ratio=1.89
Vancouver 25, LOA=29, Capsize Ratio=1.74
Vancouver 27, LOA=27, Capsize Ratio=1.65
Vancouver 28, LOA=28.02, Capsize Ratio=1.67
Vertue II, LOA=25.62, Capsize Ratio=1.49
Vineyard Vixen, LOA=29.7, Capsize Ratio=1.66
Voyager 26, LOA=25.75, Capsize Ratio=1.76
Watkins 25, LOA=24.11, Capsize Ratio=1.9
Westerly Centaur 26, LOA=26, Capsize Ratio=1.8
Westsail 28, LOA=28.25, Capsize Ratio=1.61
Whitby 25 (Continental), LOA=25.25, Capsize Ratio=1.64
Wibo 945, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.82
Willard 8-ton Cutter, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.63
Williams 24' Gaff Yawl, LOA=24, Capsize Ratio=1.66
Yankee 28, LOA=27.75, Capsize Ratio=1.82
Yankee 30 MK I, LOA=29.22, Capsize Ratio=1.75
Yankee 30 MK II, LOA=30.04, Capsize Ratio=1.75
Yankee 30 MK III, LOA=30.09, Capsize Ratio=1.67
Zinnia, LOA=30, Capsize Ratio=1.48
(I know, some of this is apples to pancakes comparison, but there is a point here, too, and I could not resist).
The bottom line is that LOA alone is not the deciding factor of either stability or comfort.
I am no expert but in my opinion how your boat is setup has more to do with comfortable single handing than the size. Things like can you raise and lower the main from the cockpit, do you have roller reefing on the jib, is the anchor easy to hoist and stow. How about an autopilot. is there protection from spray and sun, being single keeps you in the cockpit allot.
also for serious cruising i think size does mater some. you have to have stuff when you are on the boat for a long time. I sail a cape dory 27 and it meets my needs in this area but 28 would be nice.
Quote from: Captain Smollett on December 22, 2010, 03:01:13 PM
Quote from: Auspicious on December 22, 2010, 12:50:53 PM
the greater stability of larger hulls.
*big snip*
The bottom line is that LOA alone is not the deciding factor of either stability or comfort.
Dear John,
I agree with your closing statement, however my (sloppy) reference to larger hulls had more to do with dynamic stability than static stability.
Stability at the extremes, such as near capsize, have little to do with comfort.
Quote from: j d on December 22, 2010, 03:54:50 PM
Things like can you raise and lower the main from the cockpit, ...
Which I think is also size related, or more clearly dynamic stability related. When I sail smaller boats going forward or even to the mast can be disconcerting to say the least. The rigging is smaller and harder to hang on to and the boat moves more from my own weight. As boats get larger moving around has less impact. Accordingly I think running lines back to the cockpit makes more sense on smaller boats than on larger. I have no interest in running lines back to the cockpit on my 22,000# 40 but would likely do so on a significantly lighter and shorter boat.
Each of us makes our own choices.
Hi Dave,
My post was a weak attempt at humor, since you are our resident "over forty footer."
Given the premise of this site, many of our members (including me) have butted up against a pervasive assumption that LOA *DOES* determine all that is needed in a cruising boat. I know YOU don't hold that view, but I took a (cheap) shot to needle you a bit.
And my shot was also intended to get to that last statement, which you and I (and others) have discussed many times.
On the subject, I think it is fair to say that you could take two boats of equal LOA, let's say 25 ft, and have VERY different comfort and handling. I'm not directing this at the original poster, but this is what sort-of rankles my feathers a bit whenever I see a "what the best size boat for x" type thread. (The OP's question was very specific and had, I think, more to do with health issues than what we usually talk about with "comfort").
Finally, I do 100% agree with your closing point (each to his own choices), and add to it: the best boat is the one you have.
Fair Winds. ;)
While we, who sail a quite small boat, much prefer going to the mast. Nothing on Tehani is led aft, nor will
it be. I feel you are safer if you are used to working forward, instead of only when something hangs or snarls and you are forced forward. And you WILL have that happen.
Quote from: Captain Smollett on December 23, 2010, 11:08:22 AM
My post was a weak attempt at humor, since you are our resident "over forty footer."
And I appreciate being allowed to continue as a junior member here. I missed the needling - my sense of humor has been AWOL the last few days (I'm juggling the affairs of a friend in hospital and often distracted).
Quote from: Captain Smollett on December 23, 2010, 11:08:22 AMGiven the premise of this site, many of our members (including me) have butted up against a pervasive assumption that LOA *DOES* determine all that is needed in a cruising boat. I know YOU don't hold that view, but I took a (cheap) shot to needle you a bit.
I definitely agree with you. The fact that boat motion characteristics change as boat sizes change doesn't make either extreme better. In fact I know we agree that the best boat for anyone is a very complex function of many many factors.
Quote from: Captain Smollett on December 23, 2010, 11:08:22 AMFinally, I do 100% agree with your closing point (each to his own choices), and add to it: the best boat is the one you have.
Definitely true. I felt the same way about houses when I lived in one.
Quote from: CharlieJ on December 23, 2010, 12:02:55 PM
While we, who sail a quite small boat, much prefer going to the mast. Nothing on Tehani is led aft, nor will
it be. I feel you are safer if you are used to working forward, instead of only when something hangs or snarls and you are forced forward. And you WILL have that happen.
I agree with your safety point. Even as a reasonably good deck scrambler and past foredeck monkey I find the response of lighter boats to the motion of my weight a little disconcerting. I have great respect for your cruising on your boat.
I definitely prefer halyards at the mast. I have six there. *grin*
Funny. I never really notice my little 4,000# boat moving that much when I walk the decks, especially under sail. Although I was hyper aware of the sidewalk like stability of Auspicious. It didn't seem natural. :-)
Quote from: Auspicious on December 23, 2010, 03:09:57 PM
Quote from: CharlieJ on December 23, 2010, 12:02:55 PM
While we, who sail a quite small boat, much prefer going to the mast. Nothing on Tehani is led aft, nor will
it be. I feel you are safer if you are used to working forward, instead of only when something hangs or snarls and you are forced forward. And you WILL have that happen.
I agree with your safety point. Even as a reasonably good deck scrambler and past foredeck monkey I find the response of lighter boats to the motion of my weight a little disconcerting. I have great respect for your cruising on your boat.
I definitely prefer halyards at the mast. I have six there. *grin*
Ditto on that. And we are still awaiting (?) to see someone being able to hndle the pole and chute without going forward ;D ;D
Personally I consider all this talk about the 'safety of not having to go forward as complete bogus.
I do, howver respect that some people feel unsecure going forward, for whatever reason. For me that's 2 different issues.
The first beiing a 'sales proposition' that's like many others aren't quite anchored in facts of reality.
The other, is a complex mix of experience - or lack hereof- psysical agility an perhaps mostly confidence...
just my two cents.
I prefer halyards at the mast for several reasons. Simplicity, less friction = less hard work (I can hoist a main on a boat up to 40 ' a LOT faster if the halyard is NOT led aft. that's SAFETY in my opinion.
I still understand why others might see it differently, but I suspect it to be a case of fooling oneself. With the help from manufacturers, retailers and sailing magz...
Merry X-mas everybody.
Blizzards and tonnes of snow in Europe, we are quite happy in the Sea of Cortez :)
I came upon this thread and an interesting discussion of the motion comfort of various designs...
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/archive/t-20655.html
Including a list of boat designs and their Motion Comfort Ratio (similar to the Capsize Screening Ratios that John has posted) as one method to try to quantify (and compare) this characteristic.
Excerpt from that thread: "Motion Comfort Ratio was developed by Boat Designer Ted Brewer. The formula predicts the speed of the upward and downward motion of the boat as it encounters waves and swells. The faster the motion the more uncomfortable the passengers. Thus, the formula predicts the overall comfort of a boat when it is underway. Higher values denote a more comfortable ride. As the Displacement increases the motion comfort ratio will increase. As the length and beam increases [for a given displacement, I believe he means] the motion comfort ratio will decrease." - Antonio Alcal
RossD, welcome and thanks for your post!
It is informative and does give some hope. Sorry to here about your condition(s) but I'm glad it doesn't stop you.
(ME/CFS is what I have so for me it's more of a fatigue issue than limited mobility.)
Thanks to the rest of you also.
The Motion Comfort ratio is interesting although I find it difficult to relate it to anything familiar.
What I was going for in my original post was (is) if there is a meaningful way to measure the fatigue caused by discomfort as opposed to fatigue due to handling big sails and a heavy boat but maybe this is not possible, or perhaps the line goes somewhere at 25-30 feet?
In some other post I read that the effort for sailhandling doubles when OAL goes from 30 to 35 feet...
Also the comment about IOR-based boats may relate to a statement by Alberg I read somewhere where he said that he designed his boats to sail well without six gorillas hanging over the side ;).
I just got home from a 13-day light-air cold-weather delivery of a Swan 47 from Oxford MD to Virgin Gorda, BVI. I'm exhausted and my back is killing me. That boat is the least comfortable craft I have ever sailed. There is quite literally nowhere to sit that is comfortable.
The experience caused me to reflect on John's early point of comfort=rest. This is nothing to do with boat size and everything to do with ergonomics. I consider myself quite fortunate to have a boat with many comfortable places to sit.
Now where did I put that heating pad?
Reviving an ole thread.....
I've thought about this....lots. Typical 22's simply don't have capacity for enough storage, or much headroom (I said typical...), 30's are better off shore. I truly enjoyed my 27 last winter....she's a 'keeper'....great set of compromises. But I gotta tell you...the difference in every aspect from a 25 to a 27 is huge! Way more hull to clean/wax. Way more bottom paint. Sails are just that much bigger and harder to handle solo. I honestly think that if you are coastal cruising and will only do 1-3 day passages offshore (with great forecasts), that a shallow draft 25 fter is really hard to beat!! Simply that much less boat and less sails to deal with, yet still often standing headroom (or very close to it). Most have shallower draft...which to me is extremely important. (Keys-Bahamas) They generally have acceptable heads as well. Although not enough storage to cross the Pacific ...which wouldn't be in the plan...they have enough to get away for weeks on end. So...if coastal cruising, Florida Keys, Bahamas and even Cuba are in your sights...I think a good 25fter is the easiest to deal with and least exhausting boat to cruise.
:D :D says a 25 footer owner :D
Now, a serious reply :)
I owned and cruised a 35 foot trimaran. Lived aboard full time for 3 years. Was a great boat for a younger guy, with a wife and teenage son aboard. Had lots of help with sails, bottom etc.
Of course, it took 2 1/2 gallons of bottom paint to do that 100 foot ( 3 hulls remember?) of hull. And haulouts were EXPENSIVE!!
Now, I sail a 25. Perfect for me, or me and one other person. Now I will freely admit she isn't large enough to live on full time. If I were gonna live aboard, I'd like something in the 28 foot range.
But for shorter, 2 season use, she's great. One gallon paints two coats on the hull easily, anchors are small enough that a 74 yr old can handle alone, as are sails. The forces are just reasonable. I say 2 season, because it goes back to storage- not enough room for winter clothes, bedding etc, to be stowed. Simply not enough space. The big difference (and Frank alludes to it) is beam. A Pearson Ariel, at 26 feet has an 8 foot beam. Tehani at 25, is a 7 foot beam. HUGE difference in interior space, without a lot of size increase.
Do remember- Eric and Susan Hiscock lived aboard a 30 foot wooden boat, which with framing, was probably close to a 28 inside. And they circumnavigated 2 times on Wanderer II.
AND- Smaller vessels, and longer cruises, are the WHOLE focus of this forum. And after some 10,000 miles aboard Tehani, I'm convinced. And if this blasted rain will let me finish preparing, I'm gone again this coming Saturday. :D
Oh, and I'm gonna be single hand
Good luck on your getaway CJ. Open your "cruising" thread again with "prep pics"
I honestly found the main on the 27 just 'that much bigger' whether reefing or simply folding up to tie down. Just 'that much more' boat to wash n wax...n paint. The beam is 9 1/2...lots of interior and great side decks...but I honestly noticed a difference over the 25 in the 'work' end.
You have a fine and pretty lil ship there CJ. Seaworthy and shallow draft! Gotta love it!
I know that I have that atypical 22' boat. At 6' I have standing headroom in the main cabin and galley area, and good seated headroom in the head. ;D
Without an inboard engine, storage is very good under the cockpit area, as well as under the berths.
Even though she was made for the placid waters of the North Sea, and has only made one Atlantic crossing, I would feel very confident in her abilities to handle the ICW, Florida Keys and Bahamas. ;D
For sails, I can use the pre-made sails for a Catalina 22. With her 2'4" draft, I can access most places that I would like to go.
In a good tidal area, I can let her sit on her twin keels and skeg for cleaning and bottom paint instead of a haul out.
She may not be fast, but no sailboat is compared to a land vehicle or airplane. (A kid on a multi-speed bicycle will go faster than most of the bigger cruising sailboats!) :o
All in all, I think she's the perfect boat for me! ;)
Yep.......it does a LOT of things 'right'
Love the shallow draft! And standing in a 22 is SO rare!
Small sails, beach to scrub the bottom....hard to beat!
Since I started this thread I have made my choice and got what I think is a good compromise for me and what "I" want to do with it.
A 27', 4 ton displacement, inboard diesel, long keeled, oceangoing boat with reasonably shallow draft without standing headroom!
Swedish boats are traditionally sleek cruisers with beautiful lines meant for sailing in the archipelago and to be moored to shore over night.
Since you got to step ashore every day there was no need for standing headroom and when the Vega was built with this feature it was considered so ugly that no real sailor would go near it. That is the reason why Norlin designed my boat a couple of inches shy of standing headroom. He didn't dare challenge the norm so that is the greatest drawback that I will have to live with or possibly fix.
I did look at British boats that almost all have standing headroom as they are made for the open coasts and staying aboard. I even looked at the Nomad but British boats are still expensive compared to used, Swedish boats and there are few to be found this side of the north sea so I was forced to rule them out.
Other than that I am refitting her to suit my slightly disabled needs with tiller pilot, VHF-radio and AIS-transponder which gives the need for a chart plotter and consequently a large capacity battery bank.
Sometimes I feel I may be straying from the KISS-principle but I don't think so because I am going for safety and functionality, not luxury.
The Vega is a very fine boat!!
I've been aboard one...nice below as well.
There is an old way to judge head room...
"how hard is it to change your pants?"
While not 'quite' full standing head room....still darn easy on your Vega ;)
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the Vega, as "less traditional" sailing families found as it became the third most serial produced boat in Sweden. I was just stating the reason why almost no Swedish designs under 30 feet have standing headroom while many American and British designs of 25 feet or even less often do.
The biggest problem I have found is that when you keep your head tilted slightly forward it is inevitable, when going forward, to bang it against the mast support beam which on my boat is reinforced with stainless steel. I have to fix that...
Three cheers for the Vega!! I've got one too. She sails like a dream.
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9BOUFr0TwxnandZUEdOUHBGR3M/view?usp=sharing)
The Vega was on my short list but for some reason i chose differently. However my boat and Bubbas are very similar in size, length, speed (they have the exact same LYS number http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LYS_%28sailing%29 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LYS_%28sailing%29)) and cost about the same in equal used condition so comfort wise - did I make the right choice or not? :)
The main difference is displacement and beam and according to Ted Brewers Comfort Ratio beam is negative but displacement is positive for comfort. Does anyone know how to crunch the numbers?
Next, I have put my 100 kg battery bank beneath the starboard bunk about amidships and to counter that a 100 liter water sack on the opposite side, also amidships. Now centering the weight amidships will let the bow and stern "ride the waves" better but will this lead to more discomfort than having the weight in the bow and stern?
Also, Frank says "get the biggest anchor you can handle" so what size anchor can a person reasonably handle manually without a windlass (with some length of chain)? Is a 40 lbs anchor to much?
40 pounds!!! I anchored my 35 foot trimaran all over with a 35 pounder.
Tehani carries a 22 pound Bruce clone, with 75 feet of 1/4 G4 chain and in close to 10,000 miles has failed to set once, in a spot where the books told us it wouldn't. And has never dragged
And the newer gen anchors just may be even better.
I'd bet a 25 pound anchor along with 75- 100 feet of chain, would do you well
22ln delta, 1/4 chain on my 27.....never dragged. 40 is overkill....unless you're on steroids :o
Well, I am looking at a Rocna and the sizing guide says 22 lbs so one step up is 33 and two steps is 44.
http://www.rocna.com/product-range/sizing-guide (http://www.rocna.com/product-range/sizing-guide)
I'm sure I have read on this forum that you should look at the sizing guide and then go up a step or even two... :)
Maybe the anchor manufacturers have read that to and have adjusted their recommendations accordingly?
So is a 22 lb Rocna with 10' of 1/4" chain enough overkill for my 4,5 tons (fully loaded)?
here goes that darn anchor talk ;)
kinda like politics n religion..... everyone has an opinion.
My 2 cents.... about all my opinion is worth...
At 4.5 tons..your boat is heavier than mine or CJ's. I "think" a 33 with 50' chain would be more than fine.
Probably get by with the 22....but you'd feel safer with the 33.
A 44 with chain is really heavy to handle.
Quote from: Frank on April 21, 2015, 08:51:10 PM
Probably get by with the 22....but you'd feel safer with the 33.
A 44 with chain is really heavy to handle.
Got THAT right, especially with no windlass. And think of chain weight, in say 25 feet of water. And yeah, sometimes we DO anchor deep.
And Frank, your opinion is well worth heeding- you've been "out there"
Sorry to bring up a sensitive topic but I will take Franks advice and go for 33 lbs with 50' chain so there is no need to bring out the flame throwers.
Also that means that your advice is worth at least the cost of a new anchor.
About the "Ted Brewers Comfort Ratio" I found the formula and did the math.
The Vega has a CR of 20.29 and the Allegro has 26.03.
If we add 500kg of load to both we get 22.29 for the Vega and 27.77 for the Allegro.
This shows that displacement is the big factor and that I made the right choice for what I want and need.
I am still interested in your opinions about centering the weight amidships as opposed to for and aft?
;)
No flames from me
:)
Sounds like a good choice.
I do think your 500 KG MIGHT be low once all is aboard ;D ;D I figure Tehani at 2000 pounds full cruising load, added to her 5300 pound displacement - anchors(3) with rodes, fuel, water, stores, tools, ME. That's why the water line got moved up:D :D